Wayfarer for a fat bloke

And there we go a little reminder about the original question. Not to much honestly.

Very happy with our various motorboats but thought we might turn our hand to a little sailing.

Was thinking about a Wayfarer second hand. How suitable do you think these are for 2 people 60 years old and one quite large but able to ping about quite well.

Would need to fit a small outboard to get away from the launch point
 
Give it a go BP; you should have a lot of fun. The only thing that I would verify is that the boat has decent buoyancy in case of capsize. That means watertight tanks or decent condition buoyancy bags. Don't skimp here. Everything else can be tarted-up as you go along.

Enjoy!

Edit: if the boat has buoyancy bags, ensure that the retaining straps for the bags are secure. It's no good having decent buoyancy and then watch the bags pull their mountings out of the inside of the boat and go sailing away in the wind.

(A lesson I learned the hard way when I was about 13 years old).
 
RunAgroundHard said:
It is an excellent choice of boat. However, like all dinghies that size, getting under the boom when tacking or gybing if large size and stiff, can be a hassle. Look for the transom mounted mainsheet as opposed to the centre mainsheet; aft mainsheet is more room to manoeuvre. I own one and cruise with its, but do not have an outboard, I use oars, sometimes rigged through row locks, sometimes just a single oar as a paddle, hence an outboard is not required.

I now struggle on steep slipways and will buy a tow bar winch to haul it up the slip. I use a combo trailer with launching trolley as it saves the trailer wheels from getting wet. Carry a couple of spare wheels with tyres for spares.

Issues
Floor boards on older ones can be damaged such that they need replacing and this is not obvious, so take a good look.
Aft water tight compartment locks are crap on earlier models and the lid always comes loose. There should be foam or polystyrene in that space, not always, but it is there on some models.
Self draining bailers in the hull tend to be damaged, low cost item easy to replace.
If you capsize, they will turn turtle. There are mast head floats and mast head water activated floats and even sail head floats built into the sail to stop turning turtle. Understand how to right one, but if only sailing in light winds, you will be fine. But the big issue is entrapment under the hull if it did go over. Easy to breath but easy to panic as well.
They fill with water and can be difficult to bail out as they sit very, very low in the water. You need speed for the self bailers to work. There is a modification to run self draining tubes through the aft flotation chamber to the stern that works very well and is recommend if large volume of water is a realistic probability.

Spare parts are very low cost, very active owners association, insurance is about £75 a year, if even that. I have the MarkII SD, which has a solid built in floor, not floor boards, designed to be kept on moorings so it can fill with water, and if the self draining bailers are left open, rain water will drain out the bottom. Bit this model floats high and will turn turtle, the other models may not.

Good choice, Drascombs are also a good choice, more stable, but more expensive.
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Hi! Bit off topic but I've Mark 2 SD. I cannot find replacement self bailers anywhere and mine are absolutely shot. Don't suppose you know where I can get some replacement parts. Don't even know what to call it to google it so at an absolute loss. Thank you :)
 
Wayfarer6 said:
Hi! Bit off topic but I've Mark 2 SD. I cannot find replacement self bailers anywhere and mine are absolutely shot. Don't suppose you know where I can get some replacement parts. Don't even know what to call it to google it so at an absolute loss. Thank you :)
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They are probably Andersen Bailers. Usually just the seals need replaced - you certainly used to be able to buy a service kit.
 
ylop said:
They are probably Andersen Bailers. Usually just the seals need replaced - you certainly used to be able to buy a service kit.
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Hi! Thank you for your reply. So maybe I'm thinking of completely the wrong thing but I've basically got two circular bailer outlets through the transom. They are big like 4/5 inches. Currently they've got bodged home made bits of wood in but as you can imagine that is not doing the job very well.
 
