which product can I use to get rid of the rust on my rigging?

People hunt down main ingredients, purchase the raw on its own and see if that works just as well. I believe that the closest thing to Oxalic in Spotless Stainless is Citric acid at 17%.

In some cases, this hunting down of raw brings to light those such as Oxalic acid, which anyone who's used it correctly and in the right application (such as removing tannin from a stained gel coat waterline) will find it works very well. It, of course, has many other uses where abrasion cant take place, such as removing rust stains from fabric.

Having used both oxalic (raw) and Spotless Stainless on stainless steel one thing that stood out was the durability of Spotless Stainless.

Using oxalic the stainless returned the same iron oxide quite quickly, in fact, it had returned worse than before.


So, what does Spotless Stainless do that Oxalic won't?


  • Spotless Stainless removes the rust (iron oxide) and surface iron that causes rust.
  • After rinsing away Spotless Stainless™ an oxidation process begins with the exposed chromium in the stainless steel to form Chromium Oxide.
  • Chromium oxide is what protects stainless steel and makes stainless steel stain less.




The above doesn't broadcast what other ingredients are at work to perform this protective function, I don't blame them, someone's life study, hard work and business are at stake.

Considering Spotless Stainless works incredibly well at what it was designed to do, I hardly see £20 - £25 as expensive, I see it as cost-effective if it gets the job done right the first time and offers decent durability in an easy brush on - wash off process.
 
Marine Reflections said:
People hunt down main ingredients, purchase the raw on its own and see if that works just as well. I believe that the closest thing to Oxalic in Spotless Stainless is Citric acid at 17%.

In some cases, this hunting down of raw brings to light those such as Oxalic acid, which anyone who's used it correctly and in the right application (such as removing tannin from a stained gel coat waterline) will find it works very well. It, of course, has many other uses where abrasion cant take place, such as removing rust stains from fabric.

Having used both oxalic (raw) and Spotless Stainless on stainless steel one thing that stood out was the durability of Spotless Stainless.

Using oxalic the stainless returned the same iron oxide quite quickly, in fact, it had returned worse than before.


So, what does Spotless Stainless do that Oxalic won't?


  • Spotless Stainless removes the rust (iron oxide) and surface iron that causes rust.
  • After rinsing away Spotless Stainless™ an oxidation process begins with the exposed chromium in the stainless steel to form Chromium Oxide.
  • Chromium oxide is what protects stainless steel and makes stainless steel stain less.




The above doesn't broadcast what other ingredients are at work to perform this protective function, I don't blame them, someone's life study, hard work and business are at stake.

Considering Spotless Stainless works incredibly well at what it was designed to do, I hardly see £20 - £25 as expensive, I see it as cost-effective if it gets the job done right the first time and offers decent durability in an easy brush on - wash off process.
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No doubt it's great for making non-structural things look pretty, but anything that 'removes surface iron' sounds like a risk of promoting crevice corrosion until guaranteed other wise in my book.
 
lw395 said:
No doubt it's great for making non-structural things look pretty, but anything that 'removes surface iron' sounds like a risk of promoting crevice corrosion until guaranteed other wise in my book.
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You may be onto something there, but perhaps the other way around.

Perhaps the oxidating of the chromium and restoration of the Chromium Oxide layer prevents crevice corrosion where simple Oxalic acid does not provide this process and allows crevice corrosion?
 
Stainless mostly relies on oxygen in air or dissolved in water to prevent corrosion. It can corrode very quickly in the absence of oxygen. I would be very cautious about using any acid or other strong chemical on things like swaged wire rope where there are crevices. It's not my field, but witout consulting a man who really knows, I'll stick to physical polishing.
 
Two things spring to mind here.1.ask for some proof that the rigging supplied was indeed the correct grade.2.whats going on with other boats in the yard.

My rigging is not rusting nor are most people's. It just does not make sense.

I'd consider moving. Putting loads of chemicals on may well effect the lifespan of your rigging.

Big if. But if you have been supplied with rigging that is of an inferior grade I know what I'd do. You need some proof from the supplier it's a correct grade. I'm sure he has invoices and would be more than happy to show you.
Steveeasy
 
Not many people recommending Oxalic here. I use it all the time to remove rust stains. Any reason oxalic acid shouldn't be used on rigging?
 
The cause of rusty appearance on rigging wire is usually a problem with lubrication of the die during the drawing process. Micro cracks are created that subsequently develop very small crevice corrosion cells. Polishing is the first line of prevention because it simultaneously removes the rusty deposits and tends to remove the micro crevices.

