Waterlines

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MIKE_MCKIE

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Doubtless a few previous posts on this subject but cannot find the definitive answer. Given that the old "painted" waterline on my 26' long keel sloop is shall we say less than accurate, and I am changing the colour scheme as well, how do I get a LEVEL waterline in the new paint? All the topsides & waterline will be sanded back to a decent surface, thereby losing the weed line, most of which has gone when we cleaned the boat off after liftout, so no real accurate references there. I can get a w/l mark about midships by measurement & simply reapply that measurement, the trick is how to take it right round the boat. Any advice most gratefully received, I am confident that in the vast array of knowledge in the forum there will be someone who will know.
TIA,
Mike
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a "water level" a clear plastic tube ( say 10 m/m Dia ) filled with water a stopper / plug each end one end fixed and the water at the level / height required remove stoppers without loosing water move the moovable end around the boat marking after the water has settled.
 
Thanks Sailorman, I must be the dumbest ox since Noah was a lad. I have been using that trick for years around the house/garden wherever, never even thought of it for a boat. Probably due to conditioned reflex ie boat = movement so water tube no good, however of course boat now on dry land for first time in 5 years = me idiot!

Many thanks once again.
Mike
 
Hmmm - assumes the boat is level on its cradle/pit props etc. I have a laser level (one of Lidl's bargains) which projects a straight line. Would work if you can find two remnants of the watermark on one side.
 
The laser line can be tilted as you wish. Find two remnants of watermark, align laser to them, mark the line (try not to look into laser 'cos it takes ages to get the line away), pop round other side, align laser to other side bow and stern, mark line, robert's your mother's brother. Works even if the boat is standing on its stern.
 
It works yes "BUT", the laser level must be at w/line level and the same hight when placed at either side of boat. I found out the hard way, water line cock on at bow and stern, curve of hull amidships meant 75mm variation port/stbd, Oh and yes I had painted it in before I realised, could have cried, ended up spitting dummy out, jacking boat up by hand till level fore and aft by water level, used same to get her plumb then with friends help used water level to mark water line, done now but real PIA to get right. Regards, Mike.
 
I inherited a diabastrical waterline paint job on our boat. It was obvious, but how to fix? I had weed line and laser facilities, but ended up (due to uneven ground, lack of space etc.) using eyeballs from direct astern (where all the trouble was) Get some cheap tape and mark it (as many times as neccessary) and then hit it with the brush. If it looks good when it's out of the water, no one will notice once it's launched (I hope)
 
This is what I did a couple of years ago:

Flat calm evening, 2 fenders lashed together with a felt pen tied to them at the correct boot topping height;
Float the arrangement gently around the boat making marks every metre or so;
When the boat was out of the water I measured down to each mark from the toe rail;
After cleaning and stripping I put the marks back on and used them as a guide for the masking tape.
 
You really do need to establish what the attitude of the boat in the water was/will be. Perhaps there is still some evidence from other weed marks, you need at least one fore and one aft.
If you can then get the boat at this attitude by raising fore and aft and getting her verticall the you can use lazers/hoses or whatever to get the line right round.
If you cant get her to the right attitude then its a proportional calculation job ie difference in level from mark at bow to mark at stern distributed evenly along the hull.
 
The boat is (as far as I can work out) ok F&A & I can play with the props to get exact P&S. Laser level sounds good & guess there is enough w/l left to find a mark at bow & stern. Since boat will likely not come out for another 5 years, apart from a quick blast & paint on the scrubbing grid, I want to get it right, so may try both laser & water pipe, see which one comes out best (easiest!)
Many thanks to all for the various suggestions, much appeciated.
Cheers
Mike
 
whoa!
Don't be messing around with levelling,etc. Apply masking tape along the present waterline, then either put a second tape along the top for your new level or below for the opposite effect.
 
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