VP2003 - Antifreeze spec ...

corinthmistral

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I am cleaning the heat exchanger and exhaust elbow on my Volvo Penta 2003, as such I need to recharge the fresh water cooling system. The coolant that I drained down is the greeny-yellow colour and looks as if it was used neat, with no dilution. 5L of "type 90" coolant from Volvo is £30 - is this some kind of magical mixture or will any greeny-yellow antifreeze from my local car garage be perfectly adequate? Also, should I dilute the antifreeze at all? The boat will remain afloat during the winter and the engine will be run every few weeks. Many thanks.
 
I am cleaning the heat exchanger and exhaust elbow on my Volvo Penta 2003, as such I need to recharge the fresh water cooling system. The coolant that I drained down is the greeny-yellow colour and looks as if it was used neat, with no dilution. 5L of "type 90" coolant from Volvo is £30 - is this some kind of magical mixture or will any greeny-yellow antifreeze from my local car garage be perfectly adequate? Also, should I dilute the antifreeze at all? The boat will remain afloat during the winter and the engine will be run every few weeks. Many thanks.

go to your local motor factor
 
Also, should I dilute the antifreeze at all?

Depends how cold you expect it to get this year! A mixture of 50% ethylene glycol freezes at -34 deg C. What is in the container might already be that concentration. Some people will only use deionized water to dilute it but I suppose that depends on the acidity of your local tapwater.
I would expect any modern anti-freeze to have corrosion inhibitors in it because almost all engines have aluminium parts, even if the block isn't.
 
My experience of the bienniel coolant change with engine and heat exchanger flush out is that it is a messy business with mucky water getting everywhere, if you try to do it the way suggested in the VP handbook which as usual takes no account of the restricted location of the engine in most small boats.
Anyone got any tips about how to go about it?
BTW my recollection is that the book says flush thoroughly then add Volvo premix coolant or 50/50 ethylene glycol water mix with rust inhibitor.
 
An antifreeze from your motor factor or Halfords will be just fine.

You need the conventional ( low silicate) type for older engines, not the long life "Organic acid technology" (OAT) type for modern engines.

( note that the two types cannot be mixed)

Use at the full recommended concentration to get the full benefit from the inhibitors.

Volvo recommend diluting with distilled water if you are in a hard water area or if the tap water contains a high dissolved solids content ( see the manuals for details).
If this applies then it is probably worth buying it ready diluted. In Essex it very likely does apply.

It should be changed every 2 years


Remember these antifreezes are based on ethylene glycol which is toxic to mammals and marine life... dispose of the old stuff responsibly
 
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Thanks all. Well noted re: concentration - I shall mix it 50/50 and buy some de-ionised water. Due to pressure of time and placing an order with Keypart for a bunch of other items and getting free delivery, I caved in and succumbed to paying £30 for 5L of the "Volvo" stuff! Cheers.
 
Thanks all. Well noted re: concentration - I shall mix it 50/50 and buy some de-ionised water. Due to pressure of time and placing an order with Keypart for a bunch of other items and getting free delivery, I caved in and succumbed to paying £30 for 5L of the "Volvo" stuff! Cheers.

you will be getting us poor yachties a bad name :D
 
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