Waterheater

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marcot

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Yesterday night the pressure pump started every 10 min. this morning the bilge was full of hot water mixed with engine coolant. The water came from the waterheater which is probably broken but it is not leaking.
I want to bypass the two engine water hoses, but if I disconnect them from the waterheater all the water will come out from it? What can I do?
 
marcot said:
Yesterday night the pressure pump started every 10 min. this morning the bilge was full of hot water mixed with engine coolant. The water came from the waterheater which is probably broken but it is not leaking.
I want to bypass the two engine water hoses, but if I disconnect them from the waterheater all the water will come out from it? What can I do?
Click to expand...

I suspect you have a leak between calorifier and engine on the out and return hoses. It has happened to me, due to a microscopic nick in one of the pipes, caused by the prop-shaft flexible coupling.
Fortunately I have on-off taps on both the calorifier heater pipes and the pipes to the taps.
 
marcot said:
Yesterday night the pressure pump started every 10 min. this morning the bilge was full of hot water mixed with engine coolant. The water came from the waterheater which is probably broken but it is not leaking.
I want to bypass the two engine water hoses, but if I disconnect them from the waterheater all the water will come out from it? What can I do?
Click to expand...
When you say "waterheater" I am assuming that you are referring to the calorifier, where waste heat from the engine heats the domestic water. If this is the case, you may have an internal leak in the engine heat-exchanger. This would alow domestic water into the engine coolant, where it would overcome the pressure setting on your header tank cap, or the cap on the heat-exchanger. This would account for both the domestic pump cutting in, and also coolant in the bilge.
 
I think I would be wanting to make it happen again to positively identify the source of the leak.
But, to answer your question, unless you have a large breach in the coil very little water will "come out" even if it does you can easily cap it Get a hose joiner of suitable diameter for the hose bore and suitable (stainless if possible) hose clips, I use big clamps similar to brake pipe clamps but assume you do not have those so loosen the hoses and fold them back on themselves to prevent loss, then join and tighten the hose clips. Do it cold and make sure to top up the coolant and keep an eye on it for a couple of days. You should have a working motor and enough time to get it pressure tested to confirm or discount a coil leak.
 
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