Which gasket sealant for Yanmar

This man has the griff on gasket making:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NDOcR592-Fw&list=PLD18277896F0BC1C6&index=16

Cornflake packets also work very well, a thin layer of your goo would do no harm. If it keeps oil in a ald British bike, all else is easy, inc jet engines.

No doubt cornflake packets would do ok as a gasket but the material might be a bit thick on a waterpump as it might leave too much space between the impellor and the pump face. The genuine article is made of very thin paper.
 
I said not, but couldn't find the relevant notes in my workshop practise books. I've never quenched copper, or at least not often enough to remember. I used the method mentioned on the copper washers on my fuel system last year and it worked OK. Others seem to have agreed with me in this thread. If I was badly wrong, I"m sure Viv would have mentioned it.....
 
I said not, but couldn't find the relevant notes in my workshop practise books. I've never quenched copper, or at least not often enough to remember. I used the method mentioned on the copper washers on my fuel system last year and it worked OK. Others seem to have agreed with me in this thread. If I was badly wrong, I"m sure Vyv would have mentioned it.....

I think that in the case of copper, and probably most single element metals, heating to red heat is recrystallising it, which removes all the slip bands caused by deformation. It then doesn't matter if cooling is fast or slow because there is only one possible phase. Completely different for multi-phase alloys, of course.
 
The advantage of the quench is that it helps remove scale.

This was common practice in the Secondary Schools of the late Middle Ages when scholars used to throw the hot copper into acid pickle. This saved the tedious wait for the metal to be cleaned and only carried a moderate Health and Safety overhead, which we bore with dignity.

Mind you the front of our school jumpers looked like Chantilly lace.
 
This was common practice in the Secondary Schools of the late Middle Ages when scholars used to throw the hot copper into acid pickle.

I'd been wondering where I got the idea from - so I've just wasted loads of time over last 50 odd years..... :(

Many thanks to you, vyv and topcat :)

(smacks back of hand and sulks out)
 
Wouldn't you quench copper in cold water (ie rapid cool) to anneal? :confused:
This will harden it or depending on the purity tend to harden it- counterproductive for a "soft" mouldable gasket.
Air drying as mentioned ( once again depending on purity- 99.8% Cu ) will recrytalise and - end up with a softer more mouldable gasket .
 
And no doubt Threebond pay handsomely for the privilege! If it's the same as automotive oil recommendations, the manufacturers first have to satisfy any technical specification. They then negotiate the terms under which they might be recommended, e.g. in workshop manuals, owners' manuals, on the filler cap, etc. Everything has its price.

Hylomar Blue is undoubtedly one of the premier products in this area but for a thermosata housing almost anything stocked by a local car parts shop will do. My preference would be to cut a new gasket and not use any sealant.

When will people listen to Tinkicker's practical voice of experience when it comes to engine re-building, he rebuilds more engines in a month than the rest of the forum will do in a lifetime.

Threebond is not cheap however it is recognised by the industry as the very best silicone sealant, Japanese engines have long been noted for building 'dry' engines this material is the key.

Cummins adopted Threebond in the early 80's for production and service following work with Komatsu regarding gasket free jointing compounds. Conventional silicone sealants do not bear comparison with Threebond.

The suggestion that Hylomar Blue is a premium product is a complete joke.....Rolls Royce Eagle 800 diesel engine, assembled with Hylomar always leaked oil out of front cover and pan rail interface. Perkins re-worked the design and made the Eagle TX a 'dry' engine by eliminating Rolls Royce outdated sealing practices by using guess what, Threebond.

Having been brought up with Gardner, Leyland and Rolls Royce crummy old leak boxes, all the talk of annealed copper and Cornflake packets rings so true.
 
This will harden it or depending on the purity tend to harden it- counterproductive for a "soft" mouldable gasket.

By what metallurgical process? When I made a copper bowl in metalwork many years ago we were taught to remove the effects of work hardening by heating and quenching. That was simply to save time waiting for it to cool down again - it is just as effective to let it cool in air. The same applies to 70/30 brass. See http://www.woodwindcourse.co.uk/user/image/brass
 
Thermostat housing gasket goo !!

I think that we need to look back at the origins of this enquiry. It was asking about a thermostat housing leak.
A low pressure water housing, that is not that hot either, should not require anything sophisticated to create a seal unless the faces of the joint are damaged or distorted. In such a case the faces should be adjusted to make true.

It is normal practice in industry to fit dry joints to good flanges.
Metal to metal is the norm for very high temperature and pressure Steam Turbine main casing joints where a seal is formed by the intimate contact of the two half-joint faces and this is for one ton per square inch steam pressure and 550 centigrade.

So to apply goo can be judged as a bit of a bodge, but in practice it is used as a cost effective sealing mechanism where light weight casings and perfection of face/surface of mating joints is not cheaply obtained. Temperature distortion can also be accommodated by goo in joints !
 
By what metallurgical process? When I made a copper bowl in metalwork many years ago we were taught to remove the effects of work hardening by heating and quenching. That was simply to save time waiting for it to cool down again - it is just as effective to let it cool in air. The same applies to 70/30 brass. See http://www.woodwindcourse.co.uk/user/image/brass

Here is the ans - and process name
A Metallografic study of the homogeneization quenching of copper

A. Čížek, F. Pařízek, P. Michalička, A. Orlová
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Abstract
During homogeneization quenching the dislocation density in copper grows up to saturation and the dislocation structure becomes stabilized. This process is realized on quenching into gases and liquids, i.e. at both lower and higher quenching rates. Grain growth is also observed. The dislocation structure formed by cold-working is removed by annealing at temperatures near to the melting point in a time interval shorter than 30 minutes and the dislocation density reaches a stable value, growing with decreasing thickness of the specimen.
 
