Wet Rudder

[LONG_KEELER]

I have brought it back home. Fibreglass with foam innards. Quite a lump, 8ft long and weighing about 30 kilos.

It's indoors and I have access to electricity.

What's the quickest way to dry it Out ? I have drilled holes but it's slow going.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Tranona]

No quick way. Stand upright for drainage and in warm place for evaporation. Good thing the process is continuous - even when you are asleep!

 

[burgundyben]

Or cut it open and hook out all the old foam?

 

[Boathook]

Put it in a sealed room with a dehumidifier set to maximum dryness ?

 

[robmcg]

I have used some absorbent cloth twisted into the drain holes then left hanging under the rudder in the past. It did 'encourage' the moisture out a bit more quickly than just letting the holes drain, I assume because the cloth had more surface area open to evaporation.

 

[Poignard]

I left mine in the airing cupboard for several months whilst the boat was laid up for the winter.

 

[penfold]

Or cut it open and hook out all the old foam?

+1 This is the only quick way; split the mouldings, remove the contaminated and probably ruined core, repair any damage to the lay-up, and then reverse the procedure with new foam and lashings of epoxy.

 

[All_at_Sea]

Wet and Dry Vacuum cleaner.

 

[LONG_KEELER]

Thanks for the replies - All good.

Splitting the rudder is definitely a consideration ,but if it all goes wrong it's a bit too close to my launch day and most marinas and fitters are choc full of work.

The rudder is stockless and a lifter. It lives in a stainless bracket, lifted and dropped by a tackle fastened to the backstay. It is then fastened by three threaded clamps. I'm not certain how it is constructed. The rudder has a gash, and when grinding back I noticed a vertical threaded stainless bar . I'm guessing there are a number of these inside.

How about an electric blanket wrapped round. ?

 

[Neeves]

Rudders are usually built round a frame that is welded to a stock. The foam is laid up, sanded to the correct profile and then fibreglass coated. Its not a big job. They leak at the point where the stock interfaces with the fibreglass or at a split round the edge, this is often originally taped. The weight comes from the stock and the stainless frame inside. I'd sand it down to glass where I think the leak(s) might be. I suspect if you don't split it then it will take a long time to dry out, whatever means you employ to speed things up. Splitting it means you can check the frame inside.

I'd split the rudder round its periphery, remove all the foam, add back new foam and glue and tape the 2 halves together, filling where necessary. If I had plenty of time I'd make new foam and completely new glass. If I had plenty of money I'd make the stock and frame from carbon fibre - and save some weight. If you go the new foam route - simply take profits down the length of the rudder - and then you can sand your new rudder to the same profiles. Sanding foam is easy - but dusty. If you simply repair what you have you need to be sure you have found the source of all the leaks, so drain and rotate, drain and rotate - and define where it drips.

I know you say it is stockless - but it will, I suspect, have the vestige of an internal stock to which the framed is welded. and to which the bracket is bolted (directly or indirectly)/. The bolt holes may be the source of the leak(s). These might need some extra resin to stop the fibreglass flexing (and leaking?)

Jonathan

 

[Rhylsailer99]

mine had a bodged previous repair so i just cut a big hole in it scraped out all the old foam and left it leaning against a radiator in my house all winter. my girlfriend was not impressed. i followed boatworks youtube tutorial exactly and its mint now.