What rubber to prevent metal sliding?

Greenheart

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I'm making an outboard bracket, and it's all a bit...custom.

I need to fasten the 25mm ply 'false transom' to 38mm diameter 1.5mm stainless pipes which will transfer the engine's weight and thrust to stronger points than the boat's light glassfibre transom. No need to suggest alternatives - this will be fine, when it's done.

I looked up 'saddle clips' which might secure the pipes to the wood, but the size I need were almost £5 each, and I'd want quite a few...

...so I actually made my own, one big one for each pipe, by bending sheets of 1.5mm stainless into a shape that would fit round them.

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Bending stainless is difficult (I was dazzled to achieve anything at all with my curious mix of basic and broken clamps and vice)...

...so there isn't a perfect size-match between the outside of the pipes and the inner diameter of the stainless curves...

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...it's close, but not perfect. I'll need some sort of rubber packing, so when it's bolted on to the ply, it's a good tight fit.

I thought something like ordinary bicycle inner tube is grippy and hard-wearing, but when I proposed using that to pack-out the uneven support behind a U-bolt in recent years, I was warned that it will dry out and harden, losing its useful rubberiness. What's recommended instead?
 
Neoprene sheet, but that will cost almost as much as the right size clips. Neoprene
How about lots of O rings on the pipe or self-amalgamating tape?
I have accumulated lots of the above in my spares boxes in the garage. Don't you have anything similar?
 
Your bicycle inner tube!

Who cares if it dries out and hardens over the years. It will still be in position and doing the job. If it was a bit of gasket, you'd be happy to change it if you broke the joint. ?
 
Inner tube is natural rubber, with a very short life in UV and seawater. Neoprene would probably be a better choice but EPDM has very good resistance to water, maybe not such good resistance to mechanical force. Nitrile is a good compromise.
 
Wow, this is the place to get answers.

Thanks all.

Especially for not telling me how my bracket ought to be attached! ;)
 
It had occurred to me that I could just put thick bolts through the tubing and the plywood, and forget the securing steelwork.

But having made the steel curves, I'm obliged to use them (they took hours...have you ever tried bending stainless plate?)...

...and I think the bracket will be quite a nice piece of work, at least by a DIYer, not working to any plan or earlier example...

...also, I'm sure the rubberised steel curves will grip the tubes more evenly than a couple of holes bored through and pinned.

Thanks for all the suggestions though. (y)
 
It had occurred to me that I could just put thick bolts through the tubing and the plywood, and forget the securing steelwork.

[...]
Being lazy that's what I would have done.

4 coachbolts, 4 dome nuts so it looks tiddly (or wing nuts if you want it easy to remove), 4 penny washers, 4 saddle washers.

Go away and do it again, lad! :ROFLMAO:
 
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Not in this lifetime, mon ami.

I'm rarely the chap who wants to take the time to do it better, but I wouldn't be content with your lazy solution.

Even if I'd thought of it, before doing it the other way.

My way will definitely look better and last longer.
 
My plywood is a concern though. Definitely sold as 1088 marine ply, but the equivalent from Robbins is described as 15-ply...

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Have I been sold something seriously second rate? Will it matter, for an outboard bracket?
.
 
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