What outboard?

[jpay]

I have a gallion 22, recommended outboard size is around 5-6hp.

I am going to purchase a new outboard.

Does a standard 6hp have charging facilities and optional morse controls?
I know a saildrive has the charging but does it have the option to fit morse controls?

I'm also at the hurdle of a 5hp saildrive or a 6hp long shaft?

Who is going to help me out here?!

Thank You.

While I'm here, my outboard mounts behind my rudder. The tiller comes through the hull and deck and so would a pulley shackled to the underside of my back rails and then down to the outboards handle. This therefore turning the tiller turns the outboard and gives me more directional steerage? I want to make this out of flexible stainless.

Thanks again

 

[jpay]

I've just seen PBO did an outboard test which sounds perfect, where can I find the result of said test, i missed that copy.

Thanks

 

[seumask]

Keep it simple ignore any charging from the outboard, use a cheap solar panel for that. Get the right length shaft in a Tohatsu/Mariner/Mercury 4,5,6. You can start with the standard prop, these work well despite what you may be pursuaded, and change it if you need to. We did all of this with a 25ft boat, searched this forum over the years IMHO this is the way to go. You don't need to bother turning the outboard for the steering unless you really have masses of close quarters manovering to do.

 

[theoldsalt]

The important feature,whichever O/B you choose is to ensure you fit the correct propeller. If the engine was originally manufactured for a fast runabout it will perform very poorly on a displacement boat.

 

[VicS]

I have a gallion 22, recommended outboard size is around 5-6hp.

I am going to purchase a new outboard.

Does a standard 6hp have charging facilities and optional morse controls?
I know a saildrive has the charging but does it have the option to fit morse controls?

I'm also at the hurdle of a 5hp saildrive or a 6hp long shaft?

Who is going to help me out here?!

Thank You.

While I'm here, my outboard mounts behind my rudder. The tiller comes through the hull and deck and so would a pulley shackled to the underside of my back rails and then down to the outboards handle. This therefore turning the tiller turns the outboard and gives me more directional steerage? I want to make this out of flexible stainless.

Thanks again

6 hp is the minimum size of engine I would consider. I think I might prefer an 8 hp on a 22ft boat

You will have to check the specs of candidate engines to determine whether or not they have battery charging, AC lighting coils or nothing at all.

Sail versions usually do have battery charging. They usually also have a more suitable prop than the standard version. They are also usually a long or extralong shaft model which enables you to mount them deeper so that the prop does not keep coming out of the water.

Battery charging from small outboards is generally pretty pathetic, requiring long periods of running at highish revs to contribute much in the way of electrical power.
Hence the suggestion above to fit a small solar panel.

Most outboards except the very smallest can be fitted with remote controls ... but again check the specs and manufacturers literature.

The tiller can be linked to the tiller.. probably best to devise a system that is quick and easy to connect and disconnect.

Id suggest you look at the Tohatsu engines like Dylan Winter has fitted to Katie L . I forget if he fitted a 6hp or an 8hp


You should be able to obtain a copy of PBOs outboard test from the reprint service http://marinedirectory.ybw.com/reprints/results1.jsp

 

[jpay]

Thanks again,

I thought 8 too until i had a quick look and saw that the jump in price was dramatic.

I think I will go saildrive if I can find at 6 one so I have the prop.

I wanted the battery charger so that I could charge a single battery with the intention of having the engine electric start, I don't like hanging over the back of the boat esp in a swell.

I did think that removing would be a good idea so thought 2 snap shackles in the stainless at each end which would completly free the otiller for sailing.

I am moored in Sandwich and am hoping to buy local, I much prefer face to face sales even if i pay more. Does anyone know of outboard dealers in the south east? I know of a mercury and mariner. Thanks

Also if anyone could scan the pbo test page, just their summary box would be greeeeat

 

[langstonelayabout]

I used a Mercury 4 sail power on my 22' E-Boat; small enough not to weigh too much or be a pain, sail power so it has the large prop and breathes out through the prop hub and also that it has the charging facility that worked well.

I'd recommend you look out for a 4, 5 or 6 with the sail power type prop (not the standard one) and certainly don't go any bigger. If you use much power you can top-up with a solar panel too. No larger.

And it fou are up to it; look out for a used 2-stroke sail power outboard. I've just bought a 2006 Mariner sail power for my Pegasus 700 to replace the 9.9 4-stroke monstrosity it came with. Far, far better, and only 1/3 the weight too...

 

[jwilson]

5-6 should be quite adequate: I've used a 3.5 and 4 hp on a Ruffian 23, and 4 and 6 hp on two Hurley 22s. The only one that was noticeably underpowered was the 3.5. As others have said, the standard prop always seems to work OK. Charging on small outboards is pretty feeble, you may be better to ignore that and get a solar panel.

 

[dylanwinter]

6hp

v happy with the Tohatsu so far

but only had it a year

gets the 23 foot 1 tonne boat going at hull speed at 1/3 revs

I am on the Humber so strong tides

never felt short of power

it really seems to chuck out the electrical power

my back-up is the Honda 2.3 which also shifts the boat

I would not want an engine any heavier than the Tohatsu as I remove the engine and put it into the cabin when I am not aboard

D

 

[Lakesailor]

The Tohatsu, Mariner and Mercury are all the self-same motor. The 4,5,6 hp are the same motor with different carbs.
The Tohatsu are the cheaper (makes little sense).
Different models/manufacturer badges have different specs. Some integral tank only, some integral plus external connection, some for external tank only.

Electrics, leg length and saildrive are options which probably again, cost more for the Mercury versions that the others.

Remote controls (throttle and gears) require a control box (about £120) cables (about £30, depends on length) and a fitting kit (about £140 for Tohatsu or £190 for Mercury - they are identical)

Steering you need to work out to suit yourself, if you feel you need it. Fitting a wheel and cable steering would be unnecessary and over-complicated.

Face-to-face may give you peace of mind, but there really are good deals to be had by shopping about. You may find a dealer who will do everything for a good package price.

Secondhand motors are not to be sneezed at. I have had a 4hp Mariner 4 stroke for £375 and a 5HP Tohatsu 4 stroke for £400 both of which were nearly unused.

 

[jpay]

I've gone for the Tohatsu, only 6hp saildrive available from my local retailer.
Thanks for all the help people.

 

[Lakesailor]

That will be ideal.