Westerly Pentland rudder bushing replacement.

[riosdad]

Hello,
I need to replace the rudder bushings in my Westerly Pentland because of excessive play in the rudder stock.
I have looked around the internet and found that the Trafalgar yacht services seem to be the only spares suppliers, is this correct?
Do any of you have any tips, snag warnings or advice on this bearing and seal replacement?
Any information would be appreciated.
Many thanks,
Alan...............

 

[Jcorstorphine]

This might help.

Hello,
I need to replace the rudder bushings in my Westerly Pentland because of excessive play in the rudder stock.
I have looked around the internet and found that the Trafalgar yacht services seem to be the only spares suppliers, is this correct?
Do any of you have any tips, snag warnings or advice on this bearing and seal replacement?
Any information would be appreciated.
Many thanks,
Alan...............

I changed the water seal on my Pentland rudder and it was pretty straightforward. Seem to recall I dug a hole under the rudder to get it clear. All I did was dig the hole, cover it with a plank of wood and supported the rudder while I removed the internal rudder stock. Lowered the rudder, changed the seal and just put it back together. To be honest it was one of the easier job I have ever done on a boat. I cannot recall anything about the bearing however. That was on a 79 boat and it was about 1995 (ish)

Sold my Pentland in 1998 and still miss it, great boat, **** Volvo engine though.

Regards
John

 

[Bilgediver]

Hello,
I need to replace the rudder bushings in my Westerly Pentland because of excessive play in the rudder stock.
I have looked around the internet and found that the Trafalgar yacht services seem to be the only spares suppliers, is this correct?
Do any of you have any tips, snag warnings or advice on this bearing and seal replacement?
Any information would be appreciated.
Many thanks,
Alan...............

These bushings are easily made by any competent machinist and usually not for very much. Have you checked around your locality?

Competent means knowing what to allow for swelling if this is likely to happen


Good job for making as a homer on board a rig or ship!!!!!! LoL

 

[Neil_Y]

Swelling should be well characterised you should get clearances for thermal and moisture swell to give running clearances. This table is an example for rudder or shaft bearings. If your buying from a marine engineer they will know these details for the material they use.
http://www.h4marine.com/Downloads/Maritex AQUARIUS General Calculator REV 20100519.xls

Many people raise concerns ove the moisture swell but in many materials it is the thermal swell which is greater. Upper rudder bearings on a sunny day can get quite warm but the lower one should stay close to sea temp and then only have to deal with moisture absorption.

 

[riosdad]

Pentland rudder bushings.

Hello again,

Many thanks for the replies and information.

Bilgediver: I know of a competent machinist that is a rig mechanic and would gladly do the job but can't get the time on shift due to spending his time trying to keep a brand new deepwater drillship on the money with a not so nice maritime hydraulics drilling package. I do appreciate the thought though big man ! Thanks.

All the very best,
Alan..............

 

[Bilgediver]

Hello again,

Many thanks for the replies and information.

Bilgediver: I know of a competent machinist that is a rig mechanic and would gladly do the job but can't get the time on shift due to spending his time trying to keep a brand new deepwater drillship on the money with a not so nice maritime hydraulics drilling package. I do appreciate the thought though big man ! Thanks.

All the very best,
Alan..............

Ohhhhh Happy memories.....Maritime Hydraulics... Top drives and more!!!

Im sure Mr Stena wouldn t mind if we borrowed a mechanic while his Rolls Royce drilling package turned to the right..

 

[Bodach na mara]

Done it myself on my Renown. The only difference is that I did not need to dig a hole; nice big fin keel to keep me clear of the ground. From what I remember, dismantling goes as follows:

1. Obtain a length of about 16" of approx 3/4" diameter bar and a large nail punch to use as drift. Then place something under the rudder to support it. I used a workmate and some wooden blocks.
2. release the steering quadrant and set aside. Make sure no-one turns the wheel until the job is complete. Removing the wheen may be a good idea.
3. There is a collar under the quadrant thst takes the weight. It rests on the upper face of the top bearing. There is a bolt through it (and the shaft) Remove the nut from this bolt and drift it out.
4. This collar is NOT threaded on the shaft. It must be persuaded to come up and off and it is a tight fit. Small chissels, large poger screwdrivers and other tools were pressed into service.
5. Once the collar is off, get down and remove the support and lower the rudder. There is only about 25" of shaft.
6. Drift out the bearings, top from below and bottom from above.

 

[riosdad]

Hello "Wight Dawn" Ken,

Many thanks for that task description, that was what I was looking for. My boat is sat on a railway type bogie so she is sitting high enough for the work without the need for mining.

Have you ever written up planned maintenance procedures? If not then you should!!

All the very best,
Alan................

 

[Bodach na mara]

Thanks for your comments Alan. I wish I had taken notes and photographs of the job when I was doing it. I cannot remember how the quadrant comes off. I also cannot remember whether there is a key locating it on the rudder shaft or if it is on the squared section of the shaft. I will remember when I get over to Largs and look at the assembly but cannot sommon up the enthusiasm in the fog today. I will be over probably within the next week or so. I do remember turning the collar I mentioned with mole grips to try to unscrew it, which was a waste of time as it is just a very tight fit on the shaft. If you have a puller of some sort, that would be useful. Oh, and do NOT touch any of the bolts on the flanges on the rudder stock tube. You do not want to disturb that.

I have had the rudder out twice since I bought the boat in 1997. The first time was, in 1998, to get blisters on the rudder looked at by a repair expert. His advice finally was just to leave them! It was during that removal that I found out how disasterous it is to move the wheel. The graunching sound I heard was the steering wires getting knackered. I had suspicions about them anyway as I had cut my hand on a broken strand of wire while releasing them from the quadrant. I ended up fitting hydraulic steering as I could not source new insert cables. They were very stiff anyway.

I am glad to hear you will not need to do any excavation. I had to do some with ny last boat and it is not easy. Boatyard ground tends to be a hellish mix of hardcore and clay. It is awful stuff to dig out. I will PM you if I find out anything useful when I look at the rudder assembly..

 

[Bodach na mara]

View of top of rudder assembly

The photo shows the collar that takes the weight of the rudder and the through-bolt that retains it. (The wire attached to it is the bonding wire to the anode.) Wight Dawn no longer has a full quadrant, just a stub tiller which is moved by the hydraulic ram behind the bulkhead.

To remove the rudder, first arrange a support under it. I used a workmate and some wood packing blocks. Now remove the bolt and then remove the collar. It is a TIGHT fit and is not easy to pull off. Once the collar is removed, undo the 4 bolts holding the saddle that takes the weight to the hull and remove it. Now the quadrant can be lifted off. Remove and retain the key.

The props under the rudder can now be removed and the rudder withdrawn.

At the top of the shaft tube there is a seal which must be prized out before the bearings are driven out using a suitable drift.

If you get a bearing kit from Trafalgar, I think it contains the two bearings, the seal and another bit that is for tiller-steered boats (which you do not need.) If you get the kit first, you will see what you are trying to remove.