Welding stainless tips?

skipper_stu said:
And whilst you are at it take plenty of pix and write it up for PBO, nice beer tokens when printed!
Stu
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By the time you have finished building you are so fed up that all you wish to do is go sailing but all the other issues that were ignored while you were building have to be addressed so have no time for sailing.

:):playful:
 
If your welder has a Direct Current option you should explore this. The current can be made to flow in either direction on some make sure you get this right for your rods. The arc will be easier to strike easier to maintain and give a wld with better appearance.

PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE.

It is well worth getting a pro to check your setup and your welding technique.

Get fresh rods and keep them dry REALLY dry.
 
OK, so any hints about polishing?

This looks the way to go , but can you get the polish or similar down a Portuguese DIY store? Or something similar?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsMRtrbbJfI
(6 minutes in)

More a 'strong enough for a 60's farm" look rather than a 'shave in the mirror surface down the boat show' type of thing ;)





Slowly moving forward, lick of paint helps so much.. :cool:

rc6xVIB.png


N5bZPIq.png


Lloyds coding, that just ain't ever going to happen but plenty strong enough, slag just popped off this one almost all by itself.
Buying that little printer has really paid off, draw up the plates and print 1:1 then masking tape onto the piece for marking out precise hole centres. Works great.

i983zIa.png
 
GHA said:
OK, so any hints about polishing? This looks the way to go , but can you get the polish or similar down a Portuguese DIY store? Or something similar?
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Get Bernie or Bruce to drive you to ILG Inox at Concecao or Patacao, they should have the compounds - you need black (coarse) and white (for finishing) - and buffing wheel for electric drill, it's where I got mine a few years ago. I'll be there end of June if you've not sorted some.

P.S. I think Aki stock those ribbed discs.
 
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Graham376 said:
Get Bernie or Bruce to drive you to ILG Inox at Concecao or Patacao, they should have the compounds - you need black (coarse) and white (for finishing) - and buffing wheel for electric drill, it's where I got mine a few years ago. I'll be there end of June if you've not sorted some.

P.S. I think Aki stock those ribbed discs.
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Ah, knew I'd seen that stuff somewhere recently, was up at Inox on monday. I'll get some next time I'm up. Thnx
 
GHA said:
OK, so any hints about polishing?

This looks the way to go , but can you get the polish or similar down a Portuguese DIY store? Or something similar?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsMRtrbbJfI
(6 minutes in)

More a 'strong enough for a 60's farm" look rather than a 'shave in the mirror surface down the boat show' type of thing ;)





Slowly moving forward, lick of paint helps so much.. :cool:

rc6xVIB.png


N5bZPIq.png


Lloyds coding, that just ain't ever going to happen but plenty strong enough, slag just popped off this one almost all by itself.
Buying that little printer has really paid off, draw up the plates and print 1:1 then masking tape onto the piece for marking out precise hole centres. Works great.

i983zIa.png
Click to expand...

Practice making perfect? See you on the tenth.
Stu
 
How strong is a bit of studding welded in some 6mm plate?
Looking t remounting the radar arch now. Had thought of drilling out the plate and welding conn nuts underneath but the decks too busy below for that. Push pit plates were drilled, hole tapped with a bitof studding screwed in the welded underneath, with some bevel to get a bit of depth.
Though a bit concerned if that will be man enough for the radar arch, M12 I think the holes are.

Should I double up the plate maybe where the holes are? So 12mm tapped then studding welded underneath? Think I might stick a brace in as well onto the radar arch, stiffen it up a bit so those connections don't have to do all the work.

Coming along though, keep thinking of more handy little cleats and bits to weld on while we're at it :cool:


sMvsWv6.png
 
GHA said:
How strong is a bit of studding welded in some 6mm plate?
Looking t remounting the radar arch now. Had thought of drilling out the plate and welding conn nuts underneath but the decks too busy below for that. Push pit plates were drilled, hole tapped with a bitof studding screwed in the welded underneath, with some bevel to get a bit of depth.
Though a bit concerned if that will be man enough for the radar arch, M12 I think the holes are.

Should I double up the plate maybe where the holes are? So 12mm tapped then studding welded underneath? Think I might stick a brace in as well onto the radar arch, stiffen it up a bit so those connections don't have to do all the work.

