Washboards 1 or 2?

[coopec]

I have looked at previous YBW threads on this subject but feel they don't exactly address my situation. As you can see from my "movie clip" the bottom of my companionway is already fairly high so I wouldn't want anyone climbing over an additional washboard to step onto the companionway steps. I am considering a one piece washboard with a small perspex "window" (3"X 2" 75mm X 50mm) so that people inside could check on the helmsman.
I assume the washboard (as well as the companionway hatch) would have to be secured in place by a latch which could be opened from outside as well as inside. How do you do this? Any ideas?

I have used up my quota of images so I'll attach a movie to see if that works.

 

[VicS]

My boat originally had a single washboard but I cut it into two mainly to make it easier to stow. It also allows me to leave the top section out at night when the weather is warm .I always intended to make a Perspex top section to use as a window when necessary to close up completely but while wanting to allow light in and to see out.
I do have to resisted the temptation to step over the bottom section instead of removing it.

 

[coopec]

VicS

I should have mentioned ventilation of the yacht should not be a problem as all ports open and I have 6 dorade boxes. (I know some yachtsmen like to remove the top board to aid ventilation.)

 

[charles_reed]

My boat has twin boards, both of which have retaining cords as per ORC requirements. Being in 9mm perspex each is quite a handful to lift and to stow and a single one would be very difficult with which to do either.
I've never used a single board, either for ventilation or when under way - it would be nigh-on impossible for an elderly, overweight gent, such as me, to get over a single washboard and under the sprayhood (dodger in USpeak.

 

[Rigger Mortice]

Two boards are more versatile, easier to stow, and easier to handle when things get a little lively.

I like Perspex boards. As well as making it easier for those down below to keep an eye on the helmsman, it makes the cabin lighter, you can watch the world go by when in harbour and there is no varnishing to do. For privacy or to keep prying eyes at bay, it's easy to make a blind.

There are all sorts of locks and latches available.

 

[coopec]

My boat has twin boards, both of which have retaining cords as per ORC requirements..

I must read up on the ORC requirements. Commonsense tells me they must be attached to the boat to stop them being washed away in the event of a knockdown (or worse).

My board(s) won't be heavy as I am using 17mm marine ply but the sides will have to be thicker (30mm)
I think it would be difficult and dangerous for ANYONE to climb over a single washboard.

Thank you for your advice - much appreciated

 

[rogerthebodger]

My wash boards are also in 2 sections for ease of stowing. I in fact have 3 sets, ply based. polycarbonate in a stainless steel frame and a set that consist of stainless frame with vertical bars to allow ventilation with security.

The locks I use are jimmy proof locks like these

https://www.google.co.za/search?q=j...BBoXB7AaBw4HwBg&ved=0CE0QsAQ&biw=1280&bih=655

To stop the wash boards falling out in the case of a knock down I have straps that attach either side inside and outside the companionway held on with turn buttons like these. These pass over both the lower or both depending if I have just the one or both.

https://www.google.co.za/search?new...plies.com%2Findex.php%3FcPath%3D91_93;400;288

 

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Sanderling has no bridge deck and only a low bulkhead to step over, so her companion is closed with three deep washboards. The bottom board has a shiplap joint that covers the after edge of the bulkhead, and the other two boards do the same with the next lower one. The sliding hatch covers the top board.

The sides of the companion are tapered slightly, so the washboard edges have corresponding tapers, and a certain amount of slop in the slides. This meant that with the canvas cockpit cover in place I could leave out the lowest washboard altogether, drop the second one in (when it would slide down a couple of inches below its normal position before jamming in the slides), then insert the top board and lock it to the hatch. This allowed more than ample ventilation through this area. (It would also have allowed a small-bodied person to slide up the lower of the two boards and squeeze through the opening to get into the cabin, but as Sanderling sat in her mud berth right outside my back gate, and I had a German Shepherd, this was not of particular concern.) However, eventually a possum climbed aboard along one of the mooring lines, found its way through the open washboards, and set up house on a spare mooring warp in the forepeak. After that I kept the washboards closed and instead cracked open the scuttle over the galley for ventilation.

How to lock this setup from the outside is evident from the picture, and I never saw any reason to lock it from the inside. I did consider fastening a staple to the top of the hatch so I could padlock the hasp in the 'unlocked' position, but I never got around to it.

Given the depth of the opening in your case, I'd use two washboards (not just one), but with the lower one two-thirds of the total height and with the upper one either made entirely from plastic of some sort, or of plastic in a wooden frame (provided you can get a strong enough grade of plastic, about which I don't have enough knowledge to advise.)

Mike
And in self-defence, I should add that this photo was taken after I'd sold Sanderling -- I usually kept her in better nick than she appears here.)

 

[GHA]

If you're living aboard or long term cruising then doors are worth thinking about.

 

[coopec]

Thanks guys

From what you have told me I know exactly what to do (it will be two piece as it will be easier to handle)

Roger I think your idea of holding the boards in position in the even of a knockdown is great and I will use that.

 

[lustyd]

Thanks guys

From what you have told me I know exactly what to do (it will be two piece as it will be easier to handle)

Roger I think your idea of holding the boards in position in the even of a knockdown is great and I will use that.

