VP2003 cooling pipe

[skip50]

Following info on previous threads I have just removed the exhaust elbow from my VP 2003 and de-crudded it using brick cleaner. Appears very succesful, certainly shifted lots of stuff. Before the boat goes back in the water I would like to check the cooling pipe (sorry if my terminology is amiss) which runs through the block from front to back. I have taken off the connections from either end and can see straight through and it looks clean, but I think there are small holes in the wall to allow cooling water to circulate. I couldn't see how to remove this pipe. Can anyone advise please. Obviously I don't want to damage it. BTW it is directly cooled.

TIA

 

[scottie]

Tap it out with a wooden plug as I recall
Have a look at both ends one has a flange on it push from other end.
Check it's position as one set of holes cool the injector sleeves and the others go down into water jacket

 

[LONG_KEELER]

Following info on previous threads I have just removed the exhaust elbow from my VP 2003 and de-crudded it using brick cleaner. Appears very succesful, certainly shifted lots of stuff. Before the boat goes back in the water I would like to check the cooling pipe (sorry if my terminology is amiss) which runs through the block from front to back. I have taken off the connections from either end and can see straight through and it looks clean, but I think there are small holes in the wall to allow cooling water to circulate. I couldn't see how to remove this pipe. Can anyone advise please. Obviously I don't want to damage it. BTW it is directly cooled.

TIA

Glad you had a good result with the exhaust elbow.

The cooling pipe through the block, as far as I know, can only be drifted out. As it is copper, not an easy job.

I pinched one of the wife's knitting needles, made a small right angle and had a good poke about down the tube. The manual should tell you how many holes you have for the 2003 and the resultant orientation in the tube.

This cured my overheating problem.

Best of luck.

 

[RedAdmiral]

Drive it out from the front of the engine (the rear part of the pipe is a larger diameter). You need a stepped drift (preferably of copper). When I did the job the bypass pipe which is brass came out without damage, but replacement bits are easily obtained if necessary. The holes in the side of the pipe which provide the only cooling water to the block are quite small and easily blocked. I drilled mine out to 5 or 6mm and have had no overheating problems since doing the job about ten years ago.

 

[skip50]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Went down today with my very practical mate. Had a good look, but decided that as she is going back in the water tomorrow, we would not try to get the tube out now, in case of problems. Will definitely do it in the autumn when she is out for six months. Using Long Keelers knitting needle trick we did identify several holes, on both alignments. So, as we found several holes, that obviously were not totally blocked, hopefully the rest are the same.

Thanks again.