Coming along though, keep thinking of more handy little cleats and bits to weld on while we're at it :cool:


sMvsWv6.png
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I would go up to 8 mm for anything with higher load that a stanstion.

An 8mm nut is about 6 mm thick so 6 mm plate with the stud screwed and welded in will have a similar strength.

My radar arch is held down with 4 m8 in each of 4 legs then braced to pushpit not for strength but rigidity.
 
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Rogershaw said:
I would go up to 8 mm for anything with higher load that a stanstion.

An 8mm nut is about 6 mm thick so 6 mm plate with the stud screwed and welded in will have a similar strength.

My radar arch is held down with 4 m8 in each of 4 legs then braced to pushpit not for strength but rigidity.
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Ta, pretty much talked myself into doubling up anyway, just didn't look right. Next to that gonna look at mounting a roller fairlead each side for stern anchor retrieval and hopefully never jordan series drogue . Certainly should be a lot better at sharpening drill bits by the time this is all done ;)

Pf2reyr.png
 
Radar arch coming down one last time for a few more bits to get added. So what would you add to this list, lots of half links of 8mm stainless chain getting zapped on as little eyes.

  • One high each side on the outside for the little release clip things for the fishing line.
  • Little tab of flat bar with a hole on the front top to make a roller reefing little quick release canopy over the cockpit.
  • One for the motoring cone (yeah right....)

Must be other handy things to add while it's down - any suggestions?
 
GHA said:
Radar arch coming down one last time for a few more bits to get added. So what would you add to this list, lots of half links of 8mm stainless chain getting zapped on as little eyes.

  • One high each side on the outside for the little release clip things for the fishing line.
  • Little tab of flat bar with a hole on the front top to make a roller reefing little quick release canopy over the cockpit.
  • One for the motoring cone (yeah right....)

Must be other handy things to add while it's down - any suggestions?
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maybe weld a couple of nuts on here and there, unobtrusive and potentially useful later of you want to screw another bracket on
 
solent clown said:
maybe weld a couple of nuts on here and there, unobtrusive and potentially useful later of you want to screw another bracket on
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Good idea up top for antenna land :cool:

Yep, like it. Ta

If i was still working some unsuspecting client would be donated a little stainless unistrut channel and fittings ;)
 
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coopec said:
I haven't checked all the posts but no one seems to have mentioned TIG welding which is what the professionals would use.
http://www.weldersuniverse.com/images/choose_welding_machine.jpg
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The thread was more about using the welder he had to hand, and learning on the job than a general discussion on welding. Good point about tig though, as smaller machines have become very cheap now, and they work well. Of course there is the added inconvenience of dragging a gas bottle around- not much fun on a boat. If any of you are considering trading in your old stick welder for a newer inverter type stick welder, do it- they are very much easier to use for the novice - lightweight and small, and can be had for around £100 nowadays.
 
solent clown said:
The thread was more about using the welder he had to hand, and learning on the job than a general discussion on welding. Good point about tig though, as smaller machines have become very cheap now, and they work well. Of course there is the added inconvenience of dragging a gas bottle around- not much fun on a boat. If any of you are considering trading in your old stick welder for a newer inverter type stick welder, do it- they are very much easier to use for the novice - lightweight and small, and can be had for around £100 nowadays.
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Yes, but don't buy too cheap, they have a habit of failing. Guy near Albufeira asked me about his. Two had failed under guarantee in a couple of weeks. I had a look and he was on a long extension from the house to w/shop, it was the voltage drop that was the prob. Better quality ones are more tolerant. Extensions in in yards tend to be a bit skinny...
I bought a Telwin inverter stick/tig in 2000, not cheap then, as I had a big SS job on. Worked fine for 5yrs, then pop. Cost about €700 back then :( .
 
Talk about a throw away society: I live about 120 km out of Perth West Australia and am a regular visitor to the rubbish dump. I have picked up three stick welders in going order which have been thrown out.

Where is society going?

Clive
 
coopec said:
Talk about a throw away society: I live about 120 km out of Perth West Australia and am a regular visitor to the rubbish dump. I have picked up three stick welders in going order which have been thrown out.

Where is society going?

Clive
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Old tech going the way it goes I guess. I have kept my old stick welder as much out of nosstalgia as anything else. Wouldn't seem right just to chuck it
 
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