Whats a good quality brand of screw/stud extractors?

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Matata

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Im taking out a 6mm bolt that's seized and sheared. I'm drilling a pilot hole 2.5mm. Then using a left handed drill bit 4mm. If that doesn't do it , I was going to use a screw extractor. I wanted good quality. Any suggestions? Nik
 
I've never used one that worked. Heat and drilling is most effective. I have one seized in my coachroof and I'm scratching my head how to get it out. Troble is, when they shear off, the remaining part is case hardened which makes it really difficult to drill.

Is it possible to cut the glassfibre around the bolt with a plug cutter then fit a larger bolt, or a larger washer?
 
If you really want to go the route of a stud extractor then I would suggest a splined one and not a reverse threaded one. They grip the remaining part of the stud through it's full length.

Something like this http://www.tooled-up.com/product/facom-25-piece-stud-extractor/162218

If seized in metal then I would first try copious amounts of a penetrating lubricant (e.g. PlusGas..), definitely not WD40.

Heating.. alternately the stud.. and the surround.. Perhaps adding the lubricant when hot so that as the parts cool they draw in the lubricant.

You'll probably be safer drilling out to 5mm ensuring you are dead center... then just picking out the thread coil that is left and then cleaning up with a tap.

Has the stud broken off above, level with or under the surface?

If above then perhaps a special stud extractor.. If below and you want a way of ensuring you drill centrally, then perhaps you can (on the bench) drill a 2.5mm hole dead center down a short length of m6 studding. Then screw that bit of studding into the bit of the hole you have left and then drill through that.
 
The best extractor I've ever used, and used successfully was a standard spline bit. It has to be a top quality bit, the size of bit and drill hole requires careful choice.
 
Martin_J said:
If you really want to go the route of a stud extractor then I would suggest a splined one and not a reverse threaded one. They grip the remaining part of the stud through it's full length.

Something like this http://www.tooled-up.com/product/facom-25-piece-stud-extractor/162218

If seized in metal then I would first try copious amounts of a penetrating lubricant (e.g. PlusGas..), definitely not WD40.

Heating.. alternately the stud.. and the surround.. Perhaps adding the lubricant when hot so that as the parts cool they draw in the lubricant.

You'll probably be safer drilling out to 5mm ensuring you are dead center... then just picking out the thread coil that is left and then cleaning up with a tap.

Has the stud broken off above, level with or under the surface?

If above then perhaps a special stud extractor.. If below and you want a way of ensuring you drill centrally, then perhaps you can (on the bench) drill a 2.5mm hole dead center down a short length of m6 studding. Then screw that bit of studding into the bit of the hole you have left and then drill through that.
Click to expand...

I just love it when a nut and spanner job turns into a light engineering job!
 
Matata said:
Im taking out a 6mm bolt that's seized and sheared. I'm drilling a pilot hole 2.5mm. Then using a left handed drill bit 4mm. If that doesn't do it , I was going to use a screw extractor. I wanted good quality. Any suggestions? Nik
Click to expand...

I bought mine 30-odd years ago but I've no idea of the make. However, as others have said, the hotter you can get things the better. If there are no plastic or rubber fittings anywhere near then a small gas torch is perfect for some really concentrated heating. Get it really hot and reverse drill and it will probably come out.

Richard
 
ronsurf said:
My opinion is that if it's seized enough to shear the head off, then just an extractor is unlikely to shift it. Heat it if possible.
Click to expand...

+1

If it is stuck in metal, a quick way of heating it is to accurately aim a welding electrode and spark-stick the tip to the remains of the bolt. The heat is usually enough to break the bond and the stuck electrode can then be used to unscrew.

OTOH, if the material is fibreglass my usual method is to drill right next to the stub until it can be extracted by using long-nose pliers. Filling the resulting hole is dead easy and I can then drill a new hole when the goo is cured.
 
had this before and after heating up and wasting hours I found the best way was to drill bolt close to full size but not touching threads then loads of wd40 tip bolt with solder iron to introduce a bit of heat with no flame then used a easi outed it was easy as well just had to get in me head it was the only way without drill and tapping it
if you take time and got access to bolt it is not the quality of easi out but prepping it so it doesn't put too much strain on easi out as its only a 6mm bolt should be easyish

good luck



good luck
 
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