VP KAD 32P - Fuel system bleeding

[YachtKahlua]

Hi All,

Due to a faulty fuel quantity system, either gauge or wiring, I ended up running out of fuel while out on the boat lately.
Once back in the marina, I topped up with fuel and tried to bleed the engine by opening the bleed screw on the fine fuel filter and pumping the manual lift pump.
Unfortunately after what was probably a few hundred pumps, I still wasn't getting clean air free fuel out of the bleed screw.
I then decided to have a look in the course fuel filter and it was still dry.
I abandoned the task temporarily and decided to change the fuel filters before going to hassle of bleeding it, just to be sure no dirt from the bottom of the tank would become an issue down the line.
Now, armed with the new filters, I am ready to try again. I will pre-fill the new filters with clean diesel before installation, but other than pumping on the lift pump again is there anything else I should be doing to get the engine running again?
I understand it will take a while as all the fuel delivery lines are likely empty. Should I be cracking the injector lines? Anywhere else to bleed? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I still have to sort the fuel quantity issue but I'll look at that next!!! Boats........ don't you just love them!!!!

 

[SC35]

Cracking injector lines is a last resort, especially if the pre-filter is dry,
I'd fill the pre-filter with diesel, check for air leaks, and use the lift pump as many times as it takes to get clean diesel coming out there.
Then try starts, no longer than 20 seconds or so with a couple of minutes to cool down between attempts.

 

[QBhoy]

Fill the coarse filter to the brim and try again until you get fuel at the fine filter. You may then need to crack the injectors a little afterwards too. Given your situation now.

 

[Portofino]

Turn the ignition on to power up , ie open fuel solenoid(s) .
Did you do this ^^^ ??

Obviously refilling the filters from a Jerry can helps but with CR engines this practice is kinda frowned upon as there is a tiny risk of adding crap on the wrong side of a spin on .Tiny but nether the less it’s a calculated risk you need to take because CR multiple sequential electronic injectors like yours do not like crap as the cannula are tiny and susceptible to blockage.

Ideally the rock stopper first filter should be below the diesel level in the tank .If it is then close the tank cock , swap out the cartridge and open up the bleed screw and open the tank cock , allow simply gravity to fill it up , tighten up the bleed screw when the bubbles cease.
I have Racors with a T handle lid so await for them to brim and pour over simultaneously tightening the T handle down .

On the Engines ( like many ) a pair of spin ons , with theses the lift pump method and 10 mm bleed screw technique, but I need the ignition on at the dash to open up a solenoid.

If the ignition is not on = snap the same situation you report .Takes about 10/15 plungers to fill each empty spin on .
The two spin ons are about the size of a beer can .

Swapping filters + bleeding air is something you need to be able to do @ sea = become very familiar with it .

Sorry pic on its side ? None CR btw .The two spin ons are behind the air filter , indeed you can see the bleed screws .Pump is out of shot is under easily accessible.This is the Stb ^^ the port I have to lean over , so I have a heat insulated mat nearby.



Top of a T handled racor ( with as it happens a spare O ring ) .The pipage running vertically at the RHS of the image is indeed a sight glass ( actually yellow plastic pipe ) separately cocked , in a protective like gutter .I can as said see the relative fuel levels and gravity fill the racor .

There is a see through bowl for inspection ( out of shot ) and drain cock under the racor as well .
Also a separate drain cock at the bottom of the tank FWIW .

BTW I have practiced what I preach re bleeding at sea .Set of with the tank cocks shut .Boozy boys trip and a big night with the lads the night before .All up early to get the boat @ the yard for 8.30;AM .
Got out of the Marina and they stumbled to a shudder and stop .
I knew ( despite a thick head ) exactly what I had done , or not done in this case opened up the fuel tanks .

So anchor down out side a Marina entrance , size 10 mm ring spanner , engines in ignition only , dive in the ER , OPEN the fuel cocks , open up all four bleed screw use the plunger pump = 10/15 strokes in 60 secs = bubbles then straight fuel etc .
Back at the helm fire them up , they rumbled and grumbled for 10 secs as some air past the filters , took a bit of turning over for that to clear out them back to normal service .
Anchor up - off we went .

So you need to be familiar with this bleeding malarky .

 

[Chris_d]

Sometimes the lift pump wont pump as the drive is against the finger of the cam, try turning the engine by hand with a socket a quarter of a turn, then it will start to pull fuel through.

 

[simonfraser]

Hi All,

Due to a faulty fuel quantity system, either gauge or wiring, I ended up running out of fuel while out on the boat lately.
Once back in the marina, I topped up with fuel and tried to bleed the engine by opening the bleed screw on the fine fuel filter and pumping the manual lift pump.
Unfortunately after what was probably a few hundred pumps, I still wasn't getting clean air free fuel out of the bleed screw.
I then decided to have a look in the course fuel filter and it was still dry.
I abandoned the task temporarily and decided to change the fuel filters before going to hassle of bleeding it, just to be sure no dirt from the bottom of the tank would become an issue down the line.
Now, armed with the new filters, I am ready to try again. I will pre-fill the new filters with clean diesel before installation, but other than pumping on the lift pump again is there anything else I should be doing to get the engine running again?
I understand it will take a while as all the fuel delivery lines are likely empty. Should I be cracking the injector lines? Anywhere else to bleed? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I still have to sort the fuel quantity issue but I'll look at that next!!! Boats........ don't you just love them!!!!

corroded spade connector on mine, from sensor wire to the gauge on the tank

 

[YachtKahlua]

Hi All,

Thanks a million for the replies. Weather here is promised great for the weekend, so all going well I'll get the boat up and running and back out on the water!

Enjoy the weekend !

 

[spannerman]

Its a KAD 32 it has mechanical injectors, not electronic ones. You will need to crack the injectors lines if you have run it until it stopped, just half a turn and crank until fuel appears then tighten up, it will run uneven at first but will clear itself.

 

[YachtKahlua]

Hi Guys,
Just to say thanks to everyone for the replies. I'm back in business!!
Now to fix the faulty fuel gauge!!

 

[Portofino]

Hi Guys,
Just to say thanks to everyone for the replies. I'm back in business!!
Now to fix the faulty fuel gauge!!

What did you do differently this time round ? For the benefit of others .

 

[YachtKahlua]

I did a combination of everything mentioned above. I changed my filters, pre-filled the course filter, bled the fine filter using the lift pump and had the ignition turned on. Up to this point it still wasn't starting so I cracked the injectors a half turn and turned over the engine. Tightened up the injectors again and she stated on the next turn of the key!
Glad I got to practise it with the boat tied along side!