Which engine oil?

FlyingDutchman said:
I have still got the can of the Volvo oil I use in my MD22A.
On the can are the following indications:

Volvo Penta diesel engine oil
VDS-2 15W40
ACEA E3
API CG4

Maybe this helps to clarify?
Click to expand...

As someone (Vyv?) already hinted, VP just keep upgrading their oil and recommending it across all their engines regardless of age.
The manual for my 2002 called for CD.
Early manuals for the 2020 call for CD.
Later manuals for the 2020 suddenly show the same engine needing a higher grade oil - CG4.
Ditto the gearbox.

The manual on VPs website for the MD22 calls for CC or CD - and says CD not recommended for the first 20-40 hours of operation (i.e. while it's bedding in).
15/40 for -10 to +50 deg
20/50 for -5 to +50 deg

So now selling CG4 for it is just a matter of VP's convenience, I suggest.
And for most people, 15/40 or 20/50 doesn't matter much!
 
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Leif-J said:
With the risk of further heating the discussion: I own a 3GM30F from 1994, gone 1500 hours. Spex says API CD, 15W40.
I have actually found an API CD oil, but viscosity is 20W50. Assume this difference is of minor importance. Am I completely ignorant?:confused:
Click to expand...

In the past it was customary to go to a higher viscosity in cars when they were suffering the effects of wear, e.g. higher oil consumption, lower oil pressure, knocking and rattling. In an engine that has only done 1500 hours the effects might be-
More difficult to start, as the engine will be more reluctant to turn over, especially in winter.
Slower circulation of the oil when cold, so maybe more cam, tappet and bore wear
Perhaps reduced supply of oil due to increased differential pressure across the filter.

None of these is going to be massively affected but would be better avoided.
 
I just found this page on the Volvo Penta site ...

A multigrade oil, i.e. for use all year round. Developed for harsh conditions under heavy load and high temperatures. Complies with VDS-2; tested to Volvo’s highest specification for purity and protection against wear, which involves long-term engine tests. Offers a string of advantages: longer intervals between oil changes, cleaner engines, reduced wear and combats cylinder polishing. Suitable for engines with or without turbo.

Viscosity: SAE 15W-40
Grade: VDS-2, API CG-4, ACEA E3
 
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nigelmercier said:
I just found this...

A multigrade oil, i.e. for use all year round. Developed for harsh conditions under heavy load and high temperatures. Complies with VDS-2; tested to Volvo’s highest specification for purity and protection against wear, which involves long-term engine tests. Offers a string of advantages: longer intervals between oil changes, cleaner engines, reduced wear and combats cylinder polishing. Suitable for engines with or without turbo.

Viscosity: SAE 15W-40
Grade: VDS-2, API CG-4, ACEA E3
Click to expand...

But on the same page they also have their VDS-3 oil

VDS-3 covers even more stringent requirements on piston cleanliness and bore polish compared to VDS-2, ensuring the durability and reliability of the engines. The high quality of VDS-3 oils allows in certain cases an increase in drain intervals.

Viscosity: SAE 15W-40
Grade: VDS-3, API CI-4, ACEA E5

and give exactly the same list of engines including all the oldies - 2002, MD1 etc!
 
vyv_cox said:
In the past it was customary to go to a higher viscosity in cars when they were suffering the effects of wear, e.g. higher oil consumption, lower oil pressure, knocking and rattling. In an engine that has only done 1500 hours the effects might be-
More difficult to start, as the engine will be more reluctant to turn over, especially in winter.
Slower circulation of the oil when cold, so maybe more cam, tappet and bore wear
Perhaps reduced supply of oil due to increased differential pressure across the filter.

None of these is going to be massively affected but would be better avoided.
Click to expand...

Does this mean I am better off (or rather my engine!) with a higher spex oil with the correct viscosity, than the API-CD oil with slightly lower viscosity?
 
Leif-J said:
Does this mean I am better off (or rather my engine!) with a higher spex oil with the correct viscosity, than the API-CD oil with slightly lower viscosity?
Click to expand...

I'm really only guessing but many people now run their engines with API CF-4 oil due to the non-availability of CD. I am not yet aware of any problems resulting, so I would go for the higher grade at the correct viscosity.
 
Q: After a recent trip to two major auto parts dealers for oil (5W 30), I realized synthetic oil is slowly replacing nonsynthetic on the display shelves. The problem is, I'm getting conflicting information about synthetic oil. One store attendant told me I shouldn't go back to regular oil after changing to synthetic. Then he said it would be okay to add a quart of regular oil to synthetic, if I needed to top up. Another clerk said I should never mix the two. At a different store, the employee said it didn't matter if I used synthetic and then later replaced it with regular oil.

A: Early synthetics got a bad reputation for leaking. This was because, despite the claims of the oil manufacturers, the seal-swell characteristics of the new synthetics were different from those of the mineral oils they replaced. If the seal-swell rate was lower, the seals shrank and oil leaked from crankshaft seals and rocker cover seals. If the rate was higher, the seals swelled a little extra and the engine was tight. Then if the owner changed back to mineral oil, or added a quart when no synthetic was to be had, things got really bad. The crank seals had become worn, in their turgid state, and then relaxed. The valve cover seals were compressed when swelled, and when the different oil was added, everything leaked like, well, an old English sports car.

Fortunately, the situation has improved; you should have no problem switching back and forth. Adding a quart of mineral oil to a crankcase full of synthetic will be fine. Read the fine print -- a lot of the "synthetics" on the market are blends containing a substantial proportion of mineral oil.

Read more: Motor Oil: Synthetic vs. Non-Synthetic - Popular Mechanics
 
vyv_cox said:
I'm really only guessing but many people now run their engines with API CF-4 oil due to the non-availability of CD. I am not yet aware of any problems resulting, so I would go for the higher grade at the correct viscosity.
Click to expand...

Thanks Cox, seems I can safely continue using my present oil then and consider my engine safe and pleased! :)
Would want it do do MANY more hours of service as it is merely a teenager by now.
 
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