Which electronics?

thanks for the reply.
if i can find out how they are wired up and how the transducer is routed from the display to the hull then i think i'll get the ff90 or ff100 on ebay for around 80-100 pounds.

i have a battery for engine start at the rear but the display would need to be close to the wheel so about 6-7ft of cable is needed to get to the battery and even more for the transducer wiring if it goes at the base of the transom. my boat doesnt plane so wont be much disturbed water to bother the transducer
 
The ff90 has a very nice clear display and three levels of orange back light. off-med-full,
i fittied the transducer in the buttom of the bilge, get a very large tennis ball size of silicone and push the transducer in the silcone, keeping it level. Or place the transducer at the stern of the boat in an area were it will allways be in water on the plain or cruising or idle, the battery display is shown below the the depth reading and you can set a voltage warning tone of the battery, i have mine set at 12.2v if the volts drop below this it will give me an audible tone continusly to alert me.

There is alot more to the transducer than i could right, i would search the net or give me a shout.

For the money i can not complain 1 bit, realy realy good bit of kit, i see the new ones also have a free software update from garmin, not sure what the prices are.

mark
 
take a red and black 12v 10amp cable from your battery termininlas and run up to the dash or fitting area, the garmin loom comes with a fused loom, keep the pwr to the f/f live at all time so the engine can be off but you can still use the display if anchored up.
 
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sounder/fishfinder? an eagle cuda is as cheap as chips (say £80) - we use them in our ribs, they last for years and sound efficiently even at our flat out speeds. Just silicon the transducer in the drain well.
 
i have no bilges but i have a small drainwell at the back where it could be siliconed in. i think i really will get one in the week. will use the car satnav and mark off on mycharts or save for a chart plotter but as said before it may be overkill and i only have one battery and an outboard that will charge at around 3-6amps at best
 
as long as you have a 12v car battery for your engine it will work, a typical charge when engine running will be about 13.6v, the draw from the garmins f/f is less than an 2 amps max.

just silicone the transducer somewhere were there is no air gaps, between the hull and transducer. i just fiited my transducer in a 21ft boat, there are extensions leads available.

plotters are lovely, i cant stretch to the cost,

mark
 
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cost is an issue for me aswell. ive just bought the boat then a brand new 20hp 4st outboard and ordered a new roller coaster tailer so want to use the boat now so will get a ff and already have the vhf so will use the car satnav in walking mode for now. should be enough for my limited uses
 
yeh agreed, just sort out how you will run the car sat nav, i had to wire in a 12v cigarette lighter socket so i could use my tom tom 920, but to be honist i use a paper map and visuals from the land and reference to the map, i allways stay close to the coast. After a rnli sea check for this year i dont have the equiupment to go offsure. Rnli recommended coastal cruising only, as soon as you say offshore boating you fall into a very precise area of having the correct equipment.
 
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