what outboard

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Dodgy Diver

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so went out for a second attempt in the boat , I have no idea why but I lost reverse , so had a poodle around for a hour watching s couple of seals playing then headed in again , got it home and cant find anything much other than the new cables needed a little adjusting ( assuming they are settling in after being replaced )

and had issue re starting engine once it sat for 20 mins , assuming I need a insulating plate under the carb so ordered one ,also a new starter as I think its a bit slow

so im beginning to feel I maybe should carry a back up outboard mounted to the swim deck
the boat is a 23ft foruwinns 235 vista
what size should I be looking at and im assuming I would need a tiller controlled unit ? how do I tell if I need long or short
thanks
 
If you just want some steer age and the ability to adjust the course the wind and tide will create, a 5hp or so is fine, but if you want it to "get you home" probably a 15 - which is too heavy to lift on and off easily)....

In both cases trying to get a "High Thrust" motor will help as they have higher thrust and less speed.... They also have a charging circuit so if the reason main engine won't start is flat battery they can recharge it
 
Yamaha will say “High thrust” the others will say “sailpower” or “High thrust” or “Bigfoot”.

The gearcase is bigger, lower gear ratio and larger diameter high thrust prop. They are designed to be auxiliary’s rather than for small light boats.
 
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as you can see this cad drawing is to scale of 1: what ever .... so if I mount a outboard directly inline with the swim deck I need a long shaft . as it says 20 inches needs a long shaft , it also says 15 inches is a short shaft . if my bracket I make lowers it 2.5 inches could I get away with a short shaft ? im really hoping never to need it , but at the moment I have no confidence in the boat , im happy to throw some more money at it but I cant find what's wrong with it , ideally id like a 4 stroke motor then no need for additional fuel tank I can tee off the one I already have . thanks
ps please turn your head 90 degrees to the right when viewing .
 
Most people who have an auxiliary outboard run it off a separate fuel tank to their main engine,for the reason being that if the reason your main engine just stopped is due to a problem with the fuel, that same problem doesn't also prevent your auxiliary outboard from working
 
julians said:
Most people who have an auxiliary outboard run it off a separate fuel tank to their main engine,for the reason being that if the reason your main engine just stopped is due to a problem with the fuel, that same problem doesn't also prevent your auxiliary outboard from working
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yes but I dont have anywhere safe to use a separate fuel tank . the design of the boat wont allow any where to put it , the fuel tank has been cleaned out , all new fuel pipes so should not be a big issue , thanks tho
 
You don't have to lift it off, just let it sit on the bracket.

With a low swimming platform, a rear heavy boat (engine & sterndrive) and a limited length I think the wave problem is theoretical.

You max speed will be the 'hull speed' . There is a formula for the calculation, but waterline length in meters = knots is close enough.
So if your waterline is 6 meter, the hull speed it´s 6 knots.
 
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If it's smooth you are right, but even a small swell will have the bathing atform lifting a ss prop clear of the water unless you can get the mount quite low (level or slightly under the swim platform rather than above it.
 
The bracket design indeed set the baseline.

panther-swim-platform-outboard-motor-bracket-550030-8.gif
 
I have a very similar boat, a regal. I have a basic bracket on the swim platform. I have a 6 hp tohatsu, the sail drive model with the high thrust prop, without the 12v hook up. I also have the same engine but without the high thrust prop on my yacht. They are both long shaft, as the short shaft i tried was way too shallow. It gives perhaps 4-5 knots if i am lucky, and i really dont notice much difference between the two motors. The only difference is the prop i am told, and having tried both on the regal its making no real noticable difference, but on the far heavier yacht in perhaps slows it down better in reverse. The company i bought it from messed up the delivery and upgraded me to the high thrust unit as a thank you, and i think if they had not it would no difference to the regal. The regal has the offboard tank only, the yacht has the inboard and off board. Starting again i would not take the inboard tank, the fuel in it just sits there when everything is running well so i regularly have to decant and refresh it, into the thirsty regals main tank.
 
Dodgy Diver said:
View attachment 136813

as you can see this cad drawing is to scale of 1: what ever .... so if I mount a outboard directly inline with the swim deck I need a long shaft . as it says 20 inches needs a long shaft , it also says 15 inches is a short shaft . if my bracket I make lowers it 2.5 inches could I get away with a short shaft ? im really hoping never to need it , but at the moment I have no confidence in the boat , im happy to throw some more money at it but I cant find what's wrong with it , ideally id like a 4 stroke motor then no need for additional fuel tank I can tee off the one I already have . thanks
ps please turn your head 90 degrees to the right when viewing .
Click to expand...
That won’t work, I’m afraid
 
Dodgy Diver said:
why not ?
Click to expand...
Because the lower unit and prop of the outboard need to be below the hull and in free flowing water from under the hull. Otherwise, it will just pull water and whirlpool from dead water behind the transom of the boat. Honestly. So many have tried that before. Just doesn’t work. You’ll need a bracket like that then a lowering bracket attached to that or something similar. Can’t tell you enough how important it is to have the set up correct. You could stick a 40hp outboard on a set up like that and it would be as useless at a 2hp on the same arrangement
 
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