volvo stern gland

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LP1

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Why can't i seem to find these anywhere? Do Volvo not make them anymore?

i just spent an hour on Google, but only get PSS or Tide Marine.

AAAAAGGGGHHHHHH.


Happy Christmas everyone.
 
LP1 said:
Why can't i seem to find these anywhere? Do Volvo not make them anymore?

i just spent an hour on Google, but only get PSS or Tide Marine.

AAAAAGGGGHH
Happy Christmas everyone.
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Hi try keyparts they have the full size range of deep sea seals in stock and are very good and efficient to deal with:encouragement:
 
Norman_E said:
They are still made, but the Eliche Radice seal is much cheaper, and in my opinion better because it has a greasing point and a water feed. For a sailing tacht you don't actually need to feed it, just take an open ended tube well above heeled water level.

Scroll down this page. http://www.sillette.co.uk/documents/IWMVersionTidesMarineElicheRadice-17.9.11.pdf
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But that is not available in 1" which is almost certainly what the OP has.

The correct part is stocked by Volvo Marine dealers or Keyparts.
 
IMG_0161.jpg

See that gap there? I'm sure that is not supposed to be like that and would leak? Is this an alignment issue?

Thanks.
 
Thanks, I have saved Keypart in my Bookmarks. They have all the gaskets and stuff I need too, so great link.
 
LP1 said:
View attachment 38285

See that gap there? I'm sure that is not supposed to be like that and would leak? Is this an alignment issue?

Thanks.
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Looks fine to me. There are 2 lip seals inside which seal against the shaft. Just need to squirt a bit of grease in there once a hear. You can get the grease from Keyparts. When you launch squeeze the end of the seal to expel any trapped air.
 
The answer is because Volvo seem to struggle with our elegant language. Using "stern gland" as a search term on the Volvo Penta website has always returned nothing. Up to a year ago, using "Rubber Stuffing Box" would have returned exactly what you are looking for, so imagine my frustration when I tried just now and got a zero return! I still can't find any reference to it on their own website, but someone has saved a copy of the original pdf, which tells you everything you need to know except price, at:

http://comportal.penta.volvo.se/upload/Parts Accessories Brochures/Rubber_Stuffing.pdf

Some UK Agents now seem to refer to it as a rubber packing box, still strange to me as it contains 2 lip seals and no stuffing or packing! Prices are available from these Agents.

It is, imho, a superb bit of kit which will last a lot longer than the 5 years Volvo claim, at least in a sailing boat. Its key requirements are to run on an undamaged bit of shaft and to be kept full of water. Although annual greasing is recommended and will help to extend its life, it is both simple (the straw method already described) and far from essential.
 
I have just replaced the Volvo seal after exactly 5 years. It may have lasted longer but the engine mounts dropped and the seal started leaking. Since the prop shaft has to be disconnected to change the mounts or at least check the alignment the seal was changed at the same time.

Pete
 
PeterWright said:
The answer is because Volvo seem to struggle with our elegant language. Using "stern gland" as a search term on the Volvo Penta website has always returned nothing. Up to a year ago, using "Rubber Stuffing Box" would have returned exactly what you are looking for, so imagine my frustration when I tried just now and got a zero return! I still can't find any reference to it on their own website, but someone has saved a copy of the original pdf, which tells you everything you need to know except price, at:

http://comportal.penta.volvo.se/upload/Parts Accessories Brochures/Rubber_Stuffing.pdf



Some UK Agents now seem to refer to it as a rubber packing box, still strange to me as it contains 2 lip seals and no stuffing or packing! Prices are available from these Agents.

It is, imho, a superb bit of kit which will last a lot longer than the 5 years Volvo claim, at least in a sailing boat. Its key requirements are to run on an undamaged bit of shaft and to be kept full of water. Although annual greasing is recommended and will help to extend its life, it is both simple (the straw method already described) and far from essential.
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exactly, if you see from my picture, I will not be able to keep mine 'full of water' as there is a 2-3mm gap on the port side as can be seen from the photo. This is causing ME concern, but apparently no-one else on here?
 
I am pulling the engine forward for a head off de-coke and valve re-grind, as well as replacing the exhaust elbow. I may as well replace the 10 year old stern gland as I am replacing the cutlass bearing, and from tonight, probably the folding prop too! i have had it off and one half rings 'true' and the other is a pinky colour and rings 'dud'.

I have just bought this boat and TBH, methinks I have a lemon!
 
LP1 said:
I have just bought this boat and TBH, methinks I have a lemon!
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Nah, its just maintenance that needs catching up with. I assume the boat is out of the water at the moment, if so you could undo the fake jubilee clip holding it on because it isn't an original one, pull the seal forward and check to see if the shaft is in the middle of the stern tube. that should give a clue as to what is going on. There should be a red widget bottle top sized thingy near the seal which slides on the shaft and fits inside from the engine side of the seal to protect the inner seals.

The original Volvo clip looks like a double jubilee clip joined together with a piece of S/S bendable plate under the screw threads so the seal isn't puckered when tightened. I suspect who ever fitted it couldn't get the volvo one on which is a shame.

Whilst your at it why is there only one jubilee clip on the engine exhaust muffler? and why is there a piece of sheep skin coat under neath it? might be worth securing that down before a loose end gets caught in the turning prop shaft.

Is there a pin in the shaft to stop the shaft turning in the gearbox clamp? a length of lock wire wouldn't go amiss to secure it in place.

Pete
 
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LP1 said:
exactly, if you see from my picture, I will not be able to keep mine 'full of water' as there is a 2-3mm gap on the port side as can be seen from the photo. This is causing ME concern, but apparently no-one else on here?
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I'd also be concerned. It certainly looks as if the engine alignment needs adjusting - if you're going to move the engine, it would be worth realigning it when you put it back.
 
LP1 said:
exactly, if you see from my picture, I will not be able to keep mine 'full of water' as there is a 2-3mm gap on the port side as can be seen from the photo. This is causing ME concern, but apparently no-one else on here?
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If there really is 2-3 mm gap through your stern gland, you will have no trouble at all keeping it full of water. Problem will be that said water will be flowing into your boat and getting replaced by the ocean flowing up your stern tube at the same rate. After all, the ecommended way of filling the Volvo gland with water after drying out is to pinch it to create a gap to release the air which is preventing the water getting in there. When water starts coming out, you stop pinching!

As you've already been advised, check your engine / shaft alignment, and do it first with the coupling completely uncoupled.
 
thanks for that PW. All I can provide is the picture for you guys at the moment, and that shows the 'concerning gap'.

How 'concerning' that gap is, I am relying on the expertise from more learned members.

Having watched the video attached to one stern gland website when they changed it whilst launched, with only a drop coming through whilst running, I am worried about launching with my existing setup.

So my concerns are as follows:

1. Stern gland more than 10 years old - unknown engine hours- + Non standard clip used + misalignment on stern tube.
2. Prop testing - one half of folding prop dezincified (dull sounding ring)
3. Excessive wear on cutlass bearing.
4. Paint corrosion on timing cover (worn out anode?)
5. Carbonization of exhaust manifold.
6. Lack of raw water strainer.
7. Calcification of raw water coolant route through head.

Hence the plan of

1. Bring the engine out into the cabin ( no space in engine bay)
2. Remove head, decarbonize, re-seat valves, clean raw water system.
3. New gaskets, stainless steel exhaust elbow, new anode.
4. new cutlass bearing.
5. new stern gland.
6. re-fit engine and check alignment.

And then...

Start on all the other stuff! Lol.

Cheers guys.
 
The timing chain cover is salt water leaking from the pump. As I suggested earlier, remove pump, clean up cover, etch prime and paint. Slightest weep from the hose connections causes the corrosion. Also worth changing the seals in the pump while you have it out.
 
Stop, stop, stop, I think you are looking for faults that may not exist never mind spending a shed load of money that isn't needed.

1. Stern gland more than 10 years old - unknown engine hours- + Non standard clip used + misalignment on stern tube.
Sorting out the missalignment may solve the problem, but do item 3 first.

2. Prop testing - one half of folding prop dezincified (dull sounding ring)
Odd that is is only one blade, have another look first as they are expensive so you need to be sure

3. Excessive wear on cutlass bearing.
Change it before you start item one, I paid £45 for the last one.

4. Paint corrosion on timing cover (worn out anode?)
Sort out leak and paint

5. Carbonization of exhaust manifold.
Clean up and fit with new gasket first.

6. Lack of raw water strainer.
See ASAP Supplies website

7. Calcification of raw water coolant route through head.
How do you know this? how about running the yacht in the water first to see. A head job can be done afloat if needed

I would be surprised if all of this needs doing right now and you might get some lucky breaks along the way rather than tearing the engine apart just in case. Its a new boat to you, there will be lots of other things that need your attention first like any leaks.

Pete
 
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IMG_0136.jpgIMG_0138.jpg

This is how I suspect the head waterways are blocked up. All that deposit came out from the hose and the pump deposits were really hard, deforming the impeller.

Some goods points raised though. How best to remove the old cutlass bearing?
 
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