What Size Cable?

[Richard10002]

IMO a sensible way forward would be to run some heavy cables to a junction box local to the Coolfreeze's intended location and to connect the socket close to this using lighter cable. The same size as the supplied lead perhaps.

Sounds like a plan. The heavier cable could even terminate at a fused switch panel, thus introducing some future proofing, or improvement of the existing wiring.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Ah, no previous mentions of fitting the actual socket, so that makes two separate "projects".

Socket, wired with appropriate cable, 2.5mm is fine if it's not a mile long, it's rated at 30a, so as long as there isn't a voltage drop issue, it's fine. Fit a 20a fuse, it will protect the cable and the max rating of the socket. In fact, even if the cable is long and needs to be thicker cable, still fit a 20a fuse.

My previous advice regarding the socket to fridge cable stands. But, i second Vics advice to get the socket as close to the intended location of the fridge as possible. I'd also be looking for a better socket/plug for this job.

 

[PaulRainbow]

IMO a sensible way forward would be to run some heavy cables to a junction box local to the Coolfreeze's intended location and to connect the socket close to this using lighter cable. The same size as the supplied lead perhaps.

As he's wiring it to a socket, heavier cable could go straight to the socket (if heavier is needed).

But Richards idea of an additional fuse panel is sound. Run some 6mm to a blade fuse panel (protected by a 40a fuse) and then 2.5mm cable from the fuse panel to the socket, protected by a 20a fuse. Provided it's all in an area where it might be useful of course.

 

[Richard10002]

Been thinking about this kind of thing for a while:

I am currently planning to run a heavy cable along the boat, (10mm2 or 16mm2 along the ceiling seems to be the easiest route), to terminate at a switch panel at/near the front, from where it will supply various things. The existing wiring is to thin for what I've got fitted and voltage drop is an issue. I noticed it when i plugged a 240V TV into a 300W inverter and, every now and then, the inverter sounds its' low voltage alarm.

The run will be about 15m one way, so I dont plan to be able to supply 300W, (25A). I'm going to do an audit, and replace the 300W inverter with a much "smaller" one, just a bit bigger than needed for the TV.

 

[PaulRainbow]

Been thinking about this kind of thing for a while:

I am currently planning to run a heavy cable along the boat, (10mm2 or 16mm2 along the ceiling seems to be the easiest route), to terminate at a switch panel at/near the front, from where it will supply various things. The existing wiring is to thin for what I've got fitted and voltage drop is an issue. I noticed it when i plugged a 240V TV into a 300W inverter and, every now and then, the inverter sounds its' low voltage alarm.

The run will be about 15m one way, so I dont plan to be able to supply 300W, (25A). I'm going to do an audit, and replace the 300W inverter with a much "smaller" one, just a bit bigger than needed for the TV.

Thinking often gets stuck in the mindset of having everything crammed into the panel at the chart table. This is more often than not a bad idea on modern boats with more electrics/electronics. I'm just finishing off a rewire on a 60ft motorboat, with similar power requirements to a sailing yacht. I've fitted a 35mm cable to a busbar, in an enclosure beneath the chart table. The enclosure is also fitted with 22 thermal circuit breakers, for circuits that don't require a switch, these are connected to the busbar.

Also connected to the busbar is a 10mm cable that goes to an overhead box that is also fitted with a busbar (lighter duty), which in turn supplies power to a set of thermal breakers and switches, fitted to the box.

You could run something like 35mm cable forward, fit a busbar and run the current inverter, then connect lighter cable to supply the other circuits. I'd consider a different route though, which may well be cheaper than buying a new inverter. I have a Samsung 24" LED TV, that is powered from the mains via a 14v power brick. I've ditched the brick and have it connected to a DC-DC converter, likewise a Samsung soundbar and my laptop. So no inefficient losses that you get with an inverter and i've only had to wire them with 2.5mm cables (no doubt a bit overkill).