vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
Have you checked this page? Sadler 34 but most will be similar. Replacing a P-bracket
Weeping bonding P-bracket bonding bolt: Westerly Falcon 35
- Thread starter NealB
- Start date
NealB
Well-Known Member
Thank you ........ very informative, clearly written and with helpful, pics.
All I need is a bit of courage!
cwh
New Member
@NealB Thanks for replying. I had seen thatr Sadler 34 page but not paying too much attention to it as its not the same design as a Westerly. I have a suspicion that on the westerly there may be a female bronze receiving housing thats what we see from inside the boat, and I think the actual P-Bracket has a male section that slots into it. Even with the bolts removed on the inside it's absolutely rock solid, yet the actual p-braket now flex's slightly which it did not do prior to removing the retaining bolts. So it may just need some tapping and it'll come out. I shall test my theory at the weekend.
superheat6k
Well-Known Member
Can I suggest before you consider cutting much GRP and much work to reinstate it, including the critical re-alignment, perhaps buy a tube / bottle of Captain Tolleys and dribble this in every few days whilst the boat is ashore until the crevice will accept no more CT.
Worked for me on a weeping bolt on one of the rudder stocks on my Turbo 36.
Worked for me on a weeping bolt on one of the rudder stocks on my Turbo 36.
cwh
New Member
@superheat6k Hi, thanks for replying ont the thread. I do not intend to remove any more on the inside, however, unless it's properly sealed from underneath one can never guarantee that moisture wont be absorbed in the future which would bew really bad news. So one way or another it needs a decent permanent solution. Ideally p-braket out and reseal with CT600, or removing some material from underneath sufficient to receive a decent bonding of thickened epoxy.
Going back to what you said about dealing with any crevices, some small pilot holes on the inside and then polyester resin would be a better solution, since PR is less viscous and will effectively do the same thing but also bond with any glass fibre and gaps down there.
Going back to what you said about dealing with any crevices, some small pilot holes on the inside and then polyester resin would be a better solution, since PR is less viscous and will effectively do the same thing but also bond with any glass fibre and gaps down there.