Watching the video I'd say your gap is a similar size to most half size washboards so I'd be tempted to go for a single one since handling will be no more difficult than the two piece washboards everyone else is talking about, otherwise you'll end up with two tiny planks 8" wide.

To stop them falling out it's normal to have a simple sliding bolt lock on the top washboard for a cruising yacht. Offshore racers are more paranoid because they do daft things in their boats and expect to be knocked down or otherwise incapacitated more often

 

[Andrew G]

Coopec. G'day. Two washboards are the go. You need to be able to lock AND unlock from both inside and out (eg security when you are not on board, and when you are asleep below). Ours has an inspection hatch that someone inside can unscrew with a key for the padlock on the outside - rarely used!
They need to be able to be secured in position but able to be released from both out side and inside the cabin - picture a flooding cabin, skipper washed overboard crew still below. One method is put them in place and tie a cord over the top to a cleat on the inside and one on the outside - no knots to stop the cord being completely removed once uncleated.
Both boards should be tied to the boat - mine have lanyards that clip onto nearby U bolts.
Yours sound "plenty strong enough" - mine are 10mm smoked "Perspex" and the emergency spares only 6mm ply. For a 34' cruising boat. Check out Yachting Australia for recommended safety provisions for various categories of sailing. Cheers Andrew

 

[prv]

Watching the video I'd say your gap is a similar size to most half size washboards so I'd be tempted to go for a single one since handling will be no more difficult than the two piece washboards everyone else is talking about, otherwise you'll end up with two tiny planks 8" wide.

I'm inclined to agree. Two-part washboards make sense when you have a large companionway, but yours is of a size that a single piece of ply, with a window, would be just right.

A simple door bolt near the top of it, going into a hole in the side frame, will hold it in place in serious weather. You open this from the inside directly, and from the outside by sliding the hatch back a little and reaching through. You can't take the board out without sliding the hatch back anyway, so the point about operating the bolt from outside is moot.

Then you need some kind of catch to hold the sliding hatch closed, and this one does need to be useable from both sides. You could have a pivoting lever on the inside of the washboard, which engages into a slot on the underneath of the hatch. Then a shaft through the washboard and a second handle on the outside - much like what's typically used on a deck hatch. A common alternative is a U-shaped piece of metal attached to the sliding hatch, which locates over the washboard when the hatch is closed (one leg of the U on the inside and one on the outside). You swing it up and sideways to disengage and slide open. This may be simpler to make, but it seems to me that it would get in the way most of the time when it's not needed.

Pete

 

[coopec]

To stop them falling out it's normal to have a simple sliding bolt lock on the top washboard for a cruising yacht. Offshore racers are more paranoid because they do daft things in their boats and expect to be knocked down or otherwise incapacitated more often

I must consider both your points particularly the sliding bolt on the top washboard (if I have 2) but anyway on top. I should be able to position that so that it could be opened from outside as well as inside.

The advice I am receiving is absolutely invaluable. I pay accounts once per month so may sure you have your invoices in by the 25th!!

 

[coopec]

Thanks prv. You have made some excellent points too.

I think I'll have it made up by tomorrow afternoon. I'm going to paint it (manilla cream) although I do like varnish (but it takes too much maintenance).

 

[prv]

I do like varnish (but it takes too much maintenance).

Don't I know it! Previous boat had all wooden spars:

Main mast
Main boom
Main gaff
Mizzen mast
Mizzen boom
Mizzen gaff
Bowsprit
Bumkin

Plus other moveable wooden bits:
Tiller
Boom crutches
Boathooks x2

I used to have to varnish all these every year. Plus the small bits of woodwork attached to the deck and cabin top which I didn't include in the annual mass varnishing but still needed occasional care.

Must be even worse in the Australian sun.

New boat has no varnish on deck at all

Pete

 

[coopec]

I used to have to varnish all these every year. Plus the small bits of woodwork attached to the deck and cabin top which I didn't include in the annual mass varnishing but still needed occasional care.

Must be even worse in the Australian sun.

New boat has no varnish on deck at all

Pete

I used to think the modern production boats were a bit too "clinical" looking without teak but of course they are practical and cost would be a consideration also. I must look to see if there are previous threads on teak care.
Last time I did teak trim on my yacht I used a rechargeable drill with a nylon brush and that shows promise but I must get a more appropriately shaped brush. ( They can be bought on eBay from the USA but by the time you pay postage they cost around $A40.)

 

[Wooden Boat Fittings]

Yes, the UV here in Oz can be a killer, and no, you don't need to do anything to teak -- just let it weather.

Mike

 

[lustyd]

I must consider both your points particularly the sliding bolt on the top washboard (if I have 2) but anyway on top. I should be able to position that so that it could be opened from outside as well as inside.

The advice I am receiving is absolutely invaluable. I pay accounts once per month so may sure you have your invoices in by the 25th!!

Ignore my post, as always Pete put it far better and his explanation is spot on for what I was trying to say

 

[oldbilbo]

I cannot add much to the 'design ideas' for securing/retaining companionway washboards in event of a knockdown, but do recall this became a Requirement in the ORC Special regulations following the inquiry into the Fastnet '79 disaster.

And, of course, the sea cares not a jot whether one is racing or not...