Water Based Varnish down below

[LONG_KEELER]

I have noticed that after a fairly short time conventional varnish darkens. I remember reading in PBO that paint carries on drying for the whole of it's life. This makes a rather dull interior.

Mahogany faced ply seems to go darker than most when varnished.

I wonder if anyone can recommend an alternative to oil based varnish. Have used white water based gloss at home with very good results. It stays white.

Thanks in advance.

 

[andygc]

I don't think you can compare white gloss paint to varnish. We did our kitchen table at least 2 years ago with water-based varnish - stripped to bare wood. It's still intermittently sticky and when I've finished all the other little jobs it's going to be stripped back to bare wood and revarnished with proper varnish.

 

[RobBrown]

I used Ronseal Diamondhard water based floor satin varnish on our sole boards and 3/4 years down the line still in pretty good condition. No obvious darkening issues

 

[alahol2]

I often read that new boats have a sprayed 'lacquer' finish. My old boat has lacquer or varnish that certainly hasn't darkened over the years and is still mainly in good condition. There are a few areas that could do with freshening. What is 'lacquer' and where can you get it? Can it be applied by brush or does it have to be sprayed?

 

[Norman_E]

I used Ronseal Diamondhard water based floor satin varnish on our sole boards and 3/4 years down the line still in pretty good condition. No obvious darkening issues

I have done the same with equally good results. I would have posted earlier but could not remember the product name until I saw the above.

 

[Hadenough]

This is what I use

http://treatex.co.uk

I use the clear satin, brilliant stuff, hard wearing and overcoatable with a brief rub down every three years or so on steps and the sole, seems like forever on the bulkheads.

 

[Boat441]

Epifanes varnish. Just about finished a complete re-varnish of our 44 footer, 1979 so lots of teak. Start with two coats 50/50 gloss/thinner, three more coats of gloss and then finish in either one last coat of gloss or satin. The gloss is what provides the uv protection and toughness. The more coats the deeper the luster. While we have done 6 coats, apparently some of the restored riva do 24 and sand between each one, whilst we just sand the 2nd last coat.

Epifanes is not cheap, takes a lot of labour and time, but you get an amazing finish.

 

[bert49uk]

I used Ronseal Diamondhard water based floor satin varnish on our sole boards and 3/4 years down the line still in pretty good condition. No obvious darkening issues

+1

 

[Sticky Stuff]

I think you are looking for a water clear varnish with no added pigmentation.
Most traditional varnish types are using an Alkyd oil as their base material (Linseed is often used) this has a brownish / yellow colour especially when looking through a large volume of the oil.
Many varnish producers add a colour pigment (sometimes brown or most often red) which gives a richness to the finished product ,in many cases this pigment can help the UV properties reflecting the UV rays as well.
Adding a desirable colour can also disguise a less desirable colour if it is there.
You can find water clear varnish in most chandlers this will not colour the wood but it will make it darker as it wets the surface as would all products.
Most water clear products are stated for interior use where they will only get a fraction of the damaging UV rays, however there are now some very good UV stable clear varnishes available.