Which D-ring for clipping safety line in cockpit

Yeoman_24

Yeoman_24

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I'm looking to fit a couple of D-rings in the cockpit to clip safety lines to as we emerge from the companionway and also one by the wheel.

What is the minimum size of D-ring, size and number of fixing bolts people would recommend and should it be backed with plywood or will penny washers do?
 
Try Shroud / Chain plates + backing plates

DCP04501.jpg
 
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A couple of harness points came with my boat. They are fixed in the cockpit well but fold down when not in use, which is handy. I think that any reasonably substantial backing would suffice, as long as the screw thread was man enough for the job.
 
http://marine.wichard.com/fiche-A|WICHARD|65441-0202030501000000-ME.html

I am using the Wichard U Bolt, 8 mm, one at the wheel, 2 x each side of the cockpit foot well with a line between them like a mini jackstay; basically you can be clipped on anywhere in the cockpit. Mine will be backed by 100mm x 100mm x 5mm plywood pads with standard washers behind the bolts.

Currently I have a 5 mm U bolt that got bent manually when removing it to replace the lining inside. Basically, I levered it with a chunky screwdriver braced through the U against a piece of wood to try and break the bond. It is a shit quality stainless U bolt but I was surprised at how easily it bent, hence the upgrade.
 
When we bought the boat the only pad eye (?factory fitted) in the cockpit was a ludicrously small D ring mounted below the lazarette locker lid and so close to the cockpit sole as to be impossible to get a proper modern hook around it. We had the yard fit three big folding pad eyes that can accommodate multiple lifelines each. One is at the helm (above the silly D-ring), one half-way along the cockpit below the port side seats, and onther immediately below the companionway. I don't know what they are for sure but our local yard usually fits barton parts so I think they are part 60 309 here: http://www.bartonmarine.com/products-general-chandlery.asp

They work very nicely and the ring is rubber-backed so they fold down and don't rattle around when not in use. As far as fittings go the bolts for the one below the companionway emerges into the saloon above the stairs so it is backed with a nicely shaped bit of teak possibly more for cosmetic reasons.The others are secured with large washers.

Sorry- as they are all low down in the cockpit its not the sort of fitting one takes many photographs of......
 
in a confined cockpit of a small boat the type suggested by pvb are much better than U bolts. They are specifically designed to take lifeline clips. U bolts can however be useful on a bridge deck where the do not stick out too much, but are a nuisance on side locker fronts.
 
I like bolt hangers. Only one bolt is required, which means often you can fit them under an existing bolt (replace with 3/8-inch).

Fender washers are a complete and total wast of money. They should not sell them. I did a bunch of testing for mag articles (Practical Sailor). Basically, if there is enough load that it needs distributed (the core will compress), the fender washer just bends. They are OK until you need them... then they fail.

The rule thumb for backing plates generally is they need to be at least 5 fastener diameters in diameter and 1/2 fastener diameter thick.

You can order "extra heavy" fender washers. Also square washer for Unistrut are good.
 
The thing about "U" bolts is that they do not fold away when one goes to hook on & the hole tends to be a little larger so 2 can hook to the same fitting which is useful for fitting a couple of lines when crew go below.
 
I have seen a 6mm S/S eyebolt with small (maybe 15mm dia) washers and a bigger ply backing pad almost pulled through a GRP deck, eyebolt also distorted. Was in very extreme conditions, and it did it's job, but was replaced with bigger eye and better backing afterwards.

On my present AWB use U-bolts and Wichard cast S/S folding eyes all with hefty "old penny" sixed washers, but that boat is not going to be pitchpoled mid-north-atlantic. I regard that as adequate for simple "not falling overboard" use, as does my surveyor. Obviously fitted where the GRP is not that thin .....
 
In the cockpit, near the helm, Barton 60 304 - do not lose the little rubber bit that stops them rattling. Otherwise excellent - glassed a backing pad on the inside to spread the load and increase the pull out load beyond anything we might ever encounter.

Elsewhere, where you will not step on them or trip over them we have regular, originally fitted, U - probably shroud attachments.
 
jwilson said:
I have seen a 6mm S/S eyebolt with small (maybe 15mm dia) washers and a bigger ply backing pad almost pulled through a GRP deck, eyebolt also distorted. Was in very extreme conditions, and it did it's job, but was replaced with bigger eye and better backing afterwards.

On my present AWB use U-bolts and Wichard cast S/S folding eyes all with hefty "old penny" sixed washers, but that boat is not going to be pitchpoled mid-north-atlantic. I regard that as adequate for simple "not falling overboard" use, as does my surveyor. Obviously fitted where the GRP is not that thin .....
Click to expand...

6mm was tragically undersize, perhaps only 10% of the required strength (see the link). Someone did NOT do their homework at all and the sailor was lucky.
https://www.lift-it.com/info_forged_eye_bolt_warning.asp

An e-bolt is structurally all wrong for this.
 
A U bolt is pretty much as strong as wire of the same diameter. But small ones will require a major backing plate. I think we've 10mm U bolts in the cockpit for that reason but as noted they're are large enough to catch your ankle on so those folding jobs look a good idea.

Also, don't forget you'll need space to accommodate a number of lifelines. If you use double lifelines you're supposed to clip into the next before unclipping. So that's even more!

Mind you it's a while since I sailed in those sort of conditions. I'm more concerned with not spilling my beer these days.
 
Ruffles said:
A U bolt is pretty much as strong as wire of the same diameter. But small ones will require a major backing plate. I think we've 10mm U bolts in the cockpit for that reason but as noted they're are large enough to catch your ankle on so those folding jobs look a good idea.

Also, don't forget you'll need space to accommodate a number of lifelines. If you use double lifelines you're supposed to clip into the next before unclipping. So that's even more!


Mind you it's a while since I sailed in those sort of conditions. I'm more concerned with not spilling my beer these days.
Click to expand...

"Supposed to?" You can, but any notion that your are supposed to is urban legend.

The World Sailing Regulation says the 30% of the crew need to have a tether with a 3'4" option, but it does NOT have to have 2 legs. It clearly states it can be an intermediate clip.

The truth is folks don't fall off when they are mindfully moving from one place to another. They fall off when they are at a work station or are doing something (hands and mind are occupied). Double clipping is not even implied to be a requirement, a need, or even best practice. The spaghetti becomes the more serious hazard.
 
When I got my current boat 12 yrs ago, there were no clip on points at all(and it had been a sailing school boat some years earlier), so I fitted 4 x M8 'U' bolts in the cockpit, 2 forward and 2 aft, all backed with ¾" Plywood and penny washers. Never been tested in practice though!
 
Catch your ankle on cockpit U Bolts? On all the boats I have sailed the U Bolts are just below the top lip of the seat, at the ends of the seat, except the helm's man's seat where it is in the middle (single wheel). I cant think of a more awkward position for safety line U bolts than at ankle height.
 
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