VP2003 head replacement

If he said 'water passing up through the injector sleeves' that would mean water is being ejected out the top of the sleeves, you should be able to see that around the injectors when the engine is running. So check for this, he could be correct about the sleeves if this is the case. Water can dribble from the bottom of the sleeves when cylinder is on the induction stroke and cause smoke/steam. But there are other causes that need rulled out first before removing the head. As has been said check that exhaust elbow first.
I have taken 2 photographs. 2.jpeg is I presume the exhaust elbow. 1.jpeg is showng the exhaust pipe from the elbow going down to a white box from which the pipe leads to the transome. Is it possible if the elbow is clear the box could be partialy blocked, bu, if so would there be steam so far from the heat source?
 

Attachments

  • engine 1.jpeg
    engine 1.jpeg
    785.4 KB · Views: 24
  • engine 2.jpeg
    engine 2.jpeg
    412.7 KB · Views: 24
Last edited:
Seems 2.5k is a lot of glitter to put on what is potentially a rather large dropping.

Pucker up and replace the engine, then you are hopefully buying some longer term reliability. Rather than waiting for the next bit to go clunk
 
Seems 2.5k is a lot of glitter to put on what is potentially a rather large dropping.

Pucker up and replace the engine, then you are hopefully buying some longer term reliability. Rather than waiting for the next bit to go clunk
I didnt pay anything like that for a reconditioned head. Had it been so i would be waiting for the new engine to arrive
 
Yes, picture 2 is the exhaust elbow, and it looks as if it has been there for a few years. I don't see any water around no. 3 injector, although there is plenty of rust in that area. Any signs of water around the other injectors when engine is running?
Unlikely exhaust hose is blocked. It can collapse internally, but would be blocked all the time. Your problem seems to appear after engine has run for a while. It will be worth taking exhuast elbow off to check for blockage. You may need a new gasket if it tears. Is there a normal amount of water being pumped out the exhaust?
 
I have taken 2 photographs. 2.jpeg is I presume the exhaust elbow. 1.jpeg is showng the exhaust pipe from the elbow going down to a white box from which the pipe leads to the transome. Is is possible if the elbow is clear the box could be partialy blocked, butif so wouldnthere be steam
The exhaust elbow is a bit of a red herring in relation to the symptoms you describe. Usually a blocked elbow results in loss of power and a reluctance to achieve working revs under load. It can also result in stem because waterflow is restricted where it enters the elbow.

These engines often have visible exhaust emissions because of restricted water flow in the cooling passages. What is water flow like out of the exhaust? any sign of overheating under load?

You may find it useful to flush the engine with Rydlyme before taking it apart.
rydlymemarine.com
 
Ok you need to disconnect that big black hose from the engine. Remove the piece it connects to and either replace or soak it in some brick cleaner. By the way, I do not appreciate the answer "On Board" We are doing our best to help you. If you are in my location I would have attempted to attend to assist. Your answer now excludes that assistance.
 
I am only recently the new owner in terms of moving the boat, its a long silly story about a certain public health department that kept me away for the boat following aquisition.
My only passage is as previously described, following a fitter checking the engine for me, which the PO's son, he father had died 3 years ago, had monthly ran the engine.
Without going into the whys and wherefores that is the picture.
The rust is very surface rust around and below the injectors, enough to remove the green paint, which quite possibly be as you suggest as the same rust applies under all three injectors.
I have not run the engine tonight as others nearby, but will be doing so in the morning when I move ontona tidal hard stand to wash off the hull and inspect the thru-hulls.
 
Ok you need to disconnect that big black hose from the engine. Remove the piece it connects to and either replace or soak it in some brick cleaner. By the way, I do not appreciate the answer "On Board" We are doing our best to help you. If you are in my location I would have attempted to attend to assist. Your answer now excludes that assistance.
I was not being facicious as i did not understand your question, on board meant avaiable to do tests etc unlike most ho have to wait their return to their boats. Sorry for any misunderstanding, as I am most appreciative of all and any advice here,
 
I was not being facicious as i did not understand your question, on board meant avaiable to do tests etc unlike most ho have to wait their return to their boats. Sorry for any misunderstanding, as I am most appreciative of all and any advice here,
The big black hose is the one heading south from the exhaust bend?
 
