What are all those anchors doing lying on pallets in the yard ?

In the yard that my boat is in for the winter, the vast majority empty and wash and clean out their chain lockers. They then stow their chains in such a way that the chain is in an airy, and preferably dry, salt free environment. What's not to like? I wouldn't recommend leaving any equipment dirty, salty and damp for several months.

With my previous and much bigger boat, with much heavier chain, I wintered in a fresh water canal, and there I copied the offshore oil industry, and kept my chain in the "Deep Store" I.e. the bottom of the canal, for the winter.
 
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Some muds are anaerobic and have organisms in them the 'excrete' a sulphur based compound (that possibly converts to sulphuric acid) that eats the galvanising. Its a big problem in commercial harbours and in some anchorages. Chains are retrieved black, not from mud, but it is the result of chemical corrossion.

Jonathan
 
In the yard that my boat is in for the winter, the vast majority empty and wash and clean out their chain lockers. They then stow their chains in such a way that the chain is in an airy, and preferably dry, salt free environment. What's not to like? I wouldn't recommend leaving any equipment dirty, salty and damp for several months.

Exactly. The galvanising on wet chain will corrode, converting to zinc hydroxide. This will inevitably shorten the life of the chain. I tie a rope between the supports of the cradle beneath the boat and hang the chain on that for the winter, with all of the chain off the ground. This amusing photograph shows what happens to galvanising left wet. The line around the galvanised upright is corroded zinc where the rope was, remaining wetter for longer than the surrounding metal.
P4280018_zpsb94468c4.jpg
 
Exactly. The galvanising on wet chain will corrode, converting to zinc hydroxide. This will inevitably shorten the life of the chain. I tie a rope between the supports of the cradle beneath the boat and hang the chain on that for the winter, with all of the chain off the ground. This amusing photograph shows what happens to galvanising left wet. The line around the galvanised upright is corroded zinc where the rope was, remaining wetter for longer than the surrounding metal.
P4280018_zpsb94468c4.jpg

I was hoping that Vyv would chip in. Definitive answer. Thanks.
 
Exactly. The galvanising on wet chain will corrode, converting to zinc hydroxide. This will inevitably shorten the life of the chain. I

My chain always comes out of the locker bone dry, right to the end, unless it has been used in the last couple of days. I think that's because the locker is well drained and well ventilated. If people have problems with chain rotting in the locker, it might be wise to do something about it year-round, and not just for the four or five coldest months of the year when chemical reactions like corrosion are at their slowest anyway.
 
My chain always comes out of the locker bone dry, right to the end, unless it has been used in the last couple of days. I think that's because the locker is well drained and well ventilated. If people have problems with chain rotting in the locker, it might be wise to do something about it year-round, and not just for the four or five coldest months of the year when chemical reactions like corrosion are at their slowest anyway.

My chain gets wet every night. :rolleyes:
 
We usually do it as;

1. Nearly everybody else does it, so I feel comfortable about it; ;)

2. We like to empty and wash out the chain locker while on the hard;

3. The weight thing isn't a major concern but I do suppose that 60m of 10mm must be at least 120kg, all at one end, so it is a consideration;

4. The rain washes the salt off the chain;

5. The pallet stops mud and grit adhering to the chain;

6. Errrmm, that's it.
 
My chain always comes out of the locker bone dry, right to the end, unless it has been used in the last couple of days. I think that's because the locker is well drained and well ventilated. If people have problems with chain rotting in the locker, it might be wise to do something about it year-round, and not just for the four or five coldest months of the year when chemical reactions like corrosion are at their slowest anyway.

I suppose it depends to some extent on the design of the locker but I have yet to see one with a lid that is watertight. Unless the chain was dry and salt free when loaded into the locker I imagine it would take an extremely long time to dry, given that the ventilation is via two small drain holes (1/2 inch?) and the entry from the windlass.
 
I suppose it depends to some extent on the design of the locker but I have yet to see one with a lid that is watertight. Unless the chain was dry and salt free when loaded into the locker I imagine it would take an extremely long time to dry, given that the ventilation is via two small drain holes (1/2 inch?) and the entry from the windlass.

Lid? Mine sits behind a door in the forecabin, and the ventilation is through/around that. Sounds as if some chain locker design is a tad deficient.
 
Lid? Mine sits behind a door in the forecabin, and the ventilation is through/around that. Sounds as if some chain locker design is a tad deficient.

