VP DP-D sterndrive - removing steering helmet ???

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Pendana

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Has anyone removed the steering fork and steering hemet from the transom shield?
The book says that after removing the sterndrive and releasing the set screw in the tiller arm to "gently pry" the steering fork from the transom shield.
Well .... I've been "gently prying" with crow bars for an hour and it hasn't budged:confused:. Has anyone got any tips?

Eddie
 
Pendana said:
Has anyone removed the steering fork and steering hemet from the transom shield?
The book says that after removing the sterndrive and releasing the set screw in the tiller arm to "gently pry" the steering fork from the transom shield.
Well .... I've been "gently prying" with crow bars for an hour and it hasn't budged:confused:. Has anyone got any tips?

Eddie
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Hi,Eddie not sure about your stern drives but on mine the buggers were well tight.
Tip I was given was get two hardwood wedges,insert between fork and shield and bash away.
Err you have released ALL pinchbolts clips and clamps and stuff ??????
Presume you are doing those little plastic bushes and fork seals.
 
oldgit said:
Presume you are doing those little plastic bushes and fork seals.
Click to expand...

Got it in one Fred. Got water peeing in where the tiller arm is, so went for the grease gun but couldn't pump any grease in. I presume all the old grease has gone hard, so lifted out to replace seals, bushings and give a general clean.
Hardwood wedges eh, thats good idea, Thanks I'll try that tomorrow.

Eddie
 
Pendana said:
Got it in one Fred. Got water peeing in where the tiller arm is, so went for the grease gun but couldn't pump any grease in. I presume all the old grease has gone hard, so lifted out to replace seals, bushings and give a general clean.
Hardwood wedges eh, thats good idea, Thanks I'll try that tomorrow.

Eddie
Click to expand...

From experience any softwood ones tend to disintegrate with the sort treatment required to shift the perishers.A good overnight soak with WD40 and some heat treatment was the final straw in getting mine to let go.You may also want to ensure any grease passage ways are not clogged with hard old grease while you have it apart.
 
OK thanks Fred, I've left it overnight to soak in penetrating oil and am going this morning with the wedges I've cut from some old oak I had lying around.
Is heat from a hair dryer or perhaps hot air paint stripper sufficient?
Eddie
 
Pendana said:
OK thanks Fred, I've left it overnight to soak in penetrating oil and am going this morning with the wedges I've cut from some old oak I had lying around.
Is heat from a hair dryer or perhaps hot air paint stripper sufficient?
Eddie
Click to expand...

I actually used one of them small butane blow torches aimed at steering arm,a very amusing 30 mins spent trying not to set fire to surrounding stuff,by using wet rags/bits of baking foil.
Idea is of course to expand clamp at end of steering arm(cast iron heats slowly ?) ,without heating up fork shaft (alloy heats up super fast).
This is of course impossible to do hanging upside down with stuff concerned hidden away at arms length right at back of boat:).Enjoy....
dpa.jpg

For those interested its the two little plastic bushes 14/15 and the little seal 16 that wear and let the sea in.You can delay the work for years by regular frequent applications of grease but sooner or later.........
Just one other thing those bushes may be very slighty different sizes on mine they only fit their proper holes either top or bottom respectively.
 
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Well, that job wasn't for the faint hearted.:rolleyes:
Hardwood wedges smashed along the grain with first blow of hammer. Ended up using steel wedges and a 2lb lump hammer:eek:

steeringfork.jpg


Corrosion of the shaft is extensive and would never get it water tight against the new seal, so I think I'll be ordering a new steering fork/helmet assembly tommorow.

Eddie
 
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