What colour wire for an anode earthing wire?

[MYStargazer]

Is there some sort of convention for this?

I want to redo my wiring (32' mobo) entirely, so I want it all to be done properly... starting with the wires to the anodes.

I thought of yellow and green striped, but what about plain yellow?

Should I use a single-core or one with lots of little copper wires inside (wouldn't this absorb more water - these'll be in the bilges?)?

Thanks, folks! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

SJ

 

[jerryat]

I use yellow/green striped. Because cathodic protection is the only place on the boat it's used, it makes the annual checking of continuity, connections etc that much easier.

 

[BobnLesley]

If the connections are good, it'll work irrespective of colour. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I used single cored cable for precisely the same reason that you suggest, this probably makes it more susceptable to breakage due to vibration, though ours has been in place for six years without problem.

Bob.

PS ours is yellow/green which is kind of nice on the basis that it is a sort of 'earthing' wire, but to be honest, I think it was selected on the basis of what came to hand rather than any serious consideration.

 

[tangomoon]

Yellow and green - you know where you are then

BOL

 

[philip_stevens]

Because it is down in the bilges, dip the end in some oil before crimping the lug onto it. The oil will "wick up" into the cable and prevent corrosion.

You could also grease the end and apply a heat gun to allow the molten grease to run down into the cable.

Then crimp and either tape with self adhesive or adhesive heat-shrink tubing.

 

[MYStargazer]

That's a good idea! Is it necessary if it's only a lump of copper and not a bundle of wires?

 

[PuffTheMagicDragon]

Be careful that the oil does not soften the insulation. There exist special crimps that also seal the end of the wire but I don't know about availability. If you really want to dip, consider molten wax.

 

[VicS]

From the MG Duff website:

Bonding The Cathodic Protection System

The correct bonding of the cathodic protection system is imperative.

Use 4mm² PVC Insulated Multi-Stranded Single Core Copper Cable or larger.

Ensure that all connections are clean and tight.



No mention of colour but multi-stranded and quite a heavy gauge.

 

[whipper_snapper]

[ QUOTE ]
Because it is down in the bilges, dip the end in some oil before crimping the lug onto it. The oil will "wick up" into the cable and prevent corrosion.

You could also grease the end and apply a heat gun to allow the molten grease to run down into the cable.

Then crimp and either tape with self adhesive or adhesive heat-shrink tubing.

[/ QUOTE ]

Surely crimp first ? Otherwise you are preventing the metal-to-metal contact you need ? Not just metal to lug, but also the strand to strand connection within the wire which you need at the lug end ??

 

[LadyInBed]

Use uninsulated wire or braid wiped down with grease, then you don't have to have sleepless nights over what colour it should be and you can see any corrosion starting to form and do something about it.

 

[philip_stevens]

[ QUOTE ]

Surely crimp first ?

[/ QUOTE ]

Not really, if you use a professional crimper and not the cheap and nasty crimpers.


I'll go along with the comment about oil. I was thinking of silicone oil.

A good idea to melt wax, though.

Liquid Electrical Tape could also be applied after crimping - similar to Dip 'n Whip.

 

[[448]]

I believe that blue covered wire has, size for size, a greater co-efficient of conductivity. I would use that.
Dave

 

[grumpy_o_g]

I found this thread when searching for the supplier of heatshrink terminals http://www.ybw.com/forums/showflat.php?Number=1865452

This supplier here from it has the waterproof ones I've used. Look for the ones with "Adhesive Lined" in the description. One word of caution - make sure they have insulation over the open end away from the end you put the cable in, if that makes sense. Also make sure you don't catch the isulation when you fasten the terminal down.

Single core or stranded won't make much odds - you'll normally get a slightly better crimp on single core, especially if you're not that used to doing them. You focussed on the critical piece though - the connections. A slightly dodgy connection and the resistance shoots up but, unlike in other circuits, you won't see any symptoms (until you lift out anyway!). The connections are usually somewhere hidden and manky which makes it even more likely that connection will cause problems if it isn't perfect.

One thing you may want to consider is how you could easily test the resistance on a regular basis. I've never seen this done on a boat but on aircraft it's considered essential maintenance (the bonding on aircraft is to make sure you can't get a spark occuring because of static electricity building up in one part of the airframe only).

 

[MYStargazer]

[ QUOTE ]
I believe that blue covered wire has, size for size, a greater co-efficient of conductivity. I would use that.
Dave

[/ QUOTE ]

/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Thanks for all the ideas, folks!

 

[flyingscampi]

I always use the tinned copper wire and connectors made by Ancor marine. Most chandleries stock their products. Good quality but not the cheapest.

Ancor Wire
Ancor Connectors
Ancor Marine

 

[MYStargazer]

Thanks. It's hard enough getting multicore soldering wire here in Spain...