Which Book on Boat Electrics?

Tam Lin

Tam Lin

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Following on from the thread on how to find the positive wire can anyone recommend a book on boat electrics which is easily understandable for someone with limited knowledge of the subject. There are a lot on Amazon but which are the best?
 
Nigel Calder's book is one of the most comprehensive books (although current edition is getting a bit long in the tooth) and I certainly wouldn't be without my copy, but it might be a bit daunting for a beginner.

I find Pat Manley's books to be very clear with good pictures and probably a good intro for the basics like joining wires and simple trouble shooting.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Essential-Boat-Electrics-Pat-Manley/dp/1904475175/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371596252&sr=8-1
If you want to re-design your entire electrics you'd be better off with Nigel Calder's book
 
OceanSprint said:
Google "12v doctor". Lots of sites have this excellent free .pdf file for download.
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Its here http://motoren.ath.cx/menus/electrical.php
But is an old edition. AFAIK all the free downloads are this edition. New edition available for purchase!

Another book by Garrod is also worth considering. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Practical-B...ie=UTF8&qid=1371614846&sr=8-9&keywords=garrod

Worth remembering that some of the books are American so there may be small differences on standards and practices
 
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Calders book is probably the best but as said above can be a bit heavy at times. Internet is fantastic at sorting out specific problems.
 
VicS said:
Worth remembering that some of the books are American so there may be small differences on standards and practices
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+1 - I think every book mentioned so far is American.

Most of it will probably still be applicable, some will be different but not a problem (for example, Americans seem to prefer "main" and "reserve" batteries rather than "engine" and "domestic" ones), and some will be downright wrong (for example most things to do with shore power).

Pete
 
i used the 12 volt bible and found it covered all the basics. and that's all there are.......basics! until you get to things like smart chargers etc. for making sure lights work, that power arrives at instruments and radios etc its reasonably logical if you have a meter and a rough idea of what should be happening.
 
Thanks Guys, I looked at Nigel Calder's book on Amazon and gulped when I saw the price! However, there are some secondhand ones at very reasonable prices so I ordered one. I know it will be a bit old but so is my boat! If it is too hard for me I will try some of the other suggestions. Having the starter motor pack up on me made me think that I ought to know more about where all the wires go as with most old boats I am sure that it has been much modified and the tangle of wires needs to be sorted out. Which reminds me, I have one of those battery isolation switches that turns from off to 1, 2 or both. It doesn't matter which position I switch to from off, I can start the engine and have the lights on as well. I thought that this switch switched between the starter battery and the auxiliary battery or have I missed something here?
 
Tam Lin said:
Which reminds me, I have one of those battery isolation switches that turns from off to 1, 2 or both. It doesn't matter which position I switch to from off, I can start the engine and have the lights on as well. I thought that this switch switched between the starter battery and the auxiliary battery or have I missed something here?
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Never assume one of those 1-2-both things does what they were originally designed to do. Mine certainly doesn't and from previous threads, I gather I'm not alone. Your assumption about what they're "supposed" to do is correct, but that's just about where your electricity is coming from (and probably going back to from the alternator), not where you're sending it.

Don't have my Calder here but IIRC Batteries are right at the beginning with all your options and why 1-2-both switches can be a bit dodgy. And the answer is probably "VSR"...
 
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Tam Lin said:
Thanks Guys, I looked at Nigel Calder's book on Amazon and gulped when I saw the price! However, there are some secondhand ones at very reasonable prices so I ordered one. I know it will be a bit old but so is my boat! If it is too hard for me I will try some of the other suggestions. Having the starter motor pack up on me made me think that I ought to know more about where all the wires go as with most old boats I am sure that it has been much modified and the tangle of wires needs to be sorted out. Which reminds me, I have one of those battery isolation switches that turns from off to 1, 2 or both. It doesn't matter which position I switch to from off, I can start the engine and have the lights on as well. I thought that this switch switched between the starter battery and the auxiliary battery or have I missed something here?
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That's how it should work but the juice will only becoming from what ever battery you select if it's wired properly also only the battery that is selected will be charging when the engine is running. Ths allows you to select either battery should one fail or go flat.
 
Tam Lin said:
It doesn't matter which position I switch to from off, I can start the engine and have the lights on as well. I thought that this switch switched between the starter battery and the auxiliary battery or have I missed something here?
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Not necessarily missed something, just not thought through the consequences. After all, there aren't special starter-motor electrons in one battery and cabin-light electrons in the other. So you can perfectly well start the engine from the house battery, or run the lights off the engine battery, or both. The behaviour you see (everything works as long as the switch isn't to OFF) is entirely normal.

(This is assuming the switch is wired as standard; as others have said, it's possible that it may not be.)

You really need to trace where all your wires go, at least the ones before the domestic switchboard anyway. You don't need a book for that, just your eyes, a screwdriver to remove panelling if necessary, and pencil and paper if you're not good at figuring this type of stuff out in your head.

Pete
 
Tam Lin said:
...I have one of those battery isolation switches that turns from off to 1, 2 or both. It doesn't matter which position I switch to from off, I can start the engine and have the lights on as well. I thought that this switch switched between the starter battery and the auxiliary battery or have I missed something here?
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Spyro said:
That's how it should work ...
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I think not. The switch is normally wired to the output from the alternator, and is used to feed either battery. The circuits themselves remain connected to their respective batteries.
 
nigelmercier said:
I think not. The switch is normally wired to the output from the alternator, and is used to feed either battery. The circuits themselves remain connected to their respective batteries.
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No doubt some boats are wired like that, but it's not "usual". Usual is to have everything attached to the common terminal of the 1-2-both, which operates as the OP described. For one thing, standard engine looms generally don't have a separate feed from the alternator, the current goes to the battery back down the starter motor cable.

Pete
 
nigelmercier said:
I think not. The switch is normally wired to the output from the alternator, and is used to feed either battery. The circuits themselves remain connected to their respective batteries.
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One possible method of use.

I'd have thought though that the more usual method of wiring would be simply to select one or other ( or both) of the batteries to be connected to the whole system to provide power for all uses and to be charged by the alternator.

In practice, perhaps, one would select the battery normally used for engine starting, and start the engine. After a period to recharge this battery switch to both and then to the battery used for domestics.
 
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