VP D4-260 pointers

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thefatlady

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I am making an offer on a boat with two D4-260 engines. The boat was built in 2007 and launched 2008 and has done 130 hours. I normally do my own surveys, but have not encountered this engine/outdrive before.

Is there anything particular I should look for?

Thanks,

John
 
Pitted propellors.

Leaky steering rams on the outdrive -they should have gaiters fitted to prevent fouling damaging the seals.

Check outdrive oil for milkshake.
 
With this engine/drive in view of a rectification costs if there is a problem I would get the services of a Volvo Penta dealer and get the drives and engine fully checked over and get them to read the memory of the ECU, this will show overheats and other problems as well as to check the bonding.

In view of the likely capital cost of a boat with this engine set up I would as well as a thorough check over myself get a surveyor as well.

You would need to put in an offer subject to mechanical inspection and survey.
 
To remove the drain plug you have to take off the props first, then the plastic fairing and behind it is the plug is at the back of the gear housing, its a stardrive head on the plug.
Alternatively you could remove the plastic cover on the upper section (stardrive bolts again) and take out the big filler plug, but trim the drive to 45 degrees first or it will overflow.
VP drives circulate the oil so if the is water in it all the oil will be milky.
 
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thefatlady said:
I am making an offer on a boat with two D4-260 engines. The boat was built in 2007 and launched 2008 and has done 130 hours. I normally do my own surveys, but have not encountered this engine/outdrive before.

Is there anything particular I should look for?

Thanks,

John
Click to expand...

But what is the boat??? You can't leave us in suspence like this!!
 
I was just thinking about all of the room you would have in S34 with D4's in, you could have another cabin in there! The performance would be quite good as well.
 
It is indeed a late S34. It is smaller than I have become used to, but it seems quite nicely formed, apart from the small shower. It will enable me to get back on the water and, I hope, should not be too difficult to sell in due course. I did not want one of the many around with KAD32s which I consider underpowered.

After some haggling, the price has just been agreed, subject to survey and sea trial, with the proviso that I can reject it if, when I get it out on the water, I just don’t fancy it.

Bandit, I take your point about professional surveys, but my limited experience of surveyors has not been encouraging. Add to that the caveats which surrounded their opinions, and it didn’t amount to much. I suspect that I make up in enthusiasm what I lack in experience and the boat is not old or heavily used.

Spannerman, that’s very useful information. Thanks. I have star drive bits, so that should be no problem.

Peanuts, the engines are close together, but there is plenty of room around them See photos below.

Engines5.jpg


Engines6.jpg
 
Check the heat exchanger, oil cooler and aftercooler end caps for leaks. The front aftercooler end cap leaks sea water over the startermotor (that is the case in the med).

Check the water hose that comes out of the strainer where it enters the fuel cooler it gets contaminated and weak (I've had several of thease)
 
First visit and first post at this forum, but I think I can add a few things to check. I'm sorry if my English not is perfect, I'm Swedish, but I practice by reading MBY. :)

One well known issue is bad quality hydraulic hoses for powertrim and steering, manufactured by Good Year (outdrive and transom shield made in USA). I try to insert a picture here know.
attachment.php

This is from my boat and it has 360 h on engine over four summers in a lake (fresh water). I'm going to send my hoses to company who will put silcone hoses with stainless cord on my original connections. There is no visible damage on hoses for steering on my boat, but I know it is an issue.

The brown hose on the picture is the cable for shifting gears. There is a recommodation from Volvo Penta to change this to a "low friction type".

The lid to the water strainer has been a problem to some people, and a really big issue. There is cases when it have started leaking, filled up the engine room with water and the drowned the engine threw the air intake; with the result of bent piston rods!
It is not clear if this really is a result of a bad lid or if it's the users who not have fitted the lids correctly. I have not had a problem with this after 360 h on my engine. Today you can buy an upgrade to a stainless lid with a "sight glass".

Well, I think that was all I can add. I can also say that I love driving my boat with this engine, outdrive, hydraulic steering and electronic controls! :)
 
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