Waterproof cableport?

stuhaynes

stuhaynes

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The one feeding my mast is the original 1951 technology, and leaks like a sieve. I've found a couple on the net, but the prices are horrendous. I'm looking for something to carry power to the spotlight, radio and nav lights.

Anyone suggest something that will do the job without leaking.

Just for the laugh the original is pictured. :o
 
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Use a swan-neck pipe, and join the cables inside where it's dry.

4228017.JPG
 
Yes, the picture was good for a laugh, thankyou! If you're going to replace the panel with new feedthroughs attached, you should get an improvement just by having new mastic. I like the idea of the swan neck tube, I believe many users also stuff lumps of sponge up them once the wires are in place to stop green ones sloshing up them. There is also a stainless box along the lines of a dorade box for cable entry, but I'm pretty sure that isn't cheap either.

I've never had leaks from those small connectors, but they were never good at making a connection as the contacts corroded rather quickly. I have friends who tell me that Buccaneer connectors, although larger, are much better as they are well sealed.

Rob.
 
Another vote for the swan neck. The index marine cable glands are great: I've had no leaks from the one I installed on the back for the GPS last year. However, you've got several wires from the mast: You list nav (and presumably anchor) lights, deck light and radio. Maybe wind transducer and RADAR might be additions in the future. That's a lot to put through cable glands, but more importantly to remove when you take the mast down. Disconnecting wires that are through a swan neck is easy and no issues with having to decide whether to slit the gland or remove the connectors.

By a curious so-incidence, traced a big leak last night to some old unused (because I just use the swan neck) connectors at the mast. Epoxy features on today's task list...
 
laika said:
you've got several wires from the mast: You list nav (and presumably anchor) lights, deck light and radio. Maybe wind transducer and RADAR might be additions in the future. That's a lot to put through cable glands, but more importantly to remove when you take the mast down. Disconnecting wires that are through a swan neck is easy and no issues with having to decide whether to slit the gland or remove the connectors.
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I replaced the mishmash of broken old glands and plugs on my boat with a single large gland that takes all my cables. The hole is about 2" in diameter or slightly bigger, and you drill multiple holes in the rubber block to suit the wires you have. All very neat and doesn't take up too much space.

I don't have to dismantle it to disconnect - there are plugs further up the wires (it's complicated). But I think if I did, I could just unbolt the top ring, and leave it and the rubber block threaded over the cables, no need to remove connectors or cut anything. The gland came with a plastic cap that fits over the base part while the ring and rubber are removed - not seaworthy, but fine to keep the rain out while ashore.

Pete
 
Index Marine do multicable glands DR1 typethat will take all the normal mast type cables through one seal. It is rectangular and you drill the diaphragm to suit the cables you are running through.
 
prv said:
I don't have to dismantle it to disconnect - there are plugs further up the wires
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As pvb implied, it could be suggested that outside was a suboptimal location for the connections, except..

prv said:
But I think if I did, I could just unbolt the top ring, and leave it and the rubber block threaded over the cables, no need to remove connectors or cut anything.
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Fair point. With my cable gland I only drilled a just-big-enough-for-the-wire hole through the deck but see how the above would work with a big 'ole under the rubber.
 
http://www.maplin.co.uk/ip68-polyamide-gland-24611

Various sizes, around £2

IP68 Polyamide Gland

The IP68 submersion proof round top cable gland is rated to IP68 and suitable for use in areas where a lot of moisture is present and a high degree of protection is required. It has a temperature range of - 30°C to +100°C and has a neoprene seal. The gland comes with a locknut and is available in dark or light grey and black.
 
Another long term fan of Dri-Plugs. Dearer than the others but you definitely get what you pay for in this case. Available between 2 and 35 pin and VHF etc. As supplied to RNLI as well.

Chas
 
laika said:
Fair point. With my cable gland I only drilled a just-big-enough-for-the-wire hole through the deck but see how the above would work with a big 'ole under the rubber.
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If you drill the hole for the cable using the same size drill as the cable diameter and then cut the diaphragm from the edge to the hole, you can open up the slit and push the cable in. When you tighten the top down it squeezes the holes and slit to make a seal. The rectangular one I mentioned will take up to 6 or so cables. There is also a large round one that will take 3 or 4 cables using the same method. This allows you to leave the plugs on.
 
chasroberts said:
Another long term fan of Dri-Plugs. Dearer than the others but you definitely get what you pay for in this case. Available between 2 and 35 pin and VHF etc. As supplied to RNLI as well.

Chas
Click to expand...

I must admit I prefer Bulgin Buccaneers, just as wide a range but also greater variation in the fitting range, and you can buy all the individual component parts as spares. Deck/bulhead fittings can be plugs or sockets as can the cable mounted parts giving one great flexibility
 
I don't think Index do themselves any favours with their descriptions. What you need to know is the thickness of the cable that will seal in the rubber part and the diameter of the connector that will pass through the "hard" part. How difficult would it be for them to clearly give that information?
 
laika said:
As pvb implied, it could be suggested that outside was a suboptimal location for the connections
Click to expand...

I'm inclined to agree. Nevertheless, I still have plugs and they've worked ok for me. Will be selling the boat in the next year or so so not about to change now :)

My slightly odd situation is that there is a GRP box just abaft the mast which would contain the centreboard winch, if I had a centreboard, which I don't. The mast cables come through the deck inside the box, but the box is not watertight so this penetration requires a gland; this is where my multi-cable big gland is fitted. Then I have deck sockets fitted in the shell of the box, into which the mast cables plug, so I don't take advantage of the dismantleability of the gland.

Pete
 
Consider the trip hazard. I've stubbed many a toe on swan necks and deck glands. If you pm me (I'm not going to risk advertising again) I have a low profile one you can have at cost.

Connectors below decks in the dry must be best.
 
Salty John said:
Seeing as the threads been bumped anyway, here is the Cableport:
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Hi, I fitted the Salty John cableport early this year. I would totally recommend using one to anyone. Not had a drop of water below, and the cables are all terminated in a nice dry box inside fitted to the deckhead. I was going to have a joint in the VHF cable in the box, but found I had an easy option of running the cable directly to the radio.

With that and a Metz (also Salty John) antenna at the masthead, VHF performance has been superb. A couple of weeks ago heading up the Crouch to Burnham on Crouch we clearly heard both sides of a call from Brixham Coastguard :D.

To remove the mast, just undo the terminals inside, pull cables out and seal in a bag. Job done. The cableport is easily strong enough to stand on, and has supported my nearly 16 stone a few times already.

No connection with Salty John, apart from satisfied customer btw. :)

Regards

Ian
 
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