A chemical method may remove the unsightly red marks but will do nothing to address the cause. It may also cause unseen damage in the lay of the wire rope.
 
vyv_cox said:
The cause of rusty appearance on rigging wire is usually a problem with lubrication of the die during the drawing process. Micro cracks are created that subsequently develop very small crevice corrosion cells. Polishing is the first line of prevention because it simultaneously removes the rusty deposits and tends to remove the micro crevices.

A chemical method may remove the unsightly red marks but will do nothing to address the cause. It may also cause unseen damage in the lay of the wire rope.
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That’s interesting, thank you.
So im guessing that the grade wouldn’t make a difference if there wasn’t sufficient lubrication in the drawing?

The iron oxide on the turnbuckles etc could be just from the wires leaching iron out?

Would the rigging be fit for the bin in this case, or would polishing the outside of the cable help?

Would some photos from the OP help diagnose if this is indeed caused by manufacturing process or contamination?
 
Could I offer the suggestion that you use pure lemon juice diluted if you wish, I use this very often when I burn food in our stainless saucepans from time to time. The result is a spotless finish almost to satin that can be just washed off with fresh water - no scouring required. Try using on the turnbuckles first in pure or diluted form.

ianat182
 
If the AlexLago's boat is the only one in the yard with this problem then it seems there must be something wrong with the rigging he has bought.

If other boats have the same problem then whoever caused it is at fault.

Either way, why should he have to correct the problem?
 
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Unless it is caused by mild steel dust in the air, rust spots on nearly new rigging indicate the riggers used cheap Korean 'stainless' steel wire. This grade will rapidly rust inside the swages, and strands start to break after about 2 years.

On the other hand if there are rust spots on the stainless rigging screws as well, it could mean there is metal dust in the air, or was at the time the rigging was fitted. This can be caused by using an angle grinder to cut the shroud to length on the boat - mild steel embedded in the grinder disc turns into airborne dust.

Mind you they shouldn't be using stainless rigging screws at 8mm wire diameter or above, it needs bronze screws - SS screws under that kind of loading can gall (cold weld) and lock up solid. Best not to use them over 6mm wire size.
 
cant add to the rigging debate except that the OP could try to determine if the rust is in both wire and fittings or just 'leaking' onto the fittings if the source can be established then he can focus attention/solution on sorting it. Very worring though.
I was interested in the Stainless Solution /oxalyic acid debate as my 40 odd year old stantions need constant attention, they have a lot of small pin prick crevices and rust spots develop quickly. I just polish them away with an abrasive polish. I do notice that some struts appear to have a better polished finish and do not suffer as badly. I wonder now if I should be cleaning with a chemical cleaner in order to ( perhaps) get at the rust in those crevices. Possibly the abrasive cleaners are not removing existing rust in the crevices and the stains from there become visible quickly again?
Additionally the chemical cleaner might get at the places where I have difficulty getting at with abrasive polish.
I might give the Stainless Solution stuff a go.
 
Have experienced similar with stainless over the years, it is often contamination, not in the boat yard but more often than not the tooling used by the manufacturer is also used on non stainless, dust and other particles are then transferred onto the surface of your new stainless producing lovely rust!
 
A question for Vyv Cox really - would you be concerned about Hydrogen embrittlement if you saw acid being used on rigging wire and fittings? I've always avoided using acids on any structural steel parts since I became aware of it.
 
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Originally Posted by Poignard
Is that not oxalic acid?

Marine Reflections said:
No.
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I think you are saying " yes, it is oxalic acid!!"
 
Keith 66 said:
If someone has been grinding steel nearby you would have rust pocks all over your deck & windows.
The only other possible explanation is that your rigging has been made from ordinary commercial grade stainless 304 or A2 grade instead of marine 316 (A4 grade).
It sounds like the rigging manufacturer was cutting corners or seeking to maximise profit as the marine grade is more expensive.
Proving which grade it is will be more difficult but it sounds like you have been striped up.
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In their website the manufacturer says that all their cables are made out of aisi316 stainless steel (aka a4 steel or marine grade)
so unless, they are blatantly and "officially" lying, I don't think the issue is there...
 
vyv_cox said:
Polish it. The cause is micro crevice corrosion. Polishing removes the deposits and will ultimately remove the crevices.
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thank you for the answer, but how is it possible to efficiently polish a cable in order to prevent crevice corrosion??? I mean each cable is 15 metres long, and is made of 19 strands...which means as many interstices over 15m which can withhold rust....
 
alexlago said:
thank you for the answer, but how is it possible to efficiently polish a cable in order to prevent crevice corrosion??? I mean each cable is 15 metres long, and is made of 19 strands...which means as many interstices over 15m which can withhold rust....
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Friend had new rigging, similar situation, but single wires going rusty through the twists. He went back to the supplier, they exchanged without question. They thought the issue was the same as Vyv has said. The dies contaminated when they drew the wire. I am puzzled as to why the turn buckles are stainless.
 
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