What to coat sheet of ply on cockpit floor with?

[Trevelyan]

Hi all,
My Seal 22 has a moulded GRP cockpit floor, which has a wibbly-wobbly design (three raised sections with gullys between running left-right). This is a recipe for trips and stubbed toes, and the previous owner fitted a sheet of ply to the cockpit floor (also covering evidence of where a section of floor was cut out once to get at the stern-tube, I think). The old sheet was painted, and I am now replacing it. I have used eposeal primer on it, but I am wondering - do I epoxy it, then apply some kind of paint? Do I just apply paint and skip the epoxy? I am thinking varnish would be too slippery. Any pointers please.

PS I know using ply is grotty, but she's a fairly basic boat!

Cheers,
Trev

 

[Tranona]

Seal the edges with epoxy and the underside with Danboline. The top surface with deck paint over primer and undercoat to make it non slip.

 

[Poignard]

You could cover it with Treadmaster

 

[AndrewL]

You could use garage floor paint, Screwfix sell a good 'no nonsense' brand one. I used it on the chipboard raised floor of my garage. It's very hard wearing, offers some grip and resistant to most chemicals.

Not too expensive and I got two coats from one can, so you should easily get several coats out of a can. Not a great choice of colours though.

 

[vyv_cox]

The wheelhouse roof on Cecilia is plywood, previously overlaid with GRP. This had separated from the ply, allowing water to penetrate the wood. I cut off all the GRP and laid up a replacement using woven glass and epoxy. This has made a permanent job of it, now totally waterproof.

 

[Fantasie 19]

Given my experience with the hatch covers on my boat, don't do what I did..

If I was to do them again, I'd epoxy seal and then paint without a second thought...

 

[reeac]

Hi all,
My Seal 22 has a moulded GRP cockpit floor, which has a wibbly-wobbly design (three raised sections with gullys between running left-right). This is a recipe for trips and stubbed toes, and the previous owner fitted a sheet of ply to the cockpit floor (also covering evidence of where a section of floor was cut out once to get at the stern-tube, I think). The old sheet was painted, and I am now replacing it. I have used eposeal primer on it, but I am wondering - do I epoxy it, then apply some kind of paint? Do I just apply paint and skip the epoxy? I am thinking varnish would be too slippery. Any pointers please.

PS I know using ply is grotty, but she's a fairly basic boat!

Cheers,
Trev

I finished the 12 marine ply floorboards in my old dayboat with Primocon then Danboline underneath and deck paint on top with a coat of Danboline over the deck paint as it was a bit abrasive on knees etc.

 

[AntarcticPilot]

If it's epoxied, you need to paint or varnish it, as epoxy is not resistant to UV.

 

[Jim@sea]

Seal the edges with epoxy and the underside with Danboline. The top surface with deck paint over primer and undercoat to make it non slip.

I dont use Damboline. I prefer to use two pack epoxy, its stronger.

 

[pyrojames]

Mine is covered with 12mm teak. Possibly not a popular solution!

 

[Greenheart]

Now that I may be as little as a year away from finishing my ply cockpit floor, I'll bother the assembled by asking some daft questions...

...I've used epoxy on 9mm marine ply and am now very slowly shaping gently curved wooden 'risers' to support the ply, so the floor will be flat above the infinite and subtle curves of the actual GRP deck...painfully slow work, and I ain't no craftsman...

Belatedly, it occurred to me that I'll need some non-slip, and I'm thinking of using those Hempel granules...

...but I want to add them to the last possible layer, i.e. the varnish I use to protect the epoxy, rather than envelope the non-slip 'pearls' in epoxy, then risk blanketing the non-slip effect with the final layer on top.

So, would it be unwise to use some household varnish which happens to be lying about, rather than invest what feels like a lot of cash, for a tiny pot of exterior yacht varnish which is far more than I need? I mean, the varnish isn't to treat the wood, just the epoxy.

And, is there anything I can add to darken the aft sections of ply? The difference isn't as stark as in that picture...the aft sections weren't epoxied at all, there...but considering they were sold as the same product, the grain of the forward sections is much darker.

 

[nemodreams]

I did some replacement slats for my wetline dingy just like that. Marine ply - varnished well - then last coat, dust with hemple granules. Works well.

 

[Spuddy]

For a cheap non slip top coat theres the option of toshing on paint or varnish of choice then scattering sugar all over. When dry a watery scrub will dissolve sugar and leave mini craters. Tother option is Sandtex or similar but that takes your skin off

 

[Greenheart]

Thanks for these thoughts...but my primary saving will be from not buying Schooner varnish, instead using some old thing we were going to use on the coffee table at home...

...so my query is, will ordinary varnish be up to the job of a) protecting the epoxy, and b) holding the Hempel non-slip pellets securely?

Any ideas on how I can subtly darken the varnish or epoxy to match the darker grain of the other decking panels?

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

You can stain the plywood to practically any colour you choose; not expensive at all.

Instead of sprinkling granules (relatively expensive) or sugar (I don't like the craters) you could consider sticking parallel strips of non-slip material onto the cured varnish wherever you think is necessary leaving gaps (20 - 30mm) between them. When they eventually begin to lift off you can either replace them or re-attach them with impact adhesive.

 

[alahol2]

...so my query is, will ordinary varnish be up to the job of a) protecting the epoxy, and b) holding the Hempel non-slip pellets securely?

As no-one else seems to want to risk an answer... I'd say normal interior varnish is unlikely to have the UV inhibitors required to properly protect the epoxy.
This isn't stupidly expensive... http://www.diy.com/departments/ronseal-satin-outdoor-varnish-250ml/127567_BQ.prd

 

[Greenheart]

You can stain the plywood to practically any colour you choose; not expensive at all.

Hmm...thanks, but it's too late for that, P-Draggy. The ply is already thickly epoxied. I wonder how I can add some tint to the varnish?

Thanks Alahol, that Ronseal certainly won't break the bank...on the same page, I noticed the Ronseal "Yacht Varnish" too...

...I wonder if that "does exactly what it says on the tin"?

 

[EuanMcKenzie]

I wouldn't varnish floor boards as you just scratch them anyway

for my wayfarer floor I just epoxied the ply then painted the top and sides only with international deck paint

the type with the non slip included

One tin is all you will need and think how much sandpaper you wont need to buy if you don't varnish them.

Was persuaded not to do the underside by a racing type who said it was unnecessary weight and it wouldn't see the sun anyway.

 

[PhillM]

i like danboline. works well in bilges and underfloor. Blakes deck paint on the topside.

 

[Greenheart]

I wouldn't varnish floor boards as you just scratch them anyway.

Ah! So, I need a nice tough layer of epoxy to protect the varnish. :encouragement:

I was certainly tempted to paint the floors with my Toplac, with added non-slip granules, especially since I already have plenty of paint...but the more wood I put on board, the better I like looking at it! So does everyone else.