I think that we need to look back at the origins of this enquiry. It was asking about a thermostat housing leak.
A low pressure water housing, that is not that hot either, should not require anything sophisticated to create a seal unless the faces of the joint are damaged or distorted. In such a case the faces should be adjusted to make true.

It is normal practice in industry to fit dry joints to good flanges.
Metal to metal is the norm for very high temperature and pressure Steam Turbine main casing joints where a seal is formed by the intimate contact of the two half-joint faces and this is for one ton per square inch steam pressure and 550 centigrade.

So to apply goo can be judged as a bit of a bodge, but in practice it is used as a cost effective sealing mechanism where light weight casings and perfection of face/surface of mating joints is not cheaply obtained. Temperature distortion can also be accommodated by goo in joints !

I avoided steam ships like the plague, steam leaks terrified me. Stuck with products built by Doxford and North Eastern Marine which leaked everywhere but were benign, difference was steam turbine men went ashore whilst motor men stayed on board pulling units.

Having made the transition to a U.S diesel engine manufacturer I learned all about mechanisims which produce 'dry' engines.

I have huge respect for Yanmar's own engines and it was suggested by a poster who had consulted the correct manual that the joint in question required Threebond. Gasket or Threebond whatever the manual requires, does not require our added wisdom.
 
THREEBOND Gasket Goo

From Manufactures site

1215 is a silicon based sealant === It is ideal for anyone with flanges to seal against water or oil in general engineering, power plants, power transmission, marine engines, gearboxes or agricultural equipment. TB1215 is also used extensively in high-tech, high-quality applications within the motorcycle or car performance aftermarkets and motorsport sectors.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

FROM Ebay:
Three Bond Liquid Gasket 1104 (grey). OEM approved liquid gasket formula which forms an elastic, reliable gasket seal.
It is resistant to damaging fluids, chemicals, heat, pressure and impact.

ThreeBond's excellent padding properties make this semi-drying, visco-elastic sealer the perfect product for sealing joint surfaces with large clearances.
Special synthetic rubber provides excellent cushion to absorb vibrations and impacts without failure, especially where coolants are involved.
Apply to flange surfaces and screw sections to prevent leakage of water, oil, gasoline, and chemicals.


1184 is the 1104 replacement (no lead content) ==== Used to be sold as 1194

THREEBOND 1104 , grey in colour (as aluminium), this sealer has the same properties as 1104 but has no LEAD in it, as this now contravenes health and safety. Still very tough and flexible. It is the first choice for all your metal to metal joints
THREEBOND (1194) is semi hardening gasket elastomer sealer which is unlike silicon because it dose not fall off inside the engine and cause blockages or oil circulation problems.


Its all on the net is you search !!
 
Heat it to 'cherry'! This takes me back to my youth with a Matchless 350 single. The manual said to quench in oil, but maybe they were just passing on military hoodoo. Happy New Year Tom. I hope the Nich still sails well

If you're going to use copper, you must stamp the holes with hollow punches. Once you've done this and cut the shape, anneal the copper before fitting by heating it to red heat and allowing to cool. I don't recommend quenching but I can't find the relevant chapter in my handy workshop practice handbooks so I've not been able to remember why.

Many head gaskets are made from some type of fibrous material like cardboard (but definitely NOT real Cardboard). I've used them on my Morris Minor when the copper composite gaskets have been unobtainable. This material can be worked as described in the u-tube clip but I don't have a source. Perhaps Viv Cox may know the stuff as he's more current than I.

This looks like the stuff http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HEAD-GASKET-AND-MANIFOLD-MATERIAL-A4-SHEET-SIZE-X-2-/230701954075

No connection though
 
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Heat it to 'cherry'! This takes me back to my youth with a Matchless 350 single. The manual said to quench in oil, but maybe they were just passing on military hoodoo. Happy New Year Tom. I hope the Nich still sails well
Oil quenching was part of the hardening and tempering of steel. The idea was to get extra carbon into the surface of the metal. Never used on Copper or Brass, at least not when I did my apprenticeship.

She sails better than ever now I've got a parasail. Lots of jobs to do this winter tho'. Yours?

Happy New Year to you, too.
 
Doesn't matter. I haven't had the bike for 35 years so even I can't muck it up. I think I've still got the manual in the loft. One of Plumstead's finest.

Parasail, eh? Any pictures?
 
The problem is I have many partial pictures but not a camera with a wide enough angle lens to take any myself when on board. During the "J" class regatta in the Solent this year, a woman in a speedboat took a series of snaps of Snark under Parasail, but I"ve not been able to find anything on a website anywhere to buy a copy.

It's a fantastic downwind sail and far easier to set and recover than my Spinney (which used to frighten me ****less whenever I flew it shorthanded; I never did fly it solo.

SeaTeach have a video on their website, it you're interested. Or you could come for a sail if you're ever down here.
 
Heat it to 'cherry'! This takes me back to my youth with a Matchless 350 single. The manual said to quench in oil, but maybe they were just passing on military hoodoo. Happy New Year Tom. I hope the Nich still sails well

Oil quenching is a more gentle process than water quenching. It is particularly useful for small sections to reduce distortion and quench cracking.
 
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