What’s these hull fittings made of?

Gixer

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Is there any way of working out what these fittings are made of? I know I should know but I fitted them over 15 years ago and didn’t write it down. Everything worked fine but due to age I thought I’d take them off and replace.
Now I’ve taken everything apart they look to be in great condition, the skin fitting looks fine and strong, the valve has cleaned up nice and the strainer looks fine. I don’t want to replace things for the sake of it and wonder if it’s worth reusing some if they are bronze, dzr, etc. what do you think?
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Thanks vyv_cox, I’ve been studying your page but can’t work out what I’ve got.
To replace the lot with DZR and a new bronze strainer looks to be about £140, we‘re only talking 1/2 inch…
I’d be tempted to keep my old strainer but I believe there’s a fitting on the bottom of it and I can’t get it out.

I’ll have a look for markings tomorrow penfold.
 
I wouldn't but then I'm prejudiced against external strainers as they're impossible to clean or antifoul properly without removing the things. Unless your home mooring has a lot of garbage in the water liable to get sucked onto the inlet they seem a bit superfluous.
 
As per previous threads, suggest replace with DZR plain skin fitting (those filter/scoops are really unnecessary), DZR ball valve and plastic filter above the waterline. like this - except this is 3/4". Does not have to be as close to the engine so long as you can get to the lid.
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Thanks Tranona,

Sorry, I know I’ve got another thread similar to this. I just keep going back and forward.

I’ve actually bought trudesign standard skin fitting, valve and a Vetus filter like yours. To fit them just requires modifications where as the fittings I have will drop back in and have worked faultless since I’ve had the boat.

Do I want to change things and possibly cause more problems??
 
No reason not to re-use the current bits. They look fine - the skin fitting and strainer housing are almost certainly bronze and if the ball valve works smoothly and no sign of dezincification in the threads that will be OK. The problem most people have with their seacocks is that, as Vyv says many have brass fittings which dezincify. Even brass valves last well because there is nothing in them that corrodes apart from sometimes the spindle. So your setup avoids the the weak points. A DZR 1/2" ball valve is not expensive so if you have any doubts you could just fit a new one and sell your plastic bits on here if you don't want to use them in the future.
 
I cut the bit I mangled with a hammer off the through hull and the metal looks really clean. Think I’ll buy a new ball valve, as you say they are cheap and the old hose tail doesn’t look great.
Next question is what to use on the threads between the fittings.
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