what wood would......

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monkey_trousers

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bf494.co.uk
at the risk of betting verbally beaten to a pulp...

was wondering about a woody question. we're ripping the deck up, almost all of it in fact, currently its a mixture of larch and a few bits of what I think is douglas fir where repairs have been done over the decades...

planks are 70mm wide and a whopping 40mm thick, and am currently shopping for lots of timber, and have wondered about using tanellised timber??

seems odd that you can buy the stuff cheaper than untreated but hey how, is it a really stupid thing to contemplate using? whats the reasons to laugh at my stupidity for even contemplating it?

problem with getting sealant to do sealy things? issue with caulking doing its caulky thing

we need about half a mile of timber (really!) and it seams stacks cheaper
 
some treatment is just dumping the wood in a bath of the chemicals, but perhaps check that it is made using a pressure or vacuum system to get the preservative deep down inside. Superficially treated stuff doesn't last.

Have a look at this page to see what chemicals go into the wood, and why it might pay to consider the effects on human beings, your ship's cat, and the environment.
http://www.ccaresearch.org/about_cca.htm

If you are going to ise CCA treated timber, specify that it is heavily treated, with a retention value (the amount of CCA used) in the region of 1 to 2 lb per cu ft. (about 5 times more than for "decking". Costs there4 may be an issue.


Working with tanalised is hazardous. Splinters especially.

A good page on hazards here
http://www.tpaa.com.au/industrycca.htm
 
Tanalised timber is normally carcassing timber . Stress graded (by eye normally) for the amount of defects it has in it .Basicly its the stuff that can't be used for joinery and other uses where the timber has to look good . I assume the deck will be seen ?
A cheaper way to go would be to buy direct from the saw mill . I know Forbsie bought some serious timber blanks of larch direct from a saw mill so he may be able to help with that .
 
I have used 1000's of meters of Tanalised timber for building Cross Country Event jumps over the years. Now the Health and Safety bods have insisted that Chrome and Arsenic are not acceptable in the treatment, it does not last any were near long as it used to,quite right to, as it was pretty nasty stuff. When it arrives some it, if just treated it will be sopping wet and very heavy. As to applying any other form of treatment ie, stains or paint, it will not accept any of these when wet and results when dry are varied. The timber as a rule comes rough sawn when tanalised unless you specify PSE which adds a lot to the cost as a one off. if you plane sawn up you will remove most of the treatment , therefore defeating the object. I would stick to plain timber and treat it yourself, then at least you get the finish you want.
 
I guess it all makes sense, and I suppose if it were that good everyone would be using the stuff.

the yard I'd seen it in just happened to have tanalised PSE to the size we want, and it looked pretty dry, the pallets look like they've been stacked there a while

I guess the answer is, yes if its good quality, dry stable timber thats been tanalised, otherwise it'll be more trouble than its worth
 
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