what saw bench ? Advice please

[sarabande]

I need to cut some timbers (ranging from 12mm marine ply, to 50x75 PAR) at odd angles, shapes, and lengths as part of building some more support under the cockpit. (Boat is a 24ft ply sloop, so there may be other uses such as scarf joints)

Till now, I've done this sort of thing with a hand saw. I've trawled the Axminster site to look at various sub £350 saw benches which would have uses in the house as well.

This one looks quite good.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Makita-MLT100-Saw-Bench-796884.htm

What do the forum woodworking experts think, please ? It will be my first venture into such type of machinery....

 

[sailorman]

I need to cut some timbers (ranging from 12mm marine ply, to 50x75 PAR) at odd angles, shapes, and lengths as part of building some more support under the cockpit. (Boat is a 24ft ply sloop, so there may be other uses such as scarf joints)

Till now, I've done this sort of thing with a hand saw. I've trawled the Axminster site to look at various sub £350 saw benches which would have uses in the house as well.

This one looks quite good.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Makita-MLT100-Saw-Bench-796884.htm

What do the forum woodworking experts think, please ? It will be my first venture into such type of machinery....

Makita make good kit i have quite a lot of it
the Cant cut is only 64 m/m due to the small blade dia
if it meets your requirements go 4 it

 

[john_morris_uk]

What about a radial arm saw if you want to cut varied angles etc?

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Triton Work Centre and Rip Saw

I have a Triton Workcentre and the Triton Rip Saw. I used the bench with a Bosch Rip Saw for a few years. The Triton Saw was expensive but it is deadly accurate with a rock steady blade.

The work centre allows ripping, beveling, cross cutting and comes with an accurate fence for width setting. You can also buy a router table for the work centre frame as well. Its a good piece of kit.

http://www.tritontools.co.uk/triton-spare-parts_workcentre-mk3.html

 

[ean_p]

If you can find one a good condition ELU Flip Saw. It converts(flips over) from table saw to compound mitre chop saw . I have that and a DeWalt 320 Radial Arm saw. They knock spots off the DeWalt Radial arm saw.

 

[Tranona]

Thats at the top end of the budget market and should be more than adequate for what you want to do.

 

[fisherman]

A compound mitre saw at B&Q, (or Axminster or Screwfix) 240v, is under £100, one with a sliding rail will cut up to 250mm x 75mm. For the board work, probably a decent jigsaw, and/or a circular saw, which will bevel, set for depth and fence cut.

If you worry about quality buy Makita.

 

[Blue5]

I need to cut some timbers (ranging from 12mm marine ply, to 50x75 PAR) at odd angles, shapes, and lengths as part of building some more support under the cockpit. (Boat is a 24ft ply sloop, so there may be other uses such as scarf joints)

Till now, I've done this sort of thing with a hand saw. I've trawled the Axminster site to look at various sub £350 saw benches which would have uses in the house as well.

This one looks quite good.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Makita-MLT100-Saw-Bench-796884.htm

What do the forum woodworking experts think, please ? It will be my first venture into such type of machinery....

That looks to be a nice little saw, the main problem with "table top" saws is that people forget that the material they are cutting needs additional support and the machine needs bolting down so it doesnt tip. The cross cutting facilty works OK with the right blade and a suitable "sled" made up, I would not try and cross cut 12mm ply with it.

These small saws are good and with a bit of inventive thinking and a few good jigs and a selection of blades make a nice addition to a home workshop.

Now of course you will need a dust extractor..............it never stops with just one tool!!!!

 

[dovekie]

I think saw benches - especially small ones, are not ideal for this. In particular, as has been said, it is very hard to cut flat materials because of the extensive support the material needs. The option of a cheap compound mitre saw for your PAR and a good jigsaw for your 12mm ply will serve you better for this job, and in the long run too, and should come in under the price of that table saw.

 

[Poignard]

I cut up large pieces of plywood using a router run along a straightedge. This gives a very clean finish and is very fast.

I also have a Record BS300 bandsaw with 12" throat and 8" cutting depth.

