What do you recommend for rust on bilge keels

The problem with rust killers is they break down eventually and the rust returns. The best thing to do grind the rust back to bare metal then apply a coat of zinc rich epoxy paint, then three coats of underwater epoxy paint. You need to apply the first coat within ten to fifteen minutes of getting to bare steel. If you can't do that then do small areas over a period of time allowing the zinc epoxy paint to set, before moving on.
 
KellysEye said:
The problem with rust killers is they break down eventually and the rust returns. The best thing to do grind the rust back to bare metal then apply a coat of zinc rich epoxy paint, then three coats of underwater epoxy paint. You need to apply the first coat within ten to fifteen minutes of getting to bare steel. If you can't do that then do small areas over a period of time allowing the zinc epoxy paint to set, before moving on.
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I had a bilge keeler for eight years. At first the rust was quite extensive but after three or four years of treatment with Hammerite No1 Rustbeater no more rust appeared. I only removed the loose rust and never ground back to bare metal, but I did build up the paint with at least two coats and sometimes more.
 
Why not?

onesea said:
I understand although called rust remover this is used to remove rust stains and streak's on paint work. And should NOT be used on bare steel...
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I have used Phosphoric Acid, have witnessed others and know of quite a few who do use it….. so what (if any) is the issue? :confused:

Obvious precautions applied etc.

What we all use for removal of Rust Oxide on paintwork and Gel-Coat is Oxalic Acid.

For Phosphoric Acid see here.
 
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HunterWanderer said:
Remove the loose rust and spray with zinc rich aerosol from halfords then just paint with AF
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Halfords....... sounds good...Ok.. I have bilge keels...how many cans will do it. I am now bamboozled with all your advice......and shall get the Marina Yard to have a quick look at what THEY think is 'Rusty'......and how bad or needy it appears. thank you
 
I use Epoxy mastic paint from Rust.co.uk
on my steel ketch and it works very well above and below the waterline. One of its strong points is that it does not run off edges and corners, something most paints do and where rsut spots usually reappear.

I also use their FE-123 rust converter which does not breakdown or need rinsing off.

The epoxy mastic retains some flexibility, and is reasonably easy to sand. It does have one drawback, which is also its virtue. Because it doesn't flow away from edges and corners, it doesn't self level so brush marks will show. I found that a paint pad is best for a smooth finish.

Two or three coats of this will last for years.

I
 
Im almost ready now to attack those keels......I bought fertan......yard dont think the keels are too bad.....so my plan now is to play with man tools and grind off small patches......(I have been told about sparks..and hair).... after which I can spray fertan (furtan!!)...... Im guessing I can antifoul within the next month??? and do you have to NICE weather for this whole procedure??? Much to amusement of the Marina I have cleaned and polished the upperside hull to almost a mirror...... by polish and soft rag!! feeling smug :-)
 
MoodySabre said:
Fetan will dry quickly. I usually grind off, Fertan and underwater primer on one day and antifoul the next.
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:confused: Ouuu..do I have to gind off the fertan after applying only it says on the spray can you can wash off..... then apply antifoul after 48hrs...... Opps just read your post properly.......:) Ok that would make more sence. I only have little moody keels......so no probs then thanx
 
Csidegirlie,

Please ensure that nearby boats are protected from any sparks created during grinding. Some yards actually ban grinding.

Those sparks are red got pieces of metal that can melt into gelcoat and show when they rust. If it happens that's a sure way to make enemies of your neighbours in the yard.
 
theoldsalt said:
Csidegirlie,

Please ensure that nearby boats are protected from any sparks created during grinding. Some yards actually ban grinding.

Those sparks are red got pieces of metal that can melt into gelcoat and show when they rust. If it happens that's a sure way to make enemies of your neighbours in the yard.
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:rolleyes: Its ok..... the yard are keeping an eye on my progress and offering adivice to..... was told to use the metal grinder by helpful staff... I dont think I have to worry because if the sparks do fly IM STOPPING..... after all I am a girlie....
 
Csidegirlie said:
:rolleyes: Its ok..... the yard are keeping an eye on my progress and offering adivice to..... was told to use the metal grinder by helpful staff... I dont think I have to worry because if the sparks do fly IM STOPPING..... after all I am a girlie....
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It's not just the sparks, but the clouds of rusty dust that drifts over every-ones boats [and cars].
Learn how to look innocent when people start complaing about brown spots appearing after it rains.:eek:
 
MoodySabre said:
Fetan will dry quickly. I usually grind off, Fertan and underwater primer on one day and antifoul the next.
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I'll second this. The first year I removed nearly all the antifouling, ground down the rust patches, washed down and coated with Fertan. I then applied about 4/5 coats of Primacon before antifouling. Take trouble to do it right, and it will last.
Each year I now just have a few small spots which I wire brush and patch prime before antifouling.
 
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