geem
Well-Known Member
Not my title but the title of the video. Worth a look at a Hanse following a grounding and the subsequent repair
I hit a rock at slightly over 6kts whilst motoring in my Hanse. 311. I was thrown forward as the boat stopped dead. When lifted out of the water the insurance surveyor could find absolutely no damage whatsoever. So Hanse yachts are quite strong in the keel area.
But it has to be said that if one is going to treat the boat like a dodgem car one is going to have to expect damage.
Interesting to see how the grid is built and bonded to the hull and good on the bloke for his show and tell.
So why does the hull need to be thicker than 10 mm. My last timber boat had a hull that was 9mm planking. It was rotten in places, such that when i had the paint shot blasted off, it blew holes in the hull. Prior to that it leaked like a sieve. Can you tell me which is better.“How thick the hull is “ 10 mil......
“Glued together with brittle putty..”
Nah....
Cars are designed to absorb impact damage to protect the passengers, not to improve repair-ability.Quite right. A hard grounding will inflict damage, and boats aren't designed for that. Getting run into amidships will inflict damage, and boats aren't designed for that either. Cars are designed for impact damage, but often the cost of repairing that damage is more than the car's worth. So boats are really no different, as impact damage repairs are big money.
On the other hand the 10mm skin probably flexed thus partly absorbing the shock, rather than a 12mm skin that may have shattered & been holed.The whole point of a grid to absorb the keel and rig forces becomes rather pointless when it cannot receive and absorb the loads of an accidental grounding because it is not properly attached to the hull. As the owner pointed out, it resulted in a crack running down the centre of the hull and could have just as well ended up with the rear keel root penetrating the 10 mm hull skin.
Cars are designed to absorb impact damage to protect the passengers, not to improve repair-ability.
Boats should be able to survive a grounding at hull speed, so as not to drown it's crew. Considering that grounding is a relatively common occurrence while cruising, I would expect a boat to come out of that at better than a write-off, or a two year refurbishment.
So why does the hull need to be thicker than 10 mm. My last timber boat had a hull that was 9mm planking. It was rotten in places, such that when i had the paint shot blasted off, it blew holes in the hull. Prior to that it leaked like a sieve. Can you tell me which is better.
Rectifying this amount of damage could be far more work, than rectifying the relatively flimsy construction of a Bavaria.