Waxing / Protecting gelcoat?

Tim Good

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I’m ashamed to say I’ve never polished my gelcoat with wax or a polymer protector. I usually just treat the top sides with oxalic acid to remove stains and then rinse it all down.

1. Am I really missing a trick here?

2. If so should I be using carnauba wax or a new type polymer nowadays?
 
I had a yacht with a dark blue hull which was very prone to getting that dull 'oxidised' look.
One year I Tcut the whole hull, it looked great but was bad again by the end of the season.
Next year I T Cut again but protected the surface with 4 coats of wax.
It still looked good 2 seasons later.
 
It all depends on what you want to achieve. If you want to go sailing with the least possible effort, then by all means do nothing but occasionally clean the hull. Just don't be surprised if nobody wants to buy your boat when you come to sell it, or that no one ever makes complimentary remarks about her.
 
I had a yacht with a dark blue hull which was very prone to getting that dull 'oxidised' look.
One year I Tcut the whole hull, it looked great but was bad again by the end of the season.
Next year I T Cut again but protected the surface with 4 coats of wax.
It still looked good 2 seasons later.

:encouragement:
Looks like a busy "winter ashore" for me!;)
 
It all depends on what you want to achieve. If you want to go sailing with the least possible effort, then by all means do nothing but occasionally clean the hull. Just don't be surprised if nobody wants to buy your boat when you come to sell it, or that no one ever makes complimentary remarks about her.

Impossible!
She's the most spectacular boat ever floated.
Well, I think so :D
 
I read recently that it may be best not to use a cutting compound too often on the basis that every time it is applied the thickness of gelcoat will decrease. Presumably a good wax will do no harm, but may not provide the head turning shine that the two used together would achieve!
 
I read recently that it may be best not to use a cutting compound too often on the basis that every time it is applied the thickness of gelcoat will decrease. Presumably a good wax will do no harm, but may not provide the head turning shine that the two used together would achieve!

Wax alone should work, providing the gel is in good condition to start with. This is my 20-yr old boat. The white is only waxed but the blue needs buffing.

P1070696%20copy.jpg
 
Does anyone have a link to 3rd party information that quantifies protection provided by any kind of wax? I've seen plenty od studies that ovserve beeding of water, but anything that measures:
* UV penetration?
*Oxygen penetration?
* Damage to substrate?

I did a 7-year study on soft vinyl products for a magazine. In 7 years, the only thing that made a measure able difference was covering the plastic, and that difference was ONLY the lack of micro scratches from cleaning. There was no measurable difference is characteristics between the controls and the waxed samples (waxed quarterly) (strength, stiffness, clarity).

I'm not sayin' it does not help, but has ANYONE every seen quantitative data? I've searched, and I have posted this question on many forums, over the years.
 
Does anyone have a link to 3rd party information that quantifies protection provided by any kind of wax? I've seen plenty od studies that ovserve beeding of water, but anything that measures:
* UV penetration?
*Oxygen penetration?
* Damage to substrate?

I did a 7-year study on soft vinyl products for a magazine. In 7 years, the only thing that made a measure able difference was covering the plastic, and that difference was ONLY the lack of micro scratches from cleaning. There was no measurable difference is characteristics between the controls and the waxed samples (waxed quarterly) (strength, stiffness, clarity).

I'm not sayin' it does not help, but has ANYONE every seen quantitative data? I've searched, and I have posted this question on many forums, over the years.

My statement above is by actual observation
 
My statement above is by actual observation

Yes. But what did you observe? The color seemed more stable, but much of that is optical, caused by the presence of wax (internal refraction, the wet look).

I know what you are saying and what you are seeing. But I'm amazed I can't find any quantitative research. Why wouldn't a wax manufacture do the work and post the results? That is puzzling. There is quantitative research on rubber waxes (in the blend, not applied), for example. On paints. But not for wax applied to surfaces.

If you find it, post it!! Please. I'll bet lunch it has more to do with oxygen penetration than UV, but it would be nice to know.
 
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Yes. But what did you observe? The color seemed more stable, but much of that is optical, caused by the presence of wax (internal refraction, the wet look).

I know what you are saying and what you are seeing. But I'm amazed I can't find any quantitative research. Why wouldn't a wax manufacture do the work and post the results? That is puzzling. There is quantitative research on rubber waxes (in the blend, not applied), for example. On paints. But not for wax applied to surfaces.

Good point! I did observe that the initial 'grit polishing' removed the 'oxidised/chalky' outer layer and the result was a very shiny gel coat. The applications of wax had a marginal improvement in 'shine' probably due, as you say, to the wet look. I can say that from direct experience and observation "waxing protects the gel coat" exactly how is an interesting question.
In my misspent youth I was involved in the testing of PVC fabrics, uv degradation was one of the important tests, I cannot recall testing plastic treated against uv problems. I believe pigment choice was important IE carbon black better than bone black or aniline black...…. but I am going back 60 years and memory fades (like those dam samples!!)

If you find it, post it!! Please. I'll bet lunch it has more to do with oxygen penetration than UV, but it would be nice to know.
 
Type of wax used? Also what paint is used for the boot stripes?

Mostly Starbright 'solid' wax, solid because it doesn't spill, though I have also used 3Ms. I don't think the brand matters very much. I follow the wax with International wax sealant, which may do some good, but at least it is easy to apply.

The boot top is the original enamel. By now it is a bit scuffed in places but polishes up OK. Being in a marina, the waterline doesn't get much staining, except the lower white line when the water tank is full.
 
Yes. But what did you observe? The color seemed more stable, but much of that is optical, caused by the presence of wax (internal refraction, the wet look).

I know what you are saying and what you are seeing. But I'm amazed I can't find any quantitative research. Why wouldn't a wax manufacture do the work and post the results? That is puzzling. There is quantitative research on rubber waxes (in the blend, not applied), for example. On paints. But not for wax applied to surfaces.

If you find it, post it!! Please. I'll bet lunch it has more to do with oxygen penetration than UV, but it would be nice to know.

I have often thought the same. Is a 30 year old hull that has recently had only one big clean and polish in just as good condition as a similar hull that has been polished within an inch of its life every year? I have my opinions, but like you cannot find any evidence one way or the other... I accept that the hull may look worse, but is it any more than a cosmetic makeover?
 
For many years on my old Hallberg-Rassy, I polished the hull twice with Meguiars 45 Polish, followed by two coats of Meguiars 56 Wax. This kept the hull looking good for 2 years. I've followed the same routine with my current Bavaria. I started using Meguiars products after seeing guys at Fox's yard using them on Oysters. Both the polish and the wax can be easily applied by hand, and they buff off easily by hand too.
 
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