What to use to protect inside hull

[HDML1379]

New to all this!

My 1943 boat is constructed of 'double diagonal' larch planks. It has been unused and unloved for some years now, and I'd like it to survive for many years to come...

Is there a recommended product to apply to the inside of the hull timbers (where I can actually get to them). It looks like they've had some type of paint in the past but its mostly flaked off now? I've noticed 2 small patches of some form of rot which I would imagine there's a chemical solution to apply here.

Also - I'm considering installing some form of insulation. I imagine it would be best to leave an air gap between the hull and insultation - is that sensible, or could I butt the insulation right up to the inside of the hull?

Any help gratefully recieved

 

[Helo&Craig]

Everdure from International paints is popular for that job here, is a very very thin epoxy, Also used at build time. Link below to Aussie reseller with description

http://www.biasboating.com.au/p-768-international-everdure.aspx

Craig

 

[stuhaynes]

"My 1943 boat is constructed of 'double diagonal' larch planks. It has been unused and unloved for some years now, and I'd like it to survive for many years to come..."

I know the feeling. We're in a bit of a catch 22 situation with our own boat. She's 7 years newer than yours and we've lived on her for the last 10 years. She's mahogany on oak with carvel construction, and we really ought to treat the bilges. It would be a nightmare for us, all of the floor up, out of the water and a drying out period of what could easily become a couple of months before a treatment such as 'Everdure' could be applied, even if it was suitable.
When the boat was built the entire hull was painted in pink lead, much of which is gone now.
Ideally I could do with a product that will treat damp / wet wood and protect it even if it gets wet again. Common ground between us is the lack of access to certain areas where a 'mist' type spray application may do the trick. I think I may be asking too much.

Regarding the insulation. This is only based on my own experience, there may be other opinions. Our boat is completely uninsulated and even though we've had temperatures down to -18c we've been kept warm by a mix of 2 low wattage heaters bow and stern, and our little 'Boatman' solid fuel stove. The worry with old wood is trapped condensation causing rot where you can't see it, like behind insulation. We decided it wasn't worth the risk and instead, improved the ventilation.
One thing we have done that has been very effective is to fit a 100mm extractor fan above the stove at high level. When it gets too hot at high level in the main cabin, we switch it on and push that heat into the bow where the bed is. It improves ventilation, heats the bow and reduces the heat being lost through the cabin roof.

 

[ccscott49]

Waterbased epoxy from John at tradboats in Beccles. Brilliant stuff for exactly what you need.

 

[Bobobolinsky]

I'll go with the water based epoxy, but I would try an area first with a small sample, because wood soaked in salt water, can reject the resin and not allow it to soak in, and you may be reticent to completely dry a wooden boat, though, it is often another problem with double diagonal planking, when it has a textile layer between the planks. For bilges, I like the old red lead, which you can still buy from some trad boat suppliers. You can line the hull with strip planking, which will give a still air insulation , without allowing the nasties to get at damp wood. I've seen bilges coated in hot applied bitumen before now.