Volvo Saildrive oil (again)

Crisby

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Confession time, on hearsay/poor advice instead of reading the manual I have filled my Volvo 120se saildrive with mineral oil instead of synthetic. My dilemma now is haul out for 30 mins to change it (has to be out of the water) at a cost of €400 where we are OR will we get away with 3 and a half months of light use until the next scheduled lift out?
Any advice gratefully received especially if it prevents any sleepless nights worrying!

Chris
 
According to VP's Oil and Grease specification chart the 120S-E uses a GL 5 SAE 75W- 90 gear oil . It does not specify a synthetic oil

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I'd suggest very light use only until you can change it if you have put engine oil in it.

The workshop manual for MS2 series gearboxes and 120S drives specifies a synthetic oil for the 120S-E

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Perhaps if he comes this way Vyv Cox will have something to add.
I'm surprised you found a GL-5, 75W-90 oil that is a mineral oil.

.
 
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Well chris you could help the situation a little by removing as much as you can out of the top and add the right oil ,
Then using it little as possible.
You can also ask volvspec in Suffolk for a suggestion.
If I remember correctly 120E saildrive is the one that use synthetic.
 
Thanks for the replies, just to clarify it is 80W90 mineral oil that I have put in instead of 75W90 synthetic.
Vic, I have managed to extract about 2 litres in the past ( that was when I was told I needed 80W90 mineral oil) but we recently hauled out for a few months and I thought I’d better change it all properly but still didn’t check the bloody manual!
My worry now would be mixing synthetic and mineral oil although I’m starting to think it had all sorts of oil mixed in there in the past......!
Chris
 
Thanks for the replies, just to clarify it is 80W90 mineral oil that I have put in instead of 75W90 synthetic.
Vic, I have managed to extract about 2 litres in the past ( that was when I was told I needed 80W90 mineral oil) but we recently hauled out for a few months and I thought I’d better change it all properly but still didn’t check the bloody manual!
My worry now would be mixing synthetic and mineral oil although I’m starting to think it had all sorts of oil mixed in there in the past......!
Chris
My understanding is that mineral and synthetic oils can be mixed but I don't know as much about this as I should. Take Vyv's advice if he responds.
The oil you used is a GL-5 though not a GL-4 ?
 
My Sail Drive, although being VP MS25-S, my Mechanic friend tells me it's got ZF internals, not VP.
Consequently it needs 75W90 Oil,
Apparently, VP made the MS25-S with 2 types of internals, which would explain why the manual states the MS25-S should use Engine Oil, for the Drive with VP Internals (I assume)
However, I'm unclear if this Sail Drive is a 120S or even a 130S.
 
My 120S has had 15W 40 since day one. I use the cheapest premium grade available in engine & drive. Volvo issued an update saying to use ATF but one of the engineers at Volspec suggested to carry on with what I was using. After nearly 5000 hours I seem to be Ok
 
Thanks for the replies, just to clarify it is 80W90 mineral oil that I have put in instead of 75W90 synthetic.
Vic, I have managed to extract about 2 litres in the past ( that was when I was told I needed 80W90 mineral oil) but we recently hauled out for a few months and I thought I’d better change it all properly but still didn’t check the bloody manual!
My worry now would be mixing synthetic and mineral oil although I’m starting to think it had all sorts of oil mixed in there in the past......!
Chris
Chris
The other years I was unfortunate to catch fishing line twice and had to replace my seals , both times.
The second time was just a few weeks after the first time , talking to volspec they basically said ,
the oil mix with water will be fine for a while as long as I don't work it hard,
Actually what he did say was some people run it with water in there until they come to change their oil and only them they realise its contaminated.

2 lts is not that far empty,
 
My 120S has had 15W 40 since day one. I use the cheapest premium grade available in engine & drive. Volvo issued an update saying to use ATF but one of the engineers at Volspec suggested to carry on with what I was using. After nearly 5000 hours I seem to be Ok
Chris has the 120E saildrive the onlye to use synthetic oil.

I think you maybe mistaken re ATF the 130s was issued with ATF from new then volvo a update saying to use 15/40
 
Chris
The other years I was unfortunate to catch fishing line twice and had to replace my seals , both times.
The second time was just a few weeks after the first time , talking to volspec they basically said ,
the oil mix with water will be fine for a while as long as I don't work it hard,
Actually what he did say was some people run it with water in there until they come to change their oil and only them they realise its contaminated.

2 lts is not that far empty,
Thanks Vic, I will get in touch with Volspec and see what they say, the general tone of replies on here suggest I was stupid but not critically stupid!
Chris
 
Chris
The other years I was unfortunate to catch fishing line twice and had to replace my seals , both times.
The second time was just a few weeks after the first time , talking to volspec they basically said ,
the oil mix with water will be fine for a while as long as I don't work it hard,
Actually what he did say was some people run it with water in there until they come to change their oil and only them they realise its contaminated.

2 lts is not that far empty,
I had water contamination in my saildrive & panicked. The boat was lifted in Cherbourg mid holiday & I expected an expensive seal change, as advised by the French engineer. It turned out that I had used a copper washer on the drain plug instead of the correct neoprene one. When I rang Volspec at Tolesbury they sussed it immediately. I drained the oil, used a washer from my Jabsco WC maintenance kit, as the locals did not have anything. Problem solved
 
The difference between a 120 (which uses 15w 440) and the SE is that the latter is used on the over 40hp engines hence the heavier grade oil. It is physically larger and has different internals. Although synthetic is not specified the oil Volvo sell is.

Personally I would use the boat - the drive is so over specified doubt it will make any difference.
 
There is quite a lot of confusion about the meaning of 'synthetic'. There are ester-based synthetic hydraulic oils used, for example, in mines because they are non-flammable. Early automotive synthetics contained a proportion of esters, which is why they attacked seals and gaskets. Most modern automotive synthetics are totally hydrocarbon based and can be used safely as alternatives to mineral.

Mixing is theoretically possible but additives, while unlikely to react with each other, may be diluted. This could be problematic where there is heavy EP loading, as for gearboxes and hypoid gears.
 
There is quite a lot of confusion about the meaning of 'synthetic'. There are ester-based synthetic hydraulic oils used, for example, in mines because they are non-flammable. Early automotive synthetics contained a proportion of esters, which is why they attacked seals and gaskets. Most modern automotive synthetics are totally hydrocarbon based and can be used safely as alternatives to mineral.

Mixing is theoretically possible but additives, while unlikely to react with each other, may be diluted. This could be problematic where there is heavy EP loading, as for gearboxes and hypoid gears.
Thanks for that vyv .
NOW for Chris and anyone else who in time might make the same mistake.
If it was you ,
Would you just use it for the time being , low use?

Drain out has much of the oil and fill with the right oil for the time being?

Haulout asap and change the oil ?

Or just find a bar, have a few cool beers and think about again to morrow ?
 
Thanks for that vyv .
NOW for Chris and anyone else who in time might make the same mistake.
If it was you ,
Would you just use it for the time being , low use?

Drain out has much of the oil and fill with the right oil for the time being?

Haulout asap and change the oil ?

Or just find a bar, have a few cool beers and think about again to morrow ?
I would just use it. The oil that has been filled has plenty of EP in it, I cannot see why synthetic base oil would make a huge difference. It has fabulous rheological properties that make a big difference for hydrodynamic lubrication but that doesn't exist in gears.
 
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