VP D1-30b fuel filter-what tool do you use?

[solar]

Hi,
I struggle each time when I try to change this #$$%% filter!
Hand tighten only but when trying to take it off after a year or so NO filter wrench can hold the round slippery filter with the very limited room to hold it hard enough to spin it free.
Last time I needed to take off the whole filter base assembly from the engine and take it to my press bench to be able to free the filter...Diesel all over the floor of course.
I'm ready to buy any tool that will solve this agony.
What are you guys using? Pic's will help.

 

[Spi D]

No experience but would try this type

A couple of free manuals if you do not already have:

https://j109.org/docs/volvo_d1-30_workshop_manual.pdf
http://www.lundskovs.dk/bavaria/manualer/Volvo/volvo_penta_installation_manual.pdf

 

[Steve_N]

If you have access beneath the filter and if it's castellated then it's hard to beat a proper cup tool of the correct diameter and no. of flutes e.g.

 

[Spirit of Glenans]

I'm assuming you are referring to the secondary filter, on the crankcase, and not the primary filter/separator, on the bulkhead. Here's what I do, on my D1-20, which I think, is similar:
Put your favourite means of soakage ( Bilgesock, sanitary towel, Huggies, etc) underneath, then ram a medium to large screwdriver into it, laterally, from above. So far, so good, minimum spillage. If you can now use the leverage of the screwdriver to get it started, you can twist it off, keeping a finger over the hole. If necessary knock the screwdriver right through, for more leverage, although there will be more spillage.

 

[johnalison]

I have restricted access to the filter on my 2030 but have never failed to release it with a strap thingy, even though it doesn't look up to the job. It appears to be that applying the force in the right direction is the key.

 

[VicS]

Strap wrench as suggested above but a chain wrench may grip even better.

Type with handle or type that can be driven with a socket set depending upon access

 

[Spirit of Glenans]

Strap wrench as suggested above but a chain wrench may grip even better.

Type with handle or type that can be driven with a socket set depending upon access

I tried one of those on my D1-20 and found that, because of restricted access, it's impossible to keep the tool perfectly aligned, so the chain just capsizes and the torque is applied at an ineffective angle.

 

[KevinT1]

I've struggled with Strap wrenches and the Chain type wrench that VicS shows, they continue to slip and or the Chain one crushes the filter.

Piercing the Filter with a screwdriver is an absolute last resort, and as you say results in oil / diesel everywhere.

On our MD22 the Oil Filter is an absolute pain - underneath the engine and almost impossible to get anything on. The only way that I can get it off ( and the way the local mobile mechanic did it the first time ) is to use a 24" cold chisel or hammer through screwdriver and to use that on the rim of the filter. On the MD22 / Volvo genuine filter then the rim sticks out from the filter housing and you can "dent" a notch in the rim and then gently tap it anticlockwise.

A suggestion - which ever method you use - put a plastic bag under / over the filter before you finally detach it - catchs most of the drips / spills.

Finally - on the Fuel filter ( which is more accessable ) then I use these Oil Filter Pliers- around £10 from screwfix


Kevin

 

[Quandary]

The best plastic bags for this are dog turd bags or the bags bread comes in, neither have holes in them. I put the bag round the filter before I start, not my idea, it is in the instruction book.

 

[prv]

A rubber strap wrench works fine for me. I put a smear of diesel on the O-ring when I fit a new one, as for an oil filter, and don't do it up any tighter than it needs to be.

If part of your problem is access, why not take the filter housing off the engine and mount it somewhere more convenient? I have both my primary and secondary filters mounted adjacent to each other on the engine bay bulkhead, with a drip-tray underneath to catch any spills. The D1-30 uses rubber fuel hoses to and from the filter anyway, so it's dead easy to do.

Pete

 

[NormanS]

One of the rubber strap things works for me on my MD 22, for both the secondary fuel filter and the oil filter. I certainly wouldn't attack an oil filter with a 22" cold chisel.:disgust:

 

[johnalison]

One of the rubber strap things works for me on my MD 22, for both the secondary fuel filter and the oil filter. I certainly wouldn't attack an oil filter with a 22" cold chisel.:disgust:

I have both rubber and chain wrenches but only ever use the rubber one, though I am not especially strong. This summer was one of the hardest tests with my fuel filter but eventually, by applying force equally between the strap and a hand on the filter steadily, it started to move.

It's a bit like unscrewing bottle tops. I have often succeeded when hefty chaps have failed, simply by using my left hand, in spite of being right-handed. This aligns the thumb with the screw thread and less friction is induced.

 

[duncan99210]

I use one of these:
http://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/prodzoom/BRIE117117B.jpg?Size=500. Calls itself a Britool Oil Filter wrench. Tighten it up on the filter body...... Never had it fail on me

 

[Tranona]

I use one of these:
http://www.tooled-up.com/artwork/prodzoom/BRIE117117B.jpg?Size=500. Calls itself a Britool Oil Filter wrench. Tighten it up on the filter body...... Never had it fail on me

Just bought one of those from Lidl.

 

[Plevier]

I use one like VicS's second type but with webbing strap in it not chain, I find that better.

Strap wrench as suggested above but a chain wrench may grip even better.

Type with handle or type that can be driven with a socket set depending upon access

 

[solar]

Thanks guys!
I'll try the fuel filter pliers and will see.
I tried all others - didn't work.
Can't understand why VP making these filters without any corners to allow better grip like their oil filters?

 

[NormanS]

I think you will find that Volvo don't make filters. Like every other engine, they use standard filters.

 

[prv]

I think you will find that Volvo don't make filters. Like every other engine, they use standard filters.

Indeed.

Before I cut an access hatch in Ariam's fuel tank and cleaned it out, I once had to buy a new filter as a distress purchase from a Volvo dealer.

£27!

At anchor that evening I went to http://www.inlinefilters.co.uk and ordered ten identical filters (merely red paint instead of green) for £4.40 each.

Pete

 

[prv]

If part of your problem is access, why not take the filter housing off the engine and mount it somewhere more convenient? I have both my primary and secondary filters mounted adjacent to each other on the engine bay bulkhead, with a drip-tray underneath to catch any spills.

Just to resurrect this thread a bit - I took a break from building my brother's website this morning to nip down and service the boat engine. While I was there I thought I'd take a couple of pictures of the fuel filter assembly to illustrate the above post.

The Volvo-green filter head on the left is simply removed from the engine by undoing two bolts. The original plumbing to it is rubber fuel hose with Jubilee clips, so all that's needed is a couple of longer lengths of hose (and I installed better-quality clips than the originals!).

Another angle, showing the spanners (for the bleed screws) and strap wrench stowed nearby:

I'm only really advocating moving the filter - I realise that moulding a special trip tray is more effort than most people are prepared to go to, and that's fair enough. But it don't half make it easy and clean to change the filters:

Two filters changed today (the red one and one of the white ones), not a drop of diesel spilled.

Pete