VolvoMD11C repower

jashenderson

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I have a 1980 VolvoMD11C with saildrive. I want to take the engine out of my sail boat and either rebuild it or repower. Can anyone give me advice on what to do, what to look for, how does the saildrive come out, how many bolts hold the engine in, how should I start?

Jim Henderson
 
[ QUOTE ]
how should I start?

[/ QUOTE ] Clearly, if you intend rebuilding the MD11C, get a workshop manual! However also check the price and availability of spares and consider the future availablity of spares. Having done that you will probabaly decide to replace it with something more modern.
 
I have never done a job like this but I have to say, my gut instinct would be to follow VicS's thoughts. Engine out, strip, new parts (if available), re-build, problems, engine in sounds like a good plan but you are still left with a 27 year old engine whilst for the same work and stress, and probably for not much more wonga, you could have a shiny one with probably a further 30 years of reliable, stress free (?) use.
 
I did the same - and replaced with a Beta 28 last winter.
They matched the engine to teh existing saildrive which saved some expense and quite a bit of fitting hassles.
Ideally I'd change the prop as the gearing isn't ideal - but I reach hull speed when the prop is held at about 2600 and Beta seemed happy with this

Beta will make up mounts to match your existing engine bed. Still requires a bit of messing with all the pipes / exhausts etc - but not really too bad a job all in all.

I looked at rebuilding - but for me with the state of the engine - it didn't seem worthwhile in the long run

A year on - I'm pretty pleased with it - it starts and goes and doesn't fill the boat with fumes or diesel or spray oil around - Beta are nice people to deal with. I looked at a range of alternatives - and ended up with Beta beacuse they do a lot of these repowerings and are geared up to make the mounts etc

Sail drive comes off (having drained the oil) with 6 ? bolts holding it to the engine and about 10 holding the clamping ring to the hull. Normally have to losen the engine mounts (2 on the engine and one at the rear of the sail drive) - lift - or at least tip the engine a bit - wriggle it all around - and then the saildrive pops off (need someone wiggling from below). Push th whole thing up through the hull - and jobs done

P.M. me if you want any more info
 
Im facing this problem myself but with a gearbox and shaft. The Albin group has some info about rebuilding the engine part of an MD11 . The advice is to press out the old liners clear the cooling channels, press in new liners, fit new pistons, top end overhaul etc. leave the bottom end alone which seldom give problems. That hasn't addressed the outdrive.

I agee with the others that there's a lot to be said for fitting a new engine. I've been thinking about the Beta range. One to consider is the Beta BD722SD – 20 bhp.
HTH
 
Thanks for all the replys. I think I'm going to repower with a Volvo D-30. Does the saildrive with shaft come up through the boat or does it drop off down below and the transmission comes out inside the boat after the engine?

Jim Henderson
 
The whole lot lifts up into the boat (having removed the prop) - with the rubber diagphragm still sandwiched in the middle.

If keeping the leg take it home and split it so you can check / replace the rubber diaphragm (recommened replacement interval is 7 yrs apparently for insurance purposes - not that they show much signs of failing as a rule)
 
Jim,

You could easily spend half the value of a new engine on revamping the MD11C only to find after 27 years the block is on its last legs. They are raw water cooled afterall. Renewing is the way to go. Did mine last year for the D1-30 with no regrets and plenty of peace of mind. You cant stay with the old SD 110 because the revs are unlikely to be compatable with a new engine. Volvo do an engine bed converstion as do others of course as mentioned above. Good luck.

PS. are you Lymington based? if so I think I know you.
 
Going with a new engine is unquestionably the best route - on eventual sale you will recoup the added upfront investment, as well as knowing you have a reliable powerplant in the intervening years. Everything has its day!

Removing the existing engine: be prepared to block up the engine and remove the bolts holding it down on the beds, then slide it forward an inch or two (don't let it crash into the bilges, of course) to allow the gearbox/ drive to be released. Usually, to release the leg from the engine drive it's necessary to tilt the drive forward - hence the need to move the engine forward to enable this manoeuvre. Then, as others have told you, the S leg just lifts up into the boat, and bob's your uncle.

PWG

PS Do have the new engine feet made compatible with the existing engine beds. Under no circumstances try resiting or remodelling the engine beds to suit the engine - the route to perdition!
 
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