What *doesn't* stick to epoxy?

[oldsaltoz]

Get yourself a roll of craft tape, it has a silicon coating and nothing sticks to it, been using for years, also handy to protect area you don't want any resin to get onto.

If you need the thread pull on tight, it's very thin and will fit snug on the thread, otherwise just wrap and go.

No mess, no contamination.

Good luck and fair winds.

 

[nigelmercier]

Is the idea that the epoxy becomes the "nut"? If so, forget it, it won't work.

 

[Kelpie]

Thanks all. Just waiting on the epoxy going off now. Will give the machine screws a twiddle as soon as I dare.
I went with the PTFE tape in the end, plus brown parcel tape in other areas.
Not trying to make the cured epoxy act as a threaded nut.

 

[cimo]

I would never allow vaseline to be used in the composite shop. If you put it on too thickly it could be 'lifted off' when you puddle the epoxy around the bolt and contaminate the epoxy in the boundary area and weaken any threaded portions for fasteners. It might work, but it might compromise other things. Not good working practice. Stick to waxes or PVA.

The standard tape for all 'non-stick' work is brown parcel tape. It's thin and can be used to form super smooth mould surfaces.

smear a bit on (talking about the bolt of course ), then literally wipe it off. The fine film forms a sufficient barrier. For the task in hand, not bad practice at all imo.

 

[Kelpie]

Just to update, PTFE tape on the threads worked a treat.

 

[Poignard]

Is the idea that the epoxy becomes the "nut"? If so, forget it, it won't work.

I don't think you're right.

I went on a WEST epoxying course and the instructor demonstrated the strength of epoxy by bonding an eye-bolt into a hole into a substantial piece of timber and then putting it into a hydraulic test rig which applied a load to the eye bolt. The bond between eye-bolt did not fail but the timber broke.


http://www.westsystem.com/ss/testing-large-bonded-in-fasteners/