Washing Foulies

Jack B said:
Maybe a slightly stupid question, but can one wash a pair of foulie coastal trousers in a washing machine?
Many Thanks Jack
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Yes,my preferred cleaning and reproofing agents by Nikwax.

http://www.getgeared.co.uk/NIKWAX_T...utm_medium=shopping_feed_uk&utm_source=google

Run a normal wash programme with no detergent to get rid of any residual detergent before the Nikwax treatment, pre treat any heavy stains with neat tech wash.

Normal wash products not a good idea.

Some say that ironing after treatment increases beading effect.
 
I've used Grangers on our Musto gear as that was what was recommended for goretex.Came out well. Also did the re proofing. Just make sure that you follow the makers instructions and you should be fine.
 
jac said:
I've used Grangers on our Musto gear as that was what was recommended for goretex.Came out well. Also did the re proofing. Just make sure that you follow the makers instructions and you should be fine.
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Have used that as well, performance wise they seem to be about same, Nikwax is easier to source in Canterbury.
 
It seems I may be either the only one to have read the instructions or everyone else has cheap garments.

Firstly it depends on the fabric! A lot.

Goretex requires washing to keep it working. If you don't wash it for a couple of seasons it will be permanently affected. For Musto at least, the fabric works through very small hairs on the outside of the fabric which cause the beading. If these get permanently flattened then the fabric ceases to work so whatever you do, don't iron Goretex.

Firstly, wash in a non bio detergent on a cool setting. You must use detergent to clean the garment. Once clean, dry the garment then tumbledry to reactivate the hairs.

In addition to this, you can use reproofing products as recommended by your manufacturer then follow their recommendations.

For the cheaper fabrics I have no idea, maybe the above suggestions of no detergent will work but I highly doubt that's a manufacturer recommendation except for maybe the very old style plastic or rubber covered garments.
 
lustyd said:
It seems I may be either the only one to have read the instructions or everyone else has cheap garments.

Firstly it depends on the fabric! A lot.

Goretex requires washing to keep it working. If you don't wash it for a couple of seasons it will be permanently affected. For Musto at least, the fabric works through very small hairs on the outside of the fabric which cause the beading. If these get permanently flattened then the fabric ceases to work so whatever you do, don't iron Goretex.

Firstly, wash in a non bio detergent on a cool setting. You must use detergent to clean the garment. Once clean, dry the garment then tumbledry to reactivate the hairs.

In addition to this, you can use reproofing products as recommended by your manufacturer then follow their recommendations.

For the cheaper fabrics I have no idea, maybe the above suggestions of no detergent will work but I highly doubt that's a manufacturer recommendation except for maybe the very old style plastic or rubber covered garments.
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That is a load of old cobblers, the mechanism of goretex does not depend on hairs, it's a membrane.
The outer layer of foulies is not goretex it is nylon, leather or other protective material.

The cleaning of foulies is a two fold process, wash with a non persistent detergent to remove stains and clear the membrane of salt and other deposits.

Then the outer surface has to be treated with a waterproofing agent to encourage water beading and run off, which increases the efficacy of the membrane.

Can't be bothered to provide references! just google, 'how does goretex work' and 'care of goretex'.

Oh and the ironing idea came from a Musto tech in an article in PBO, some people disagree with him.
 
Vara said:
That is a load of old cobblers, the mechanism of goretex does not depend on hairs, it's a membrane.
The outer layer of foulies is not goretex it is nylon, leather or other protective material.

The cleaning of foulies is a two fold process, wash with a non persistent detergent to remove stains and clear the membrane of salt and other deposits.

Then the outer surface has to be treated with a waterproofing agent to encourage water beading and run off, which increases the efficacy of the membrane.

Can't be bothered to provide references! just google, 'how does goretex work' and 'care of goretex'.

Oh and the ironing idea came from a Musto tech in an article in PBO, some people disagree with him.
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Funny, all my info came from the Musto care website...
 
I'll be darned, the Goretex site says if no tumble drier is available then use a cool iron over a cloth on top of the garment to reactivate.
 
Interesting, wonder if that's the dead hand of the advertising copy writers rather than science.

Can find no other mention of the magic hairs anywhere on any other sites.

Any way back to the question, I still think Grangers or Nikwax is the way forward!
 
goretex - rinse in fresh water now and then, to get the salt (sweat/sea) off the goretex membrane

have several 20yr old jackets still going strong, tho the taped seams can untape (top of the range at the time)

iron? think my kit would run away in shame if I showed it an iron... :-)
 
Vara said:
Interesting, wonder if that's the dead hand of the advertising copy writers rather than science.

Can find no other mention of the magic hairs anywhere on any other sites.

Any way back to the question, I still think Grangers or Nikwax is the way forward!
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It's funny I thought it was obvious looking and touching the new garments which do feel a bit hairy on the outside. I agree on the reproofing though and so do the manufacturers. As I originally said, rather than asking opinions on a forum on how to clean a thousand quids worth of kit it's worth asking the people who made them or at least the people who made the fabric :)
 
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