The exhaust elbow is a bit of a red herring in relation to the symptoms you describe. Usually a blocked elbow results in loss of power and a reluctance to achieve working revs under load. It can also result in stem because waterflow is restricted where it enters the elbow.

These engines often have visible exhaust emissions because of restricted water flow in the cooling passages. What is water flow like out of the exhaust? any sign of overheating under load?

You may find it useful to flush the engine with Rydlyme before taking it apart.
rydlymemarine.com
I am having wifi challenges. I will check my local chandlers for the flushing agent you recommended.
I cannot say whether there is a restricted flow as I am unaware as to what it should normally be.
The short trip of 30 miles did not seem to overheat the engine, no overheating smell usually associtaed with an overheat, but again I cannot be certain
 
Last edited:
Ok you need to disconnect that big black hose from the engine. Remove the piece it connects to and either replace or soak it in some brick cleaner. By the way, I do not appreciate the answer "On Board" We are doing our best to help you. If you are in my location I would have attempted to attend to assist. Your answer now excludes that assistance.
I am in Jersey, your very welcome to join me.
 
If access is good you can remove the black rubber exhaust from the elbow and look up with a strong torch to see the condition of the elbow. A mirror may be needed. It will save you removing the elbow. Be warned the exhaust hose can take a grip on the elbow, you may need to use a screwdriver and slowly work around where the two clamp and force the rubber from the steel elbow.
When you check the exhuast elbow concentrate on where the cooling water exits inside the elbow.
But run engine and check for water around the injectors first, before pulling things apart.
 
I will certainly do that first, see as much as I can, I do have a dentist mirror to hand.
I will off the hard stand Tuesday evening return to my berth when I can do the inspection.
Many thanks be in touch
 
All excellent advice above. It would be a lot cheaper to recondition your old head, but only if necessary. Don't let anyone pull out your injectors without the proper tools. There is plenty of VP advice on this forum.
 
All excellent advice above. It would be a lot cheaper to recondition your old head, but only if necessary. Don't let anyone pull out your injectors without the proper tools. There is plenty of VP advice on this forum.
Yes indeed very practical workman like advice for a novice with this engine, for which I am most gratefull.
If access is good you can remove the black rubber exhaust from the elbow and look up with a strong torch to see the condition of the elbow. A mirror may be needed. It will save you removing the elbow. Be warned the exhaust hose can take a grip on the elbow, you may need to use a screwdriver and slowly work around where the two clamp and force the rubber from the steel elbow.
When you check the exhuast elbow concentrate on where the cooling water exits inside the elbow.
But run engine and check for water around the injectors first, before pulling things apart.
Started this morning no problems, I always start with the raw water turned off, and turn on immedialy following staring.
Initial flow at tickover (cooling valve fully open) seems slow as I anticipate would be correct, running her now at 1500 revs, sounds sweet as a nut, much more water from exhaust, whether it is correct I have no previous to judge by.
Some 10 minutes running, and whilst the head is hot the water elbows temperature has not changed.
No sign of weeping past the injectors.
Slowing it down to 1000.
 
This morning running, the elbow is still cold as is the pioe from it.
The engine block is normal I would say, hot to touch but certainly not overheated in my experience.
If I remove the elbow does the rod from it to the small block at the front also come off, or does the rod pull out of it?
What is its purpose.
 
This morning running, the elbow is still cold as is the pioe from it.
The engine block is normal I would say, hot to touch but certainly not overheated in my experience.
If I remove the elbow does the rod from it to the small block at the front also come off, or does the rod pull out of it?
What is its purpose.
File didnt show.
 

Attachments

  • Engine 3.jpeg
    Engine 3.jpeg
    379.9 KB · Views: 12
Top