Deficient indeed, a well designed chain locker is separated from the accommodation by a watertight bulkhead. Who wants water, mud and weed in the same airspace as the forecabin? :D
 
Unusually for me, I'm reiterating.

Chain lockers will never dry out. If you sail in any sort of weather there will be constant seawater coming through the lid from waves breaking over the bow. The chain will have mud on it and if of any age will have some rust. The chain and locker are a salt laden environment - even in cool weather and the yacht on the hard the locker will be damp - and sufficient to encourage further corrosion. Drains are seldom at the bottom of the locker and there is always a pool, sometimes quite large of concentrated salt water at the bottom of the locker.

Ideally you should be constantly washing the locker (and the chain) with fresh water and making sure the drain holes are free. If its raining, open the locker lid - let the rain wash the chain, at anchor open the lid, let air circulate.

Also ideally, if there is room, you should instal a grate at the bottom of the locker so that the chain does not sit in that inevitable pool, and you allow the chain to drain.

And then if you store the yacht on the hard through the winter, empty the locker, wash the locker, wash the chain (decent high pressure freshwater hose) and store the chain on a pallet or Vyv's washing line (which, the washing line, ensures the chain is as dry as can be). Try to have the chain under the yacht, it does not need to sit in the rain for 4 months. Do not wash the chain with anything except fresh water. Do not store on the ground - the ground will retain moisture. Whilst at it - check the state of the windlass motor and maybe prepare and paint the outer casing or recoat with something to reduce corossion.

And when re-installing the chain, or earlier, update the length marks.

If you wanted to paint the anchor - the best time is as soon as you lift onto the hard - the anchor should be well abraded from use with minimal corossion - in 4 months time it will look like that anchor in Vyv's image, above, hanging in the background - a rather tasteful rust brown colour - which will need quite a bit of preparation before painting.

Jonathan
 
Deficient indeed, a well designed chain locker is separated from the accommodation by a watertight bulkhead. Who wants water, mud and weed in the same airspace as the forecabin? :D

That might be one definition, I suppose. I can't say I have ever noticed a smell (to be fair, the vent is by my feet) and I rather like having dry, non-rusty chain.
 
Unusually for me, I'm reiterating.

Unusually?

Chain lockers will never dry out. If you sail in any sort of weather there will be constant seawater coming through the lid from waves breaking over the bow.

Lid?

And when re-installing the chain, or earlier, update the length marks.

By how much does your chain stretch in an average season?

If you wanted to paint the anchor - the best time is as soon as you lift onto the hard - the anchor should be well abraded from use with minimal corossion - in 4 months time it will look like that anchor in Vyv's image, above, hanging in the background - a rather tasteful rust brown colour - which will need quite a bit of preparation before painting.

Why would one paint an anchor?
 
JD, very Droll. The marks wear out, fall off, disappear - but maybe you have a way of permanent marking - in which case, please share.

Of course if you do not use your chain the marks will remain pristine - maybe you should get out more :)

Jonathan
 
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If you wanted to paint the anchor - the best time is as soon as you lift onto the hard - the anchor should be well abraded from use with minimal corossion - in 4 months time it will look like that anchor in Vyv's image, above, hanging in the background - a rather tasteful rust brown colour - which will need quite a bit of preparation before painting.

Jonathan

The brown colour is primer, ready for two coats of white topcoat. My Rocna is now so rusty that paint is almost essential and the white colour is very helpful in the clear Med waters.

I don't understand the comments on anchor locker lids. It seems to me that on every new boat test in YM and PBO there is an anchor locker forward, always with a lid, often with the windlass inside it. The locker is totally separate from the accommodation, with its own drain(s). I have owned a boat with a lidless anchor locker, it was a total PITA, requiring crew below to stack the chain while somebody else hauled it aboard. Maybe successful with a very deep locker aft but very few boats have that luxury.
 
"Ideally you should be constantly washing the locker (and the chain) with fresh water and making sure the drain holes are free. If its raining, open the locker lid - let the rain wash the chain, at anchor open the lid, let air circulate.

Also ideally, if there is room, you should instal a grate at the bottom of the locker so that the chain does not sit in that inevitable pool, and you allow the chain to drain. " Neeves


Good points.

In the South West of England, mother nature does a fine job of constantly washing out the locker, I just tie back the lid.

Another idea; I always have two or three pieces of old anode in there towards the bottom of the stack
 
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