Volvo Penta MD22 parts

[Heckler]

I have posted before about Maestro and Montego parts fitting our engines, basically the Perkins Prima. Now that they are getting scarce, so are spares.
I am rebuilding a simple block and head from a Maestro Turbo diesel.
Finding parts is getting difficult, however, these people
http://www.parts4engines.com/?fullSite=1
are extending their range of spares for all sorts of Perkins. I had bought a cheap head gasket set off Ebay. Mistake, they are not very well made and the valve stem seals that come with it are the cheaper older type, not used on our engines. The top hat seals, as they are called, that are used in our engine are almost unobtainable now. However parts4engines have had manufactured a head gasket set which includes both types of valve stem seals as std plus the gaskets are "proper" They are only charging £33 for this set, if you can find the top hat seals they cost £4.50 each, so the set is a bargain. I would argue that if you have a boat with an MD22 and you are going to keep it, then buying a head gasket set is a sensible investment!
They have big end bearings for £16 a set and all sorts of other spares.
The guy running it is a yottie so understands our needs.
S

 

[Heckler]

I have posted before about Maestro and Montego parts fitting our engines, basically the Perkins Prima. Now that they are getting scarce, so are spares.
I am rebuilding a simple block and head from a Maestro Turbo diesel.
Finding parts is getting difficult, however, these people
http://www.parts4engines.com/?fullSite=1
are extending their range of spares for all sorts of Perkins. I had bought a cheap head gasket set off Ebay. Mistake, they are not very well made and the valve stem seals that come with it are the cheaper older type, not used on our engines. The top hat seals, as they are called, that are used in our engine are almost unobtainable now. However parts4engines have had manufactured a head gasket set which includes both types of valve stem seals as std plus the gaskets are "proper" They are only charging £33 for this set, if you can find the top hat seals they cost £4.50 each, so the set is a bargain. I would argue that if you have a boat with an MD22 and you are going to keep it, then buying a head gasket set is a sensible investment!
They have big end bearings for £16 a set and all sorts of other spares.
The guy running it is a yottie so understands our needs.
S

The seals arrived yesterday along with some core plugs. There were a couple of rusty ones in the block. I knocked them out and was surprised how thin they had got. This was from damp lie ing in the hollow. I read on line, on one of the Maestro forums, that people get leaks in the cooling system and just top up with fresh water. This then attacks the core plugs from the inside but more importantly it attacks the head gasket joint between the alloy head and the cast iron block! The alloy is then eaten away, the head gasket goes and the head is ruined. So if anyone loses coolant and only tops up with fresh water and no antifreeze they may be storing up problems!
The engine I have bought is in really good condition with no wear on the cylinders or crank.
S

 

[NormanS]

Mine is from 1992, and apart from the hicup that I had with the water pump, is doing well. (Fingers crossed and touching wood). I think if anything major happened now, I would re-engine. Mind you, when I sold my last boat, her old Gardner was still running sweetly after 50 years.

 

[Heckler]

Mine is from 1992, and apart from the hicup that I had with the water pump, is doing well. (Fingers crossed and touching wood). I think if anything major happened now, I would re-engine. Mind you, when I sold my last boat, her old Gardner was still running sweetly after 50 years.

Ive been lucky, dropped on this low mileage car engine, all stripped and cleaned now. Going to put back together with new rings and big end shells but keep the head off. Was lucky, the injectors are the same as ours. Bottom line, will have cost me about £250 by the time am finished. It can sit greased up in the garage. If the old one goes tits up then I am happy to swop it out. Cheaper than a new one! And content that the spare is good for another twenty years!
If I sell the boat without swopping, then I will more than get my money back from someone who wants a block, head or injectors.
Stu

 

[Richard10002]

The seals arrived yesterday along with some core plugs. There were a couple of rusty ones in the block. I knocked them out and was surprised how thin they had got. This was from damp lie ing in the hollow. I read on line, on one of the Maestro forums, that people get leaks in the cooling system and just top up with fresh water. This then attacks the core plugs from the inside but more importantly it attacks the head gasket joint between the alloy head and the cast iron block! The alloy is then eaten away, the head gasket goes and the head is ruined. So if anyone loses coolant and only tops up with fresh water and no antifreeze they may be storing up problems!
The engine I have bought is in really good condition with no wear on the cylinders or crank.
S

A prime example of not using coolant!

http://www.sigasiga.co.uk/2015/01/13/conclusion-of-the-half-hour-job/

This is my old boat Rogue, now called Sigasiga, in The Carribbean, (or maybe The Pacific now.

You definitely need antifreeze, even in climates where nothing could ever come close to freezing!

 

[Heckler]

A prime example of not using coolant!

http://www.sigasiga.co.uk/2015/01/13/conclusion-of-the-half-hour-job/

This is my old boat Rogue, now called Sigasiga, in The Carribbean, (or maybe The Pacific now.

You definitely need antifreeze, even in climates where nothing could ever come close to freezing!

I hate to think how much that brand new head etc cost! I can understand the struggle with the head bolts, mine were feckin tight! The engine was on its side, I have a 2 foot breaker bar and it took my 15 stone bouncing on it to start the bolts! The recommendation for the torque to tighten them is 100nm or 74 ftlbs PLUS. a qurter of a turn!
But quite right, antifreeze isnt just for freezing it contains anticorrosion products too?
Stu

 

[RichardS]

The engine was on its side, I have a 2 foot breaker bar and it took my 15 stone bouncing on it to start the bolts! The recommendation for the torque to tighten them is 100nm or 74 ftlbs PLUS. a quarter of a turn!

Stu

I replaced the wheel bearings on a Suzuki a few weeks ago and the bearing nut was 220Nm which seemed very tight. A few weeks later I needed to change the same bearing on a Jaguar and this time the bearing was 320Nm. That one needed so many special tools I took it to the dealer. There were both just torque settings.

Using a high torque setting plus a set turn amount seems very strange. I wonder why they don't simply set a higher torque as that would be more precise, surely?

Richard

 

[NickRobinson]

I replaced the wheel bearings on a Suzuki a few weeks ago and the bearing nut was 220Nm which seemed very tight. A few weeks later I needed to change the same bearing on a Jaguar and this time the bearing was 320Nm. That one needed so many special tools I took it to the dealer. There were both just torque settings.

Using a high torque setting plus a set turn amount seems very strange. I wonder why they don't simply set a higher torque as that would be more precise, surely?


Richard

Sound like stretch bolts- tightened to the yield point. No help to owners as new ones needed every time but simplifies manufacture. I have a 4'x1.5" square tube to which I weld on new sockets when needed to sort different wheel bearings. Three on it now..

 

[Heckler]

Sound like stretch bolts- tightened to the yield point. No help to owners as new ones needed every time but simplifies manufacture. I have a 4'x1.5" square tube to which I weld on new sockets when needed to sort different wheel bearings. Three on it now..

Interestingly VP in their manual say that you need to put a centre pop mark on the head of the bolt every time it is tightened, after 4 they must be scrapped.
S