Any crosscutting/mitreing that won't fit into the bandsaw is done on a Nobex hand mitre saw.

I did have a cheapo Axminster table saw but it did not get used enough to justify the space it occupied so I sold it on.

When working on the boat I use Japanese hand saws unless power is available, in which case I might use my excellent Bosch jigsaw.

Don't despise hand saws - a good quality, sharp hand saw can get through work surprisingly quickly and warms you up on cold days!

 

[Captain Coochie]

I struggled with sheet marerial for years on an elu flip and most of the time i used a guide rail or a saw board . Basicly a straight edge that you run the base of the circ saw along . Cheap as chips and works perfectly . I know Forbsie has the Triton set up so he may be able to tell you if its any good .
I decided to go for one of these in the end

A link to making a saw board .... http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/sawboard/

 

[srp]

If I could only have one saw it would be a bandsaw - £350 could get you a secondhand Startrite 352, which would cut everything in your list. A couple of roller stands might be useful to support sheets and longer lengths, and a good old fashioned jack plane to whistle down the edges if you need them smooth.

Radial arm saws and mitre saws are really intended for cross-cuts and, erm, mitres. I have used my ras for ripping but it's nowhere near as safe as a band saw or circular saw, particularly on a bit of 50 x 75.

If I could only have two saws, the second would be a decent portable circular saw with a guide rail (De Walt, Bosch, Mafell and Festool do them), or you can sort out a home-brewed version of your own using bits from Axminster eg http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=21753&name=guide+rail&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=44

 

[Deleted member 36384]

Triton Work Centre Functionality

The Triton table top is about 4' x 3'. The fence runs the full 4' and is parallel to the circular saw. The fence distance from the saw can be adjusted and there are two rules along each side to keep it parallel at different thickness of cut.

The fence has a flat face and a 45 degree face and is about 4" high. The 45 degree face allows you to cut long pieces at 45 degrees on the table which is easier than running a plane or saw along the piece its self. However, you are limited to about a width of 12" at most as 8" will be above the fence and require manual support.

A sliding set square with a protractor scale and pivot allows you to set a piece at any angle to the saw and push the work piece through the saw at the set angle. The track is very smooth when pushing the set square and piece towards the saw.

The table top can be removed and fitted below the circular saw. The circular saw is mounted on a carriage and you just pull back and flip it over. You now have a cross cut saw that can be slid back and forward along the table. The saw itself can be adjusted for cutting at an angle or for setting a depth of cut. I have cut tenons very fast on the table top and used the circular saw to remove all the waste effortlessly. On the table top the depth of cut can also be set from the circular saw. The Triton saw has a nice long cam lever for locking and adjusting the depth of cut. A nice smooth action that allows the depth to be accurately set which is easily accessible when the saw is mounted below the table top.

I have a couple of Record Roller Stands and have cut 8 x 4 sheets on the Triton work centre.

The Work Centre easily fits in the boot of a car and can be hung up on a wall when not in use. The legs are collapsible such that they fold inwards when storing but expand outwards when supporting the table to give a wide base for stability. Its a pleasure to use and makes a lot of cutting very easy.

I dont have the Triton Router table but I have cut boards with my router very easily as well using a baton for the width of cut. In fact this gives the best edge by far.

 

[Captain Coochie]

If you do go for a table saw please make it your first job to make some wooden push sticks . the plastic ones supplied are rubbish and shatter if you hit the blade . I have seen a few pro joiners cut the tops of thier thumbs off over the last few weeks so push sticks first and always to hand before you turn the saw on

 

[grafozz]

If you do go for a table saw please make it your first job to make some wooden push sticks . the plastic ones supplied are rubbish and shatter if you hit the blade . I have seen a few pro joiners cut the tops of thier thumbs off over the last few weeks so push sticks first and always to hand before you turn the saw on

good advice, cuchilo, , use a scrap of timber radius one end so it fits in your palm then cut a notch in the other end to sit on the shoulder of the panel you are pushing and keep all your fingers !