WAECO fridge door seal: restore/replace?

vas

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good morning all,

I have two 80lt fridges onboard. In my quest for improving fridge temps/amps consumption, last year I replaced the builtin thermostats to both of them with the 10euro digital ones from ebay (china). Temp sensors are fitted on the back of the fridge just under the freezer compartment together with a small Hard disk fan which also kicks in when compressor turns on, circulating air within the fridge compartment. Both fridges have Danfoss BD35 compressors and matching el. controllers.
Also added on both 80mm dia flex hose from outside and an extra fan to bring fresh air in.
Of course I've kept the fan that came with the fridges by the "radiator matrix" next to the compressor, just replaced them with more efficient and lower consumption ones - so that I could add the two more fans out of the same F terminal on the Danfos el. controller.
Anyway, all that is done and dusted and work.

The one a 30+yo Vertifrigo is in the salon (mobo) with it's separate motor in a nice cool spot behind it, works fine, cycles once every two hours at 8-9C ambient, once an hour at 15C ambient and every half hour at 20C. Cycles on for around 10mins at a time. Waiting for temps to rise, but from past experience it will cycle once every 20-30mins at normal summer ambient of 25-28C in the cabin with hatches open, side windows open at anchor with a bit of breeze. Boat locked in dock, salon temp will easily be in 32-35 midday.

Now, the Waeco was bought s/h unseen v.cheap during the rebuilt. never worked right, eventually found some decent technicians locally, took it to their workshop checked it, no leaks but blocked filter, emptied/soldered new, checked, vaccumed whatever, repaired. Now works fine whole of evaporator goes down to -18C so seems fine. Galley is in front of the salon and slightly elevated (at the lower helm level) at the hottest spot of the boat with the nicely designed 70s lines with only two small triangular windows opening up. Yep, seen 40C plenty of times in there. Further it's stuffed in a cabinet and had to do a bit of surgery to bring air from outside and "extract" it unfortunately in the salon no other way unless I destroy one of the two main cabinets and I'm trying to avoid it.
So after all this intro, the situation is that this fridge now, keeps decent temps 4-5.5C but cycles at rates that are more related to surrounding temps.
Almost 4h :eek: before cycling at 8-9C ambient, 3times an hour at 15C ambient, 4-5times an hour at 20C. Of course outside temps also play a role.
fridges_17-3.jpg

For the record I collect and view all that data at my desk at home having recently installed temp senders on each fridge that hook up to my custom boxes pumping the data to the NMEA2000 bus which then via SignalK and an onboard router goes to my work server in a influxDB and viewed from grafana. Get 1min granularity of data. The following is a pic from grafana Ignore the "peaks" on the salon fridge when it kicks in, it circulates the empty fridge air from the compartment and temp lifts by a degree before going promptly down again.. Similarly if you see a plot of these fridge temp curves against the W consumption over time superimposed, you'll notice that again on salon fridge, when the compressor stops, temp keeps on going down for another couple of mins and almost 1C, Will check how well the plastic protective piece/condensation collector under the freezer compartment fits, feel that cold air escapes from the back of the freezer down the rear of the fridge and straight onto the sensor. Yellow temp is inside v.close to the galley fridge. Been cold last couple of days... Ah, it doesn't help that both fridges are empty at the moment, one has two bottles of water the other 4 cans of beer...

TBH, not much I can do now, other than reflect on the almost 4h cycling at 9C on the waeco vs 2h on the Vertifrigo and wonder if the door seal could be to blame. Waeco is nicely designed and fairly flat, Vertifrigo is more roundish ribbed along, you know, more like 70-80s fridge seals. Waeco is rather hard not really at the stage of being brittle, but for sure it doesn't "press" with any force against the body of the fridge. Tried the old trick of an A4 page, close and pull to see if it "bites" or slides out, mixed results, mostly stays, some places slides v.easily.

So Q time: is there a way to revive a door seal?
Cannot seem to find a replacement for my fridge, found one on a similar model on ebay from AU but that's going to set me back almost 100euro delivered which is ott.
Alternative is to take the door off and take it to a industrial/professional fridge builder/repairer and get them to fit a new custom seal but worried about the 90deg angle at the corners as I think they just cut at 45deg and glue with cyanoacrylic glue (like superglue thing) Doubt the bending trick will work with this seal...

anyone has experience in restoring/replacing seals?
edit: I wonder if something like this would work https://www.hunker.com/12002391/how-to-soften-a-refrigerator-seal

cheers

V.
 
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Put a smoke bomb into the fridge. That should reveal any leaks quickly. Also observe the frosting up, it should be negligible over a short period. Use an IR thermometer to find cold/hot spots, which will reveal leaks or insulation failures. Before using the smoke bomb, check if it will stain or stink first, they are designed for heating boilers. You may want to make a small one.

Also, how do you convert your sensor data into N2K? I have an ambition to centralise all my many sensors. Levels, temps, volts. Maybe 20 to 30 items of data and to have them on alarms, ideally different levels of alarm.
 
thanks, I'll probably skip the smoke bomb, doesn't sound too health for my fridge tbh :-)
yes I've tried the IR route around the fridge, generally temps are lower around the seal area and also on the door face. Took the door apart, thought it wasn't insulated :rolleyes: well, it was, obvs not as well as the sides but not much I can do, it's some sort of polyurethene foam thingie.
Will probably take the door apart and the take the seal for a clean/warming/vaseline session!

re sensors, first have a look at the PGNs and what data you CAN have on N2K
then check what alarms are supported! it's clearcut and elaborate in terms of engine related alarms you can have practically anything! but tbh there aren't that many built in alarms in N2K re temps/humidity/whatever non engine related.
Doesn't mean much as I'm pretty sure you can set individual alarms on the devices you will be viewing them (either 4in multidisplays, or MFDs) Personally I'd rather have them all as proper alarms in N2K but still struggling with other issues and haven't invested much time on such alarms.
Of course the other v.simple approach is to first get the data in N2K and then via a raspberry pi and a can hat, get them into a SignalK server and setup alarms and whatnot there. Fairly easy to do.

All boils down to HOW you're currently collecting all the data around the boat, one centralised micro/lots of different ones? networked/standalone?
brilliant lockdown projects all these :cool:
 
a small update, following a few days with temps reaching 30C in the cabin :eek: smearing a decent quantity of Vaseline on the seal of both fridges dropped the cycling to half (rough estimate) so I need to do something with the seals (or accept I'll get my hands dirty with Vaseline often :)
 
closing thread, took the door off and to the local catering professional equipment service store. They measured it, and next day had a new seal (identical in section!) complete with magnets et al for 25euro.
Took me at least an hour to fit, a pig of a job!
now fridge manages to keep temps lower than with the vaseline trick, so success.

cheers

V.
 
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