What do you recommend for rust on bilge keels

Csidegirlie

Csidegirlie

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Befor I think about anitfouling I know I need to address the keels which once my husband put red oxide on........we have been using self eroding antifoul for the past two years which I have ready to use..... should I look for a Rust preventor (I think thats what he had planned)...if you think yes.....can you tell me what to buy and what would better as I am not using undercoat...just the Self Eroding.
 
Csidegirlie said:
Befor I think about anitfouling I know I need to address the keels which once my husband put red oxide on........we have been using self eroding antifoul for the past two years which I have ready to use..... should I look for a Rust preventor (I think thats what he had planned)...if you think yes.....can you tell me what to buy and what would better as I am not using undercoat...just the Self Eroding.
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clean off rust,apply international primocon then A/f
 
I have a fin keel that shows a bit of rust. I take the rusty bits back to shiny with an anglegrinder and flapwheel, immediately treated with rust converter (Vactan from ebay shop is good and cheap) and use an underwater primer before AF. That works very well with only small patches each year that need doing. You'll never stop the rust completely unless you have expensive work done.
 
Epoxy works as well as anything.
Which is not ever so well on any boat that grounds.
The only answer is a lead keel!
 
Epoxy is to be avoided unless it's the right stuff applied by experts or with their advice; otherwise it makes a 'skin' on the keel which when inevitably gets chipped or cracked allows salt water in, and traps it alongside the metal 24/7, all year every few remaining year...
 
Csidegirlie said:
Befor I think about anitfouling I know I need to address the keels which once my husband put red oxide on........we have been using self eroding antifoul for the past two years which I have ready to use..... should I look for a Rust preventor (I think thats what he had planned)...if you think yes.....can you tell me what to buy and what would better as I am not using undercoat...just the Self Eroding.
Click to expand...

How you apply it depends on the present condition. IE if the keels are smooth and nothing more than some minor pimples of discoloration thare is no need to strip down. Just wash and give a good coat of Primocon over the current coat of antifoul after cleaning in way of the pimples of rust. This gives a good tie coat and also seems to offer protection. Follow this with the anti foul.

If there is serious rusting then the keels may need taking back to bare metal either in part or totally and then restarting the paint process with a few coats of Primocon onto the bare metal followed by antifoul.

Usually an electric sanding disk will be fine but do wear a suitable mask and beware spraying dust over your neighbours boats. Damping down the surface can help reduce the dust.

Heaven knows how the sandwich effect works but this has been done on my Westerly for years following a shot blast and kept the rust at bay.
 
Some chandlers sell a metal primer G4 which I applied before applying Primacon and antifoul in 2006 and have only ever applied a seasonal coat of antifoul since, although there is a few areas with small collections of rust blisters which appear progressivley from oct to april.
The primar (G4) is like thick varnish but cures rock hard.
C_W
 
Owatrol every time. Clean back to shiny metal as best as you can then paint with Owatrol. It seems to get into any pits and crevices and provides a superb sealed surface. I put several coats on then paint with whatever u choose. My boat is steel and it really works for me. No reason to say this other than satisfied user!
 
I think it is a waste of time just priming on top of rust even if the loose is removed. Rust blisters will return how ever many coats of primer are added.
To prevent these blisters the remaining rust should be treated with a rust converter. I have used Hammerite Kurust with great success. I then prime with several coats of Hempel underwater primer (I have found Primacon less effective).

The advantage of Kurust is not just that it is a rust converter but also that it is water based so any moisture left in the porous cast iron keel 9and there always is) does not affect it.

I have found this even more effective than removing the rust completely back to shiny metal as the rust seems to return.
 
theoldsalt said:
To prevent these blisters the remaining rust should be treated with a rust converter. I have used Hammerite Kurust with great success. I then prime with several coats of Hempel underwater primer (I have found Primacon less effective).
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I'll look out for that (Kurust) next time...

For the last few years I've just cleaned, wire brushed and used standard Hammerite.... for a "decorative garden product" (as one of my fellow forumites called it :o) I've been pleased with the result.... I antifoul straight on top of that.... like the OP I'm on a mud mooring....
 
Old Glow In The Deeps said:
Which Acid it is ….. I think it’s Phosphoric (on clean metal). :confused: :rolleyes:
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I understand although called rust remover this is used to remove rust stains and streak's on paint work. And should NOT be used on bare steel...

A rust converter is what you are looking for I use Ferrotan then a couple of coats of primer or hammerite or both and a layer of underbcoat then generous quantity of paint.

MY understanding is the more paint you put on the more chance you have of stopping rust coming back..

I have pondered using Ferotan then epoxy, but never got that far...

Now have lead keel...
 
Fantasie 19 said:
I'll look out for that (Kurust) next time...

For the last few years I've just cleaned, wire brushed and used standard Hammerite.... for a "decorative garden product" (as one of my fellow forumites called it :o) I've been pleased with the result.... I antifoul straight on top of that.... like the OP I'm on a mud mooring....
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Two coats of Hammerite No 1 Rustbeater works well and does not need to be redone each year. Cheap too at B&Q.
 
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