Which liquid metal

PabloPicasso

PabloPicasso

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It seems a liquid metal type product would cure an engine water leak from a difficult to access casting plug. It's just a tiny ooze rather than gushing. I intend to repair properly when the engine comes out for a sail drive diaphragm replacement.

Any recommended type or brand of liquid metal that will sustain enge type temperatures?
 
PabloPicasso said:
It seems a liquid metal type product would cure an engine water leak from a difficult to access casting plug. It's just a tiny ooze rather than gushing. I intend to repair properly when the engine comes out for a sail drive diaphragm replacement.

Any recommended type or brand of liquid metal that will sustain enge type temperatures?
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You'll need to get it nice and clean, then "Chemical Metal" will do the job.

http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802657107969
 
Do you mean the sort of stuff you add as a liquid to coolant to stop a leak? If so I've had great success on vehicle engines with K-seal. Great stuff.
 
I use Tec2000 products.

Whilst I sold my garage 8 years ago, every Tec2000 product did what it said on the tin, mostly much to my astonishment!!

The coolant sealer is in my old Volvo TAMD40b, and works all year, until it's dormant. Then I pump the coolant back into the motor and its fine for the rest of the season.

Cheaper than fixing a very small leak...
 
Think about keying the surface. Might not be essential with a small ooze, but anything larger needs (benefits from) some help.
If the area is in a corner then scratching the surfaces will do. If its on a flat, however I would drill and squeeze the liquid metal in so it forms a head on the inside.
If it is a crack, you might want to consider stopping it spreading by drilling the ends so no sharp edge to propagate the crack.

As has been recommended, Chemical Metal is my choice too. I had complete success with a 3 inch long by 1/4 inch wide crack in the water jacket of a 4 litre digger engine (no anti-freeze, oops)
 
Unfortunately, the surfaces you need to clean/key are inaccessible. The only way to do it is to remove the plug which you say is inaccessible. You could try some Captain Tolley's.
 
ghostlymoron said:
Unfortunately, the surfaces you need to clean/key are inaccessible. The only way to do it is to remove the plug which you say is inaccessible. You could try some Captain Tolley's.
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Tolleys might well work.

If you can clean up the plug and the area around it with solvent (and roughen with sandpaper a bit if possible) and they slap a large disk of Milliput over the plug and the surrounding casing, that should do it. :)

Richard
 
PabloPicasso said:
It seems a liquid metal type product would cure an engine water leak from a difficult to access casting plug. It's just a tiny ooze rather than gushing. I intend to repair properly when the engine comes out for a sail drive diaphragm replacement.

Any recommended type or brand of liquid metal that will sustain enge type temperatures?
Click to expand...

Depends on its shape but I have had great past success with silicone sealant reinforced with a bandage of linen. Had a repair like that on the output pipe of my CH boiler for 6 years and it never leaked a drop.
 
Will captain trolleys creeping crack cure work on an engine leak? I thought it was for deck leaks. But what do I know. I've never used it
 
PabloPicasso said:
Will captain trolleys creeping crack cure work on an engine leak? I thought it was for deck leaks. But what do I know. I've never used it
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I used it to cure a leak on a car body. I don't see why it wouldn't work on an engine core plug if it doesn't get too hot, which a direct cooled engine usually doesn't. Worth a try.
 
parsifal said:
I used it to cure a leak on a car body. I don't see why it wouldn't work on an engine core plug if it doesn't get too hot, which a direct cooled engine usually doesn't. Worth a try.
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What's the temp range for captaintolley?

(Edit) seems 27*C is the max. I expect my direct cooled engine to get hotter than that. Likely 65C given as that is when the thermostat opens
 
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Do you think that chemical metal would seal holes in a mast OK? Rivet/screw holes etc from old fittings. I'm refurbishing my mast soon and was going to hire a tig welder to fill them but this seems a good alternative.
 
Tammany said:
Do you think that chemical metal would seal holes in a mast OK? Rivet/screw holes etc from old fittings. I'm refurbishing my mast soon and was going to hire a tig welder to fill them but this seems a good alternative.
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I can't see why not, and you wouldn't have to worry about the heat from welding work hardening your mast
 
I hadn't thought about heat causing issues with hardening. I've got some big boy filler which is the same as the op mentioned. Basically grp filler with aluminium filings in it. I will give it a go.
 
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