Ah sorry I thought you were talking about through the floor bailers. I’ve sailed (and helped maintain) a few wayfarers over the years and none had through transom scuppers like this. The approach was common to many other dinghies of the era, but wayfarers has the hopefully sealed locker under the tiller so to drain the cockpit needs a more complex arrangement. I am fairly sure what you have is non-standard for an old wayfarer so impossible for us to suggest “blind”.
 
ylop said:
Ah sorry I thought you were talking about through the floor bailers. I’ve sailed (and helped maintain) a few wayfarers over the years and none had through transom scuppers like this. The approach was common to many other dinghies of the era, but wayfarers has the hopefully sealed locker under the tiller so to drain the cockpit needs a more complex arrangement. I am fairly sure what you have is non-standard for an old wayfarer so impossible for us to suggest “blind”.
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Oh dear haha. Was hoping you wouldn't say that. They seem to be moulded into the hull which is why I thought it might be original. Two tunnels that run from the 'gutters' in the deck and then out the back through these badly sealed holes, you can pull the wood tighter into the boat through some cleats that are inside of the boat but it's not very effective. I've been too worried to open them up while I'm going along but I'm taking huge amounts of water on so I need a better solution. I thought it might be a mark 2 SD because I can't find a way to get the floor up, with the exception of an inspection hatch at the front, thought that must be because of the buoyancy tank underneath that only the SD has. It also has some Anderson Bailers on the bottom of the hull so that will be another thing to look into. I'll get some pictures of the odd arrangement if that helps. Sorry to hijack the post!
 
As above, almost certainly a diy installation. Many ways of skinning this cat. Photos or detailed description would help
 
Wayfarer6 said:
Hi! Thank you for your reply. So maybe I'm thinking of completely the wrong thing but I've basically got two circular bailer outlets through the transom. They are big like 4/5 inches. Currently they've got bodged home made bits of wood in but as you can imagine that is not doing the job very well.
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It’s a DIY modification to allow high volume drainage after a capsize. The MkII SD hold water higher than other Wayfarers because the sole is moulded in, unlike the more usual ply soles, where the water is under the sole. The MKII SD is quite unstable when righted. The transom’s tubes allows the water to drain out fast. Covers were sometimes held in place with elastic running through the tubes and secured in the cockpit, which was slackened to allow the discs to drop off and allow fast draining compared to the recessed Anderson nailers in the hull. Just figure a way to repair, or replace what’s there.

It’s very likely an ex sailing school boat as some schools kept them afloat on moorings. If you do that, you can keep the Anderson bailers open and the rain water drains out. The moulded sole is above the water line.

Other dinghies, such as the GP14 had flaps in their transom, with vertical hinges on the centre line side, that opened outwards like doors. Elastic was used to secure them closed. Lots of ways to address it.
 
Wayfarer6 said:
Oh dear haha. Was hoping you wouldn't say that. They seem to be moulded into the hull which is why I thought it might be original. Two tunnels that run from the 'gutters' in the deck and then out the back through these badly sealed holes, you can pull the wood tighter into the boat through some cleats that are inside of the boat but it's not very effective. I've been too worried to open them up while I'm going along but I'm taking huge amounts of water on so I need a better solution. I thought it might be a mark 2 SD because I can't find a way to get the floor up, with the exception of an inspection hatch at the front, thought that must be because of the buoyancy tank underneath that only the SD has. It also has some Anderson Bailers on the bottom of the hull so that will be another thing to look into. I'll get some pictures of the odd arrangement if that helps. Sorry to hijack the post!
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Ah, I see there was a Mk2SD as you describe - too modern for me so never seen one.
 
Wayfarer6 said:
Hi! Thank you for your reply. So maybe I'm thinking of completely the wrong thing but I've basically got two circular bailer outlets through the transom. They are big like 4/5 inches. Currently they've got bodged home made bits of wood in but as you can imagine that is not doing the job very well.
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How about getting the parts made with a 3D printer.
When I was dinghy sailing I saw a lot of bailers fitted to transoms - some looked like funnels (about 4" diameter) - I assume they were held in place with elastic. For those type, it should be easy to make a 3D printed replacement. And for very little cost if you have access to someone with a 3D printer.
 
The ones that look like plastic funnels are......plastic funnels. Easily bought. Flaps have the advantage of giving a bit of non return valve, useful in Enterprises, GP 14s etc but may not be needed if the Wayfarer is self draining
 
RunAgroundHard said:
Other dinghies, such as the GP14 had flaps in their transom, with vertical hinges on the centre line side, that opened outwards like doors. Elastic was used to secure them closed. Lots of ways to address it.
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I've had this type - the hinges tended to get stiff so we replaced them (and the seal) with 2mm neoprene - worked a treat. Replace the bungee every year though, it doesn't last.
 
oldbloke said:
The ones that look like plastic funnels are......plastic funnels. Easily bought. Flaps have the advantage of giving a bit of non return valve, useful in Enterprises, GP 14s etc but may not be needed if the Wayfarer is self draining
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I doubt that a Wayfarer is "self draining".
But these transom flays work using the momentum.
After a capsize, there is a lot of water inside - you don't need to get the boat moving very fast for all that water/momentum to drive the water out of the back of the boat. I guess that won't drain a Wayfarer dry - thats where the Elvstrom self bailers come in - still seem to be available Anderson Dinghy Self Bailers Elvstrom Stainless

I moved away from the GP/Enterprise/Wayfarer family of dinghies a VERY long time ago. Eventually ending up with catamarans. I've had lost of different cats over the years - from ones that fit on car roof tops to 26 foot monsters. The Hurricane though was the best of the bunch though - I've had two.
 
The SD stands for self draining, I'm not sure quite HOW self draining they are. I remember the one I sailed had self bailers in recesses like in an RS 400. We never capsized so never needed to shift that much water. Spent most of my youth in Enterprises so v familiar with how to get the water out of them :)
 
I tend to agree with most of the above. But if can be blunt. If new to dinghys then plse do not take a heavyish Wayfarer out on the water until you understand boat balance, wind gusts and how to right it in the event of a capsize. Witnessed an older couple recently get into a terrible pickle in our channel in a Wanderer cause they didnt round up and let out the main sheet fast enough.
We actually had a lovely but very heavy Crabber 17 and even that would go over given half a chance with absolutely no way of righting it. So wind strength, and rig management was always in our minds, every second of every trip. As said a few lessons will pay dividends.
 
Hurricane said:
I doubt that a Wayfarer is "self draining". ...
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It is. I own a MK2 SD. It is self draining, other models are not self draining.

It was designed to sit on a mooring and rain and water splashing in would drain out through Anderson type bailers. Unlike other Wayfarers of this age, the floor of the SD was moulded in GRP which created a sealed void underneath the floor. The floor is above water line. The Anderson type self bailers sit in a floor recesses, in the normal position in the hull. When left on a mooring, the Anderson style bailers are left open and rain water, spray from waves, drains out. That was the whole objective of the SD, which was aimed at dinghy sailing schools that kept their boats on moorings.

The problem with the SD, is when righted, from a capsize, the water level is higher in the boat and the void space below the floor continues to provide buoyancy, as it is sealed. This means that the boat is very unstable when righted, unlike a standard floor Wayfarer where the water sits both below and above the floors and the hull is not that unstable when flooded. To address this, many sailing schools (that capsize a lot), added the tunnels from above the sealed floor, through the aft buoyancy chamber and out the stern, sloping downwards. This meant that water in the hull after capsizing could be dumped out the stern quickly. Without this feature, bailing had to be done by hand, with a high risk of tipping the boat over as the water sloshed to one side.

I taught dinghy sailing in both the standard Wayfarer and SD, and later bought an SD from a sailing centre and cruised on it, I still own it.

The Wayfarer Association used to have a pdf leaflet that could be downloaded that described all the model variants and their features, but I can't find it on the Web Site.
 
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