Which Glue for Teak to GRP

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Gypsyjoss

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Hello Sailors

I want to glue the teak slats down in the cockpit area of my Sadler 32. I have been recommended Sikaflex 298. But this is about £24 per 600cc tube and I need about 10 of them!

New glues come out regularly, so is there anything on the market at half the price to do the same job, please? It needs to be flexible, so can't be epoxy based and will have to withstand -5 to +40 degC and direct sunlight.

Cheers

Pete
 
The alternative is SabaDeck which is similar formulation and if you buy from Marineware in Southampton (the importer) you will get a bulk discount for that sort of quantity (12 sausages is the break and you will need caulking as well) Invest in the proper gun as it makes life so much easier. Do not be tempted to use anything else. This and the Sika are the best and you only want to do the job once!
 
Hi, I would estimate that the sole area of your boat is about the same as mine. John Morris of this parish will hopefully be along soon to tell you roughly how much he used to glue my teak down. 10 sausages seems a lot just to stick it down but if you also have seats to do and you are including caulking then it may be right. John used Sabadeck but I understand there may be a supply problem with the caulking having been withdrawn, John will be able to confirm. Just drop him a PM.

Yoda
 
Use separate products for glue down and caulk imho. I've always used Sika though I'd expect the toolstation stuff above might be perfectly good

Steer well clear of Saba as a caulk imho. Saba adhesives are ok. I had an 80 foot boat caulked in Saba (2011) and it was terrible. Deck was made and caulked in panels by the well know Wattsons in Kettering. The Saba caulk melted due to either sun (Med) or ordinary cleaning products. Stand in one place and you have black lines on soles of your feet. Walk around and you then have black lines printed all over your decks. I sold that boat and specced TDS440 caulk on the next one which is outstanding (Royal Huisman use it) but a friend of mine owns a sistership and had his melty Saba caulk all removed under warranty and replaced with another brand. Take care choosing caulk anyway, because there is a lot of labour effort here obviously. I'd use Sika for the adhesive and TDS440 caulk
 
Following this thread with interest as we are about to replace all the teak in our cockpit and raised forward coachroof area, about 85ft2. We plan to use epoxy to bed the teak and a suitable caulking to finish. We are using 3/4 inch thick teak so I don't believe we need any flexibility. The grp we are gluing to is also very solid so don't expect any movement. We are following Sika guidelines for the rebate dimensions between planks so nothing unusual there.
 
Tranona said:
The alternative is SabaDeck which is similar formulation and if you buy from Marineware in Southampton (the importer) you will get a bulk discount for that sort of quantity (12 sausages is the break and you will need caulking as well) Invest in the proper gun as it makes life so much easier. Do not be tempted to use anything else. This and the Sika are the best and you only want to do the job once!
Click to expand...

On the basis the KJ Howells in Poole no longer use Saba I wouldn't.
 
geem said:
Following this thread with interest as we are about to replace all the teak in our cockpit and raised forward coachroof area, about 85ft2. We plan to use epoxy to bed the teak and a suitable caulking to finish. We are using 3/4 inch thick teak so I don't believe we need any flexibility. The grp we are gluing to is also very solid so don't expect any movement. We are following Sika guidelines for the rebate dimensions between planks so nothing unusual there.
Click to expand...

Even if your substrate is stable, the teak will not be. OK to use epoxy if you are fitting veneers, but would suggest 3/4 thick teak will move and you need the flexibility of a polyurethane adhesive.
 
Tranona said:
Even if your substrate is stable, the teak will not be. OK to use epoxy if you are fitting veneers, but would suggest 3/4 thick teak will move and you need the flexibility of a polyurethane adhesive.
Click to expand...

I hadn't thought of this when I used epoxy to sick a teak plate to my foredeck to mount my new bow roller on. That was 12 months ago and no problms so far but I'm watching it closely. The teak is 25mm thick and the epoxied section is about 4 inches by 8 inches. (The whole lot is through bolted with a substantial backing plate so the 'stickiness' of the epoxy is not really needed but nothign else seemed likely to form a waterproof seal.)
 
Tranona said:
Even if your substrate is stable, the teak will not be. OK to use epoxy if you are fitting veneers, but would suggest 3/4 thick teak will move and you need the flexibility of a polyurethane adhesive.
Click to expand...

We are only doing relatively small areas of teak. The main deck will be two layers of glass cloth and awlgrip,paint. The cockpit floor, seats and raised coachroof we be new teak. The largest teak deck company in the world use a 1:1 epoxy to fix their decks. We plan to do the same. See http://www.teakdecking.com/
We are caulking the deck to allow movement in the upper surface but the teak will be fixed rigidly to the deck with epoxy.
If somebody can give a good reason why this won't work I can be persuaded to change the fixing method
 
I have just been trawling manufacturers websites. Gerit say this;
'On production grp or metal hulls a flexible elastomer adhesive sealant such as ‘Sikaflex’ or 'Saba' is sometimes used instead of epoxy adhesive to bond the teak directly to the grp substrate and the same product is used to lay the seams. Being apparently no less effective than using the more rigid adhesive technique it may be more convenient for manufacturers, since the preparation is far less intensive'.
I think we will go with the 1:1 epoxy since we can get it here in Caribbean for half the price of West Epoxy. We have 24 gallons of it to do the grp deck anyway
 
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