volvo saildrive bearing housing sealant

K

Kerenza

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www.24bit.ltd.uk
Hi all,
Could someone suggest a suitable sealant for the joint between the bearing housing and the saildrive body please?

Just replaced oil / water seals and ready to reassemble, but volvo original white sealant, (permatex?) which had set hard, had got onto the first large o ring and its groove and made it difficult to extract. - Or is that intentional?

Replacement seems to be either loctite Aviation Gasket Sealant or loctite flange sealant.

Thanks
M
 
If you mean the section where the housing assembly pushes into the bottom of the saildrive leg and seals against the inside of the leg with two large rubber O-rings each about 3 inches in diameter, then why are you applying any sealant? :confused:

I've never applied sealent to my Yanmar saildrives as the O-rings should provide the necessary seal. If the surfaces are so badly corroded that the O-rings will not seal I could imagine some sealant being helpful. Does the manual recommend using a sealant?

Richard
 
Yes, its advised. Volvo certainly used some when they built it.
M

(Yes I know volvo probably didnt get anywhere near it, but you know what I mean.)
 
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RichardS said:
If you mean ............................

Richard
Click to expand...

parts #24 I imagine.

Id agree with you not to use a jointing compound. It might just as well be a flat joint if a compound is used. I would probably use a smear of silicone grease on the O rings


6738.jpg
 
I'm amazed that a common job like this hasn't been mentioned more often. There was a thread some years ago which didn't get to the bottom of the sealant issue either. What are people doing - just ignoring it?
I have found one reference which mentions part no.1161099-5 as an alternative to permatex no3., which isn't white like my original.

M

edit - As were getting a bit specific, it's a 130s in question.
 
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Kerenza said:
I'm amazed that a common job like this hasn't been mentioned more often. There was a thread some years ago which didn't get to the bottom of the sealant issue either. What are people doing - just ignoring it?
I have found one reference which mentions part no.1161099-5 as an alternative to permatex no3., which isn't white like my original.

M

edit - As were getting a bit specific, it's a 130s in question.
Click to expand...

The only mention of sealant in the Yanmar SD20 manual is a general reference to applying sealant only if needed to prevent ingress of water.

Richard
 
RichardS said:
The only mention of sealant in the Yanmar SD20 manual is a general reference to applying sealant only if needed to prevent ingress of water.

Richard
Click to expand...

The VP manual on the other hand says

Apply sealant, Volvo Penta part no. 1161231-4, to the mating face between the bearing housing and the drive.​

I guess therefore that its question of identifying an equivalent sealant.

Which is Permatex 81173 :triumphant:
 
VicS said:
The VP manual on the other hand says

Apply sealant, Volvo Penta part no. 1161231-4, to the mating face between the bearing housing and the drive.​

I guess therefore that its question of identifying an equivalent sealant.

Which is Permatex 81173 :triumphant:
Click to expand...

But it only goes on the mating faces, not on the O rings
 
Which is Permatex 81173
Thanks, That's as far as I got, but it's certainly not the original, which is more like a hard setting plumbers maite.
Will it be up to the oil one side and water the other?
Loctite 5699 perhaps?
M
 
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I am in the middle of doing a hull seal and lower shaft seal replacement. Permatex was used on the paper gasket between the leg and gearbox which is split to fit the neoprene hull ring, Loctite non setting gasket sealant would do the job, lots of people use grease and after buying and using the Permatex (came from Latvia via Ebay) I am content that grease would have been fine. It is to keep the gasket in position, (make sure that the gasket is print side up) Permatex is not mentioned on more recent instructions.
The bearing housing on the prop shaft has two neoprene sealing rings, which should be replaced when replacing the seals, I bought the rings, seals and hull kit from Keypart, bit of discount and free delivery. They can also supply Loctite for the gasket.
When mating the gearbox to the engine, a couple of temporary studs in the bolt holes act as a guide to keep the shaft in line while you turn the engine to rotate and mate the splines.
There was no sealant on the mating faces of the lower bearing housing and I found no instruction to use any on the 120SD but advice to renew the rings, no leaks either. With two rings the seal should be fine though I suppose a sealant can not do much harm. The shaft seals would seem to be a much more likely source of leaks?
 
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Thanks to all who took time to reply.
There seems to be two camps - one who use nothing, despite the manual instruction and the other which think it doesn't really matter.
I'm going to go for heldite, tried and trusted, despite obviously not being as built..

M
 
I have the official VP workshop manual for the 130S saildrive.
It says (on p76)

"Install new O-rings on the propeller bearing housing.Grease the seal rings and the O-rings liberally with
grease, VP part no. 828250.
Put the propeller bearing housing in place. Be careful
to ensure that the splines do not scratch the seal
rings.
Tighten the screws. Torque 28 Nm."

No sealer!
 
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Plevier said:
I have the official VP workshop manual for the 130S saildrive.
It says (on p76)

"Install new O-rings on the propeller bearing housing.Grease the seal rings and the O-rings liberally with
grease, VP part no. 828250.
Put the propeller bearing housing in place. Be careful
to ensure that the splines do not scratch the seal
rings.
Tighten the screws. Torque 28 Nm."

No sealer!
Click to expand...

hmm,
Apply some grease to the seal rings, Volvo Penta
part no. 828250-1.
Tightening torque: 30 Nm (22.13 lbf ft).

During final assembly:
Apply sealant, Volvo Penta part no. 1161231-4, to the
mating face between the bearing housing and the
drive.
Apply thread locking fluid, Volvo Penta part no.
1161231-4, to the screws and install the bearing housing
on the drive.

In mine.

M
 
That's black silicone adhesive/sealer
http://www.yachtboatparts.com/volvo-penta-1161231-black-silicone-adhesive-7881-p.asp

You have given same number for the threadlock..?

If you have an official workshop manual giving you the answer, I don't understand why the question to start with? My manual covers the 130 and 150, on the front it says A 2(0), presumably the edition, and date on back page is 03-2005. (It's not actually printed it's a pdf). Is yours later?

That sealant is not mentioned in the list of materials to be used.
 
It's the oil seal bearing housing at the foot were talking about, not the water seal at the top.
The original question was what did the manufacturer use which was white and set hard, which is not a black silicone.

M
 
Kerenza said:
It's the oil seal bearing housing at the foot were talking about, not the water seal at the top.
The original question was what did the manufacturer use which was white and set hard, which is not a black silicone.

M
Click to expand...

If I may suggest, if you haven't found the answer here , you could contact Volvo spec and ask them,
 
Kerenza said:
It's the oil seal bearing housing at the foot were talking about, not the water seal at the top.
The original question was what did the manufacturer use which was white and set hard, which is not a black silicone.

M
Click to expand...

Oh. No sealant there. Just silicone grease on the o-ring and make sure the grooves are clean and free of any nicks and dents. O-rings and sealants don't go together. Are you sure it was sealant and not just calcium deposits? They would match your description of white, hard-set sealant too. Or the housing was previously serviced by someone else who had their own ideas about servicing saildrives? :)

If you do want to add something for some reason (i.e. there are nicks and dents in the o-ring groove), use a liquid gasket between the outer edge of the housing and the body as well as around the bolt holes, but just a tiny bit and nowhere near the o-ring. That'd keep the seawater and related calcium deposits away, but it's normally completely unnecessary, as the o-ring keeps it out of the insides anyways and you risk getting goop on something it doesn't belong on during assembly.
 
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