Where are Beta Marine engines made?

Zagato

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British company but are they made in the U.K. or abroad? I think they are pretty good, equal to Yanmar. Anything to watch out for on a 16hp model with 50 hrs on the clock at 5 years old? Thanks.
 
The basic engines are sourced from Japan, as said above they are Kubota engines. But there is a lot of work to take a basic engine and add gearbox (which is not Japanese), pumps, heat exchangers, alternators etc. This is done in the UK just outside Gloucester.

I have a 50HP. It is based on the Kubota 2203, which is a stationary engine, much used in refrigeration plant. It has done >1500 hrs and seems extremely sound. It was fitted from new by Rustler yachts. I am very happy with it, and on the few times I have called Beta they have been as helpful as possible so I heartily recommend them.
 
My 35hp had the standard sea water pump which didn't deliver enough to cool it properly and Beta supplied a larger one FOC. This was some years ago and they may now be supplying it as standard, don't know.
 
I've had a Beta 14 (also based on a Kubota engine, as are many Nanni marine engines). Excellent performance, super reliable, easy to service, no problem with anodes. Beta people very helpful and knowledgeable on the phone, and will usually get spares out in the post the same day.

If I were fitting a new engine, Beta would be my first choice based on my experience.

With respect to the anodes, I seem to recall it being suggested on this forum that the issue was that when the heat exchanger was new, anodes would be consumed more quickly. Once they developed a thin coating of scale (or whatever) the anodes would last much longer. They would stay that way provided the heat exchanger was cleaned manually (I used a long thin screw driver just the right diameter to clear out the tubes). By contrast, cleaning the heat exchanger matrix by soaking it in acid had the effect of removing that layer, and then the anode would be consumed more quickly again until it built up once more. Regular cleaning with acid = faster depletion of anodes. Whether that's true, I don't know. I never had the problem.
 
The basic engines are sourced from Japan, as said above they are Kubota engines. But there is a lot of work to take a basic engine and add gearbox (which is not Japanese), pumps, heat exchangers, alternators etc. This is done in the UK just outside Gloucester.

I have a 50HP. It is based on the Kubota 2203, which is a stationary engine, much used in refrigeration plant. It has done >1500 hrs and seems extremely sound. It was fitted from new by Rustler yachts. I am very happy with it, and on the few times I have called Beta they have been as helpful as possible so I heartily recommend them.


I think that is what out last lot of fridge trailers had for power, they had well over 30k hrs running time, some were nearer 50k, they were well worn when they got rid!
 
I find my pencil anode is about half "eaten" over a summer season so not too concerned. I really do like my Beta (14) and would certainly re engine with a Beta again.

Both the Beta engine in my last boat (10hp) and the one I have I my present boat (13hp) eat' the pencil anodes, but that's just a minor glitch, in general they are a great engines and I would certainly go for another Beta if I was in the market for another engine.
 
Thanks folks good to know. How do you check the anodes. Numpty question but it will be coming out of the water next week and probably going to be stored over the summer and through the winter. Should I do anything to it immediately e.g. Drain anything off and then winterise it. I just cannot remember, been a while since I had an inboard (only 7 years maybe but my memory is getting worse). Thanks. There maybe a chance of storing it for a couple of months and asking someone to sail it up from Torpoint to Chichester Harbour with and for me or just for me, so probably don,t want to winterise it just yet.
 
Check the Technodrive box has been installed properly and goes into neutral as it should (see nearby thread).

Check the rear bell housing on the heat exchanger is not leaking down the back of the engine / has been replaced properly.

My anodes lasted 3 months when engine was new, 6 months after a year, or so and now last a couple of seasons. You can get cheap ones that retain the brass plug and have screw in zincs.

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If you go on to the Beta Marine website you can find 'literature download' and you can download installationand user manual for your engine.
Years ago I stripped a small Kubota engine and was most impressed with the standard of construction. Polished connecting rods, beautiful castings, a real quality machine. Hope they are still as good.
 
I've had a 14 in the past and my Bowman 26 has a 10 with about 400 hours on it now. These two "mini twin" engines have been very reliable and the fuel economy is unreal - I get 2/3 to 3/4 litre per hour with the 10!
 
Check the rear bell housing on the heat exchanger is not leaking down the back of the engine / has been replaced properly.
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Thanks for feedback folks. What are the repercussions if the heat exchanger has been leaking? Is it the same issue that the Yanmars have where the exhaust elbow rots through letting water into the engine? I don,t recall this being an issue on the Beta's!

The boat has been in the water all winter, probably two and just dried out for a scrub. Will find out if it has been serviced today and what type of deisel he has used and from where as some are not compatible from memory.
 
Thanks for feedback folks. What are the repercussions if the heat exchanger has been leaking? Is it the same issue that the Yanmars have where the exhaust elbow rots through letting water into the engine? I don,t recall this being an issue on the Beta's!

..........

A leak at the back makes a mess of the paintwork and the rear flexi foot, mainly cosmetic. However someone posted a photo of a seriously neglected example where severe corrosion had set in on the alloy tank. Worry not, I see you have a c '16 engine, it was sorted on engines post 2012ish.

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I've had a 14 in the past and my Bowman 26 has a 10 with about 400 hours on it now. These two "mini twin" engines have been very reliable and the fuel economy is unreal - I get 2/3 to 3/4 litre per hour with the 10!
I have the Nanni N2.14 version of the 14hp model, and it's delightfully frugal. Last summer we motored from Port Bannatyne to Ardrishaig (about 8 hours) and then went through the Crinan Canal, using under 8 litres in total. Ican't recommend Nanni, though, because it had lots of teething problems and dealer support was unspeakably bad.
 
… With respect to the anodes, I seem to recall it being suggested on this forum that the issue was that when the heat exchanger was new, anodes would be consumed more quickly. Once they developed a thin coating of scale (or whatever) the anodes would last much longer. They would stay that way provided the heat exchanger was cleaned manually (I used a long thin screw driver just the right diameter to clear out the tubes). By contrast, cleaning the heat exchanger matrix by soaking it in acid had the effect of removing that layer, and then the anode would be consumed more quickly again until it built up once more. Regular cleaning with acid = faster depletion of anodes. Whether that's true, I don't know. I never had the problem.

Yes, that was my point, as a chemist: any fresh metal surface exposed to seawater will build up a surface layer of oxide, carbonate or hydroxycarbonate. If removed by acid, its protective effect will take time to renew during which the zinc will I believe be consumed at a faster rate. Like you, I poke through the tubes and I've never cleaned the H/E matrix with acid, because I have never needed to do so - but some people have I think encountered much heavier deposits (of calcium carbonate